April 29, 2004

工人渡假勝地Scarborough

Panoramaic-view-of-Scarboro.jpg


......小鎮由突出的海岬一分為二,勾勒出一南一北各一灣美麗的沙灘,舊城區位在南岸海濱,
從高處遠眺,陽光、藍天、沙灘、遊人、城堡,倒是一幅絕美景象......

工人渡假勝地Scarborough

北約克郡靠海的城鎮,Scarborough,據稱是英國第一個發展出來的渡假區,源自工業革命時期。在維多利亞女王時代,有「溫泉鄉之后」的雅稱,二次大戰之後,成了英格蘭工人階級的渡假勝地,遊憩發展的歷史已經超過360年,的確是個古老的國家,就連遊憩區的歷史都是用幾百年來計算的。

自吹自擂的英國人

不過,在英國待得越久,對書上這些敘述持保留態度,英國人總是稱自己的城堡、教堂、購物中心、博物館……是全世界最好、全歐洲最大、全英國最美、最古老……,不然,至少也有One of the greatest….in the World,不管什麼都冠上一個「最」字。初抵英國時,每次看到這樣的敘述,總是信以為真,懷著崇拜的心情,後來漸漸發現,實有「澎風」之嫌。

BBC有個著名的電視喜劇「Little Britain」,劇情是諷刺英國人及英國社會中的一些奇特現象,就連電視劇名稱也要揶揄自己的國號「Great Britain」,其中有一幕,導遊在遊覽車上沿途解說,「這是全英國最古老的教堂,這是全英國最美麗的花園,這是全歐洲最棒的博物館……」,他們也知道自己的毛病啊!

花東海岸的消波塊?

小鎮由突出的海岬一分為二,勾勒出一南一北各一灣美麗的沙灘,舊城區位在南岸海濱,從高處遠眺,陽光、藍天、沙灘、遊人、城堡,倒是一幅絕美景象。我們往山上的教堂與城堡的方向走去,聖瑪麗教堂興建於西元1180年,教堂周圍的墓園有英國著名作家「Anne Bronte」之墓,年輕的Anne從Haworth來此拜訪,受了海濱的風寒,一病不起,幾天之後就去世了,因此葬在此地的墓園中,而沒有在故鄉Haworth與她的家族同葬。

墓園旁的三柱古老殘垣,述說著歲月的故事,教堂旁圍著一大圈墓園,墓園旁鄰著住家,墓園之於他們,就像是一處平常的公園綠地,老人坐在墓旁的休閒椅上,安靜地凝視著眼前一塊塊古老墓碑,很好奇,他們心裡正想著什麼?

從墓園穿過住宅區,來到山岬的北端,北灣也是美麗的彎月型海岸,公路沿著海岸而行,陸地這一側蓋起一棟棟新穎的住宅群,為了免除海浪對岸邊的日夜侵蝕,竟在海岸線上填起一塊塊的消坡塊,原來,花蓮變調的海岸線也移植到這裡來了,人類總是以自己的利益為最高指導原則。

「兔唇」自治區

沿著步道來到海岬頂端的城堡,興建於12世紀的城堡,仍保留了壯觀的城牆,青銅器時代、鐵器時代的考古物說明了這一代發展的歷史,之後又歷經了羅馬人、薩克遜人、諾曼人,以及維京人,一直延續到現在。關於Scarborough地名的由來,源於維京人給這塊區域的綽號Scardi,意思是「兔唇」harelip,形容這裡的南北海岸線像是兔子的嘴型,後面再加上英國許多地名後面都有的borough「自治區」,還真有想像力。

城堡與城牆目前由English Heritage所管轄,居高臨下的戰略位置,提供了遊人極佳的鳥瞰視野,北海、港口、海灘、舊城區、新城區全都一覽無疑,沿著規劃良好的階梯步道,一步步往海濱的舊城區前進,住家就在步道旁,老太太正準備帶著她的狗,出門購物去,很生活化的場景。整個城鎮沿著地勢而有高低錯落,紅瓦斜屋頂、一根根正冒著暖暖白煙的煙囪,吸引海鷗停靠取暖,牠們也會受不了刺骨的海風嗎?

宛若墾丁的舊城區

因為發展的早,甚至已經發展過了頭,舊城區林立的紀念品店、餐廳、小販、遊樂場、賭場、大小旅館,竟然還有詭異的小型摩天輪,好像來到南台灣墾丁失序的街上,雜亂無章的感覺。但是多少可以嗅出此地曾經蓬勃發展的盛況,海濱距城區只有短短的五十公尺吧,雖是有極陡峭的坡度差,還不至於需要設立上下通行的纜車吧,但是,就是有兩座多此一舉的纜車,現在仍在運轉中。

港口停泊的大小船隻,各有著自己可愛的名號,像是「海豚」、「海豹」、「青蛙」等等,其中一艘最引人側目的是「Who Cares」,這船長還真幽默。不像我們的船隻,總是用一些八股的名稱「順天號」、「成功號」、「廣興號」,不過呢,民族性不同,我們的漁船訴求風調雨順、財源廣進,她們這些船隻大概只是來消遣娛樂用的吧。

一連走訪了北約克郡的兩個海濱小鎮,論城鎮尺度,論環境氣氛,還是推薦Whitby小漁村,如果只能擇一。

由 mrs.turtle 發表於 April 29, 2004 10:53 PM
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chenshuizhe 發表於 August 12, 2014 02:42 PM

發展過度的海邊小鎮
就失去他的自然美了
可惜阿!~~

發表於 March 18, 2005 03:24 AM

工人渡假勝地Scarborough

這篇的照片是不是兩張接起來的啊
那個海浪怪怪的喔!
用Canon最高等級的Patrick是不是啊!

David 發表於 July 17, 2004 05:19 PM

姊姊和幾乎
繼上次的keep rural篇廣受歡迎後
我又把這篇貼到PChome新聞台上啦
兩位加油啊
繼續寫寫寫

他妹昨天告別式
弄到今天凌晨一點才到家
非常累
呆會再來寫

liata 發表於 May 3, 2004 03:25 AM
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