May 08, 2004

波西米亞流浪記【4】:布拉格左岸

04-10.jpg    04-02.jpg


....................布拉格,處處是景,著名景點不多說,都市角落的小景才是我們的最愛,
街燈、招牌、門牌、路牌、商店櫥窗、鑲在建築物上的房屋識別、紀念人像、藝術雕像,
更可以表現出這個城市的性格....................

百塔之城

原來只是快步經過舊城區,欲前往布拉格的左岸城堡區。天氣實在好,忍不住想爬上舊城廣場的高塔,從上俯瞰整個城區,看看何謂「百塔之城」The city of hundred spires。穿越天文鐘旁的「i」裡面,繞上三樓的售票處,非常平易近人的票價,登塔只要30克朗,這如果在英國,少說也要£3。

塔樓的內部已經過全面整修,與舊塔結構融合的很恰當,鋼構的斜坡道繞著塔內部周圍而上,中間包圍著一部電梯,今天剛好維修停擺,所以我們步行上塔,趁此機會仔細觀賞塔樓的內部結構,隨著樓層的升高,還能觀看樓外的風景變化。

塔頂有玻璃的室內空間,外面圍繞著狹窄的觀景廊道,室內坐著一位胸前別著工作證、腿上抱著一個大包包的肥胖老女人,看起來很怪異,她的工作到底是什麼呢?我們停留的時間裡,她動也不動的一直坐在她的位子上。

塔上的視野果然是另一番景象,遠從整個布拉格城優雅的天際線,拉近到廣場周圍的巷弄,塔樓下的觀光客像螞蟻雄兵一般鑽動著,廣場上的街頭藝人、馬車、露天咖啡座全都在脚底下,很難想像,眼前這座美麗的百塔之城,曾經是個共黨統治的城市。

攝影天堂

一直走不到城堡區,總是被沿街的商店、藝人、街景牽絆,攝影也在我們旅途中佔了不少時間,也唯有仔細的獵取鏡頭,城市的每個角落才能深刻的印在我們腦海之中。布拉格,處處是景,著名景點不多說,都市角落的小景才是我們的最愛,街燈、招牌、門牌、路牌、商店櫥窗、鑲在建築物上的房屋識別、紀念人像、藝術雕像,更可以表現出這個城市的性格。P的底片一捲一捲換,我的記憶卡也一張一張換。

I’ll be back

終於左推右擠的甩開查理士橋上的洶湧人群與賣藝品的攤販,也在人潮中摸到了橋上一座傳說中的雕像,據說只要摸過它,有朝一日,你必定會再回來這個迷人的城市,這座已經氧化成黑色的銅製雕像,竟已經被世界各地慕名而來的人,給摸成了金光閃閃、油油亮亮的表面。

Mala Strana

來到左岸的Mala Strana區,橋頭這一側有位街頭藝人,手舞足蹈的敲打各種拼裝樂器,唱著披頭四的名曲,圍觀的群眾也跟著亨亨唱唱,好不熱鬧!這些街頭藝人賣力辛苦的表演,為博得觀眾的掌聲以及微薄的零錢,雖然臉上堆滿著笑容,但這種討生活的方式,每次總給我漂泊滄桑的感覺。

Mala Strana這一帶是使館區,很多建築物飄揚著該國的國旗,街道乾淨整齊,到處都裝有CCTV,人群也不似舊城區擁擠,逛起來極舒服。這一區每一家店的門面與招牌同樣都是精心設計。主要街道一路緩緩而上,走到盡頭就是城堡區,轉進入口處前,整個布拉格城區與河流已經在脚底下,跟剛剛舊城高塔上的景緻一比,又是另一番景象。

高貴不貴

城堡前二位象徵性站崗的士兵,成了大批觀光客拍照的目標。一路走進去,偌大的城堡區,如果你只想參觀建築物的外觀及皇家花園,她們張開雙手歡迎你,一切免費,多大方的國家,不像視錢如命的英國人,參觀一個公爵宅邸的花園,少說也得付個4鎊吧,如果要進內部參觀,8鎊是跑不掉的。

雄偉的St. Vitus哥德式教堂,一樣是免費參觀,只有地窖及詩班席須另外付費參觀,每天這麼龐大的觀光客進進出出,她們倚靠什麼經費來維護整個教堂呢?應該派人來考察一下英國的觀光業,一定可以為國家帶來一筆豐厚的收入。

黃金巷

城堡是舊城之外另一個著名的景點,世界各國的旅行團一團一團蜂湧進來,實在可怕。走過舊皇宮、修道院,來到城堡區盡頭的「黃金巷(Zlatá ulicka)」,一整排低矮的二層樓房子,每一間外牆都漆成不同的顏色,每一家都改裝成與布拉格有某種關聯的紀念品店,這24間小房子與城堡內其他雄偉的教堂或宮殿比起來,簡直像是給24個小矮人住的房子。

16世紀初,這是給國王Rudolf二世的24名守衛居住的房子,17世紀改為金匠的住所,19世紀演變為城堡的貧民窟,吸引了貧窮的藝術家與手工藝匠來此居住,20世紀更有著名的德文作家卡夫卡(No.22)與另一名曾經得過諾貝爾獎的詩人作家居住在此。

這麼狹小的巷弄,這麼多的故事發生,匯集了幾個世紀的能量,也吸引了無數的遊客,這實在是個需要總量管制的場所,一波一波的遊客,實在無法讓人仔細欣賞。書上說你應該選擇黃昏時刻來此,才有可能看到它本來的容貌,現在已經夕陽西下,仍舊是滿滿的人潮。

黃昏的布拉格,雖沒有夕照的瑰麗色彩陪襯,但是至高點的視野與極高的能見度,可以清楚看見布拉格真是個不折不扣的盆地,四周有稍微高起的山形圍繞,我們在城堡眺望台上,一一辨識我們走過的景點,最後在城堡下方的「萊卡藝廊Leica Gallery」結束了今天的行程,明天即將暫別布拉格的喧囂,前往近郊的UNESCO小鎮換換口味。

由 mrs.turtle 發表於 May 8, 2004 12:14 AM
迴響

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