April 25, 2004

國家公園邊境的溫泉鎮Matlock

  m10.jpg    m11.jpg


............老先生指了小鎮後方的方向,並說明在城堡荒廢之前,這是個動物園,現在並不對外開放。
我們沿路走去,發現一個奇怪的現象,家家戶戶的門窗上、車窗上、電線桿上,
Land Rover車身後的備胎上,都貼著一張醒目的白底綠字標語,小張但強而有力的述說著「Keep Riber Rural」,
這個寧靜的小村落到底發生什麼事呢?...............

Matlock,位於山峰國家公園(Peak District National Park)西南邊界外圍的城鎮,維多利亞時期在小鎮南方發展出了一個度假勝地Matlock Bath,一個著名的溫泉小鎮,這個地區為River Derwnet所流經,切割出兩側聳直的峭壁。

台灣味的風景區
火車站旁,有登山纜車直通西側峭壁上的亞伯拉罕高地(The Heights of Abraham),為了省下昂貴的纜車票,我們決定步行上山,沿途欣賞精心佈置的住家與花園,也是另一種享受,總會不經意說出「怎麼會跟有鎖街差這麼多呢?」。

走到半山腰才發現,步道被一面新穎的大門阻隔,門前還設置了一個賣票亭,走路進入這個高地上的園區還得另行付費,穿過大門後,沿途景緻越來越像台灣的水泥化森林遊樂區,可是風景又沒有溪頭、杉林溪美,過多的人工設施實在有點無味。還好天氣彌補了心中一點點的不平衡,讓我們站在制高點上,可以俯瞰整個Matlock城區,制高點是一個維多利亞時期的高塔,12.2公尺、52個階梯,視野倒是很不錯。

這裡應該是國家公園管轄地之外,所以有這樣的高度人為發展,又是纜車、又是收費高昂的遊憩區、又是高密度的城鎮。草草參觀之後,決定去找尋東側峭壁上的High Tor與Riber Castle。詢問了停車場旁Wildlife Trust 的老夫婦,依照他們的指示,開車往Lea的方向前進。

消失的古堡
車子在山谷中、山腰上繞了大半圈,就是看不到位在山頂的城堡,真是怪事,結果在往Matlock的主要路上回頭一望,它隱匿樹林後方。這段找路的過程中,田園風光在和煦的光線下,顯得特別的美,也因為這個季節,植物特別有生命力。沿著往Riber Village的指示,來到一個精緻、寧靜、小巧的迷你小鎮,在一棟1633年的宅邸前,又問了一對健行的老夫妻,城堡到底位在何方?

老先生指了小鎮後方的方向,並說明在城堡荒廢之前,這是個動物園,現在並不對外開放。我們沿路走去,發現一個奇怪的現象,家家戶戶的門窗上、車窗上、電線桿上,連Land Rover車身後的備胎上,都貼著一張醒目的白底綠字標語,小張但強而有力的述說著「Keep Riber Rural」,這個寧靜的小村落到底發生什麼事呢?

「Keep Riber Rural」???
穿越綠色走廊來到城堡門口,大門深鎖,裡面還用兩顆巨石阻擋,四周圍也以粗陋的鐵網隔離,門後立著一塊大型廣告看板,寫著「18.5英畝的土地與建物出租、出售,可以使用為展覽場、室內外運動場、音樂會、嘉年華會、多功能休閒設施、夜總會、劇院、酒吧、餐廳、露營地、賽狗、賽馬、高爾夫球練習場、零售商店……」。但是,最下方聯絡人的姓名與電話,被人用紅色的油漆給塗掉了。

看到這面廣告看板,稍微解答了標語「Keep Riber Rural」的困惑。我們繼續沿著城堡周圍的步道前進,發現一處遭人破壞的鐵網,狐疑的進去瞧瞧。破敗的城堡,簡直是一棟巨型危樓,很難想像這怎麼曾經是個動物園,一行人妄加的揣測城堡的歷史,一個領地、一個公爵、一個伯爵、一棟鬼屋,最後連一個「連」的士兵都出現了。

這處城堡廢墟,沒有其他受English Heritage保護的那些遺址一樣幸運,任其敗壞,散發出一股陰森、髒亂、危險、頹圮的景象,第一次看到英國人,放著這樣的史蹟不顧,或許這棟城堡年代不夠久遠吧?這裡同樣是個制高點,可以從另一個角度欣賞Matlock的全景,附近的牧場周圍,也規劃了多條的健行步道,是個極舒服的健行環境。

村子裡的每戶住家,全都精心妝點自己,可以一眼看出他們的生活品味,高品質的石造建築、優雅的英式花園、名車、在古井上睡午覺的黑貓、在院子裡玩耍的小狗、午后悠閒看書喝下午茶的主人,這一切似乎完美到太不真實。有一戶人家,在門前圍牆上鑲了一塊甜甜圈狀的石塊,上面刻著「Hermitage」,象徵「隱士的居處或生活」。

穿過小鎮,來到城堡的另一個出入口,門口正前方的牧場上,停了一只貨櫃,上面斗大的標語仍舊寫著「Keep Riber Rural」。很少看到溫和的英國人會用如此強烈的字眼與行動,表示她們的反抗,尤其在這麼寧靜的小村落,這樣的字眼顯得特別刺眼。城堡的入口一樣有一個招商的廣告看板,下方的聯絡人一樣被紅色噴漆塗掉。

小村落、大反撲
這樣一個小小村落,想要用自己微薄的力量,試圖抵禦外來的商業開發,讓我很想近一步了解這個小村莊的故事。回家後馬上依著標語上的網址,找到一些蛛絲馬跡。

原來,Riber是一個只有19戶住家的小村莊,她們正極力抵抗所面對的大規模興建計畫,想要保留此刻所擁有的美麗與寧靜之鄉間氛圍,為了家園,19戶住家團結一致對外發聲。Riber的人強烈的說「我們有個美麗的家園,視野極佳的山頂全景,還有一個城堡,廢墟的城堡應該被保留,永遠成為Matlock的地標,我們希望保有這一切優雅的環境,給我們自己,也給外來的訪者。」

興建於西元1868年的Riber城堡,在2000年的夏天,以七十萬英鎊的價格賣給開發者,買主堅稱他們會傾向保存城堡來做未來的開發計畫;結果,2001年的一項大規模開發計畫出爐,嚇壞了當地居民,也激怒了寧靜的小村。

這項開發計畫是一個大於現在村落規模近三倍的興建計畫,準備興建46戶獨棟住宅,居民擔心,如果再住進46戶的家庭,這個村子是否消化的了;例如馬上會碰到的交通問題,空氣污染問題,狹小的產業道路因此得破壞原貌拓寬,才足夠應付這些私家轎車的進出。

為了家園的居住品質,她們堅持拒絕開發,這樣的例子,在台灣應該不可能發生。如果有建商或財團想在你家附近蓋房子、興建休閒度假中心,相信多數人一定會張開雙手歡迎,因為建設的迷思就是能帶動商業繁榮,接著地價、房價就會跟著水漲船高,其實在地人能獲得多少利益、損失多少自己的生活品質,根本不自覺。

例如花蓮在這幾年的大舉開發,大規模的海洋世界、休閒度假中心,帶來的只是人潮、車潮,然後是比直拓寬的台九線、台十一線,花蓮真正的美還是沒被欣賞,利益只是進了外來財團的口袋,當地人可以獲得什麼,我不清楚,或許只剩污染、吵雜與破壞吧!前幾年吵得火熱的澎湖賭場,如果讓澎湖人辦一個公投,我想大多數人一定也說「Yes」。

或許生活條件不盡相同,英國是個富足的社會,人民有好的生活條件,然後才會要求更好的生活品質,因此,可以大聲的說「我們拒絕開發」。這當中還有太多的社會條件不是我們可以拿來相互比較,但是,至少這是一個我們可以借鏡的例子。我也由衷希望她們的訴求最後可以成功,讓世上留下一個依舊美麗而安靜的角落。

Riber Village抗爭網址:www.ribervillage.co.uk

由 mrs.turtle 發表於 April 25, 2004 05:39 PM
迴響

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jianbin1123 發表於 November 23, 2017 05:37 PM

太不好看了.............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................騙你的

阿阿阿阿阿 發表於 March 21, 2005 01:11 PM

Fox
謝謝你的提醒
還真不知道這照片被我"漏勾"了
沒有把之前的連結給改過來
現在可以看到了喔
只是之前的照片版面太小
請見諒

這是我去年此時的回憶
又一年.......

turtle 發表於 March 18, 2005 02:13 PM

雖然照片連結已經不見了
但是仍能想像出當地的美
希望當地居民的抗爭順利

發表於 March 18, 2005 03:12 AM

阿姐
你的文章刊在綠灣新聞台上
至今已經有三個人回應說
很感動呢
加油加油

liata 發表於 April 28, 2004 07:07 AM

阿姐
原來英國人寫抗議牌也會這個調調
灰灰墨綠墨綠的
跟附近景觀有搭配呢

我要把你這篇轉貼到個人新聞台綠灣上面
就是幾個報紙的環保記者和NGO的人共組的板上
http://mypaper1.ttimes.com.tw/user/greenbaytw/

liata 發表於 April 26, 2004 05:52 AM
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