May 09, 2004

波西米亞流浪記【5】:Kutná Hora

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...........具有歷史感的建築與室內裝潢,興建時經過人工慢慢精雕細琢,之後再經過幾百年的歲月風華,就是有一種說不出來的美,幾乎是講求快速的現代建築所無法相提並論的,難道現代人真的沒有前人的細緻與美感嗎?..............

離開布拉格,搭上火車前往UNESCO指定保存的小鎮「Kutná Hora」。氣氛有點詭譎的布拉格中央車站,昏昏暗暗的室內空間,出入份子也複雜,容易讓人產生強烈的不安全感,還是趕緊買了票,先上車再說。

共黨列車

外觀看來不很高級的車廂,內部竟全是包廂式的座位,紅色的皮椅加上有一點歷史的內部陳設,原以為可以享受包廂的安靜空間,發車前,竟上來一大群剛參加完嘉年華會或表演活動的年輕學生,各個穿著戲服、手持刀劍盾牌,年紀有大有小,一個小小的包廂裡,硬是擠進來七、八個人,臭氣沖天,還熱絡的玩起捷克的紙牌,壞了我們這趟一個小時的安靜旅程。

列車出了布拉格,景象變得殘破、貧窮,與市中心金碧輝煌的美麗建築無法聯想成一個相同的國家,倒比較符合我心目中共黨國家的味道。房子、車子破舊不堪,這國家的貧富差距一定很可觀,同樣是美麗景緻的高原,波西米亞高原卻沒有德國南部巴伐利亞高原那種富庶的鄉村景觀。

列車長來查票時,同車的這群年輕人沒有買票,還想曚混過去,說車票在別的車廂,20分鐘後,列車長又來一次,在我們下車前,還是收不到錢,最後不知道怎麼解決的。

荒蕪的Sedlec

火車在Kutná Hora Main Station停靠,另一個月台上有一節古老的柴油動力車廂,等著轉接旅客進入四公里外的市中心小車站。破舊荒蕪沒人煙的火車站,兩輛計程車一直目視著這兩個沒搭上火車、也沒搭上公車的旅客。直到我們決定步行前往900公尺外的小聚落「Sedlec」之後,計程車才不情願的離去。

不知是否因為星期假日,沿路沒遇上半個人影,也沒有清楚的指示,依著自己的第六感往前走。更破舊的共黨時期公寓與住宅,只有在古早的黑白電影裡才看得到的舊型Skoda「銅管仔」車,約20到30年的歷史,數量還不少。在布拉格時,我們還以為捷克人都開德國名車或最新型的Skoda國產車呢。

人骨教堂

Sedlec,一個很小的聚落,一座十八世紀的大教堂,是村子裡的醒目地標,現在已經是美國一家菸草大廠所有。不遠處即是我們要拜訪的「Ossuary人骨教堂」。

Ossuary是13、14世紀時,當地墓園旁的教堂,西元1278年波西米亞國王派遣Sedlec修道院院長前往耶路撒冷聖地,他回來時帶了一把聖土,覆蓋在墓園的土地上,因此聞名於波西米亞以及中歐地區,許多有錢人死後都想埋葬於此。14世紀的黑死病,約有三萬多人埋葬在此,15世紀的戰爭,更擴大了墓園的規模。之後墓園漸漸荒廢,因為埋葬的數量實在太多,骨頭漸漸暴露,被堆積在教堂外圍,西元1511年,一位半瞎的隱士,開始將這些人骨搬進教堂內部。

這座教堂原屬哥德式建築,因為15世紀的戰爭而頃毀部分,1703到1710年之間,一位義大利裔的捷克建築師,開始艱難的整建工作,改成捷克巴洛克式的風格,也將堆積如山的人骨頭,作為教堂內部各種裝飾的素材,尖塔、皇冠、燭臺等等。18世紀,修道院的產權為另一個皇族所購,因此又經過一番整建,就是現在看到的樣子。

人骨藝術

一進門,教堂入口售票處的牆上,有用人骨排列成的「IHS」字樣,拉丁文字裡代表著Jesus Hominum Salvator(基督人類的救世主)的意思。買了門票後,還附上一張必須回收的「台灣繁體中文」解說摺頁,真是周到。紀念品的販賣更有意思,大大小小的骷髏頭,一名遊客買了一顆大頭、三顆小頭,還仔細地挑選比較哪一顆頭比較好看,真是夠了。

教堂裡的內部空間不大,但是絕對壯觀,骷髏頭堆疊而成的幾座尖塔、正中央的吊燈、巴洛克式的燭臺、象徵皇族的盾牌、各個角落的裝飾等等,全是用人體各部位的骨頭作成,創意十足,也震撼十足,誰會想到用如此數量龐大的人骨來作裝飾呢?

靜止的小鎮

參觀完人骨教堂,這偏僻的小地方,又碰上星期日,人沒看到幾個,更不用說公車,我們只好徒步前往Kutná Hora,還好只有三公里路程,以我們在英國訓練出來的走路功夫,這算小意思,平常去買個菜都不只這個距離。

我們走過幾乎靜止的外圍社區,來到更沉寂的舊城區,所有店家全都歇業,安靜的可怕,遊客只能在廣場上唯一一家營業的咖啡座午餐。廣場邊的「i」竟然有營業,昏暗的玄關處,一盞燈也沒有,推開一扇古老沉重的木門,原來「i」藏身其中,遊客諮詢中心裡,更是安靜到連自己的心跳聲與呼吸聲都聽得見,裡面的氣氛讓你不敢隨意走動或發出一點點聲響,二名服務人員坐在裡面,也是動也不動的低頭看書。還是趕緊走出大門,呼吸一口新鮮空氣吧!

唐娜小餐館

繞過廣場,來到義大利中庭(Vlašský dvur)旁的小廣場「Havlíckovo nám.」,角落一家名為Donna的餐廳有開店營業,趕緊進去填飽咕咕叫的肚子。點了一份波西米亞雞肉料理加上一份dumpling(捷克料理的麵食,用馬鈴薯作成,口感與形狀極像台灣的「發糕」,有各種形式,非常非常可口),不僅美味又份量十足,理所當然的外加一杯捷克名品「皮爾森啤酒Pilsner Urquell」。當然,價格比布拉格更低廉,而且有布拉格所沒有的「親切與和善」。這家餐館很有趣,可以看出老闆很嚮往世界各大城市,牆上掛滿紐約、雪梨、倫敦、巴黎等的大幅照片。

歲月的風采

突然下了一場短暫的大雨,先參觀了餐館附近的Italian Court,義大利中庭是以前的造幣廠,14世紀也曾是皇室的度假行宮。可惜這座義大利中庭正在整修,不能看到完整的全貌。從這個角落往教堂的方向,沿途質樸老舊的街道與建築,美的沒話說,與富麗堂皇的布拉格有完全不同的感受,更貼近心理的感動,是一種靜謐的美,不花俏、不炫目、不誇張、不宣揚,我喜歡!

一直有個疑惑,以現代的科技與歷史經驗的累積,應該可以達到一些更講究的施工品質。具有歷史感的建築與室內裝潢,興建時經過人工慢慢精雕細琢,之後再經過幾百年的歲月風華,就是有一種說不出來的美,幾乎是講求快速的現代建築所無法相提並論的,難道現代人真的沒有前人的細緻與美感嗎?或許,現代這些混凝土、玻璃惟幕、鋼構等建材,實在冰冷、缺乏感情吧。

老城區新建築

在這個屬於UNESCO指定保存的歷史古城,街道上突然出現了一棟新穎的建築,現代風格的線條與顏色,除了高度比較突出之外,與四周圍的老街道融合的很恰當,這一定經過嚴密的審核,才可能在老城裡出現這樣的新建築。這棟建築的設計感與品味非常不錯,一樓目前是一家書店。

街上一間畫家的工作室,門前貼滿了各國名人來此參觀的照片,有日本天皇夫婦、布希夫婦、史恩康納萊等等,應該是捷克著名的畫家吧,可惜今天歇業。跟捷克其它地方一樣,Kutná Hora也有很多陶土製品與各類精緻造型的裝飾品,但是,這裡的陶製品,無論品質、價格,都比布拉格美。

斗篷教堂

Sedlec 附近的銀礦,讓Kutná Hora在13、14世紀聲名大噪。她曾是波西米亞的第二大城,僅次於布拉格,14世紀時,她的人口數相當於倫敦,現在,她只是一個二萬人的小城鎮,但是擁有豐厚的歷史文化,吸引無數的觀光客前來,碰上星期日,才能讓我們享受一個寧靜的小鎮之旅。

小鎮的地形稍有坡度,往教堂的路上,可以回望剛剛走來的舊城區,左側有一整列壯觀的雕像,哥德式教堂「Cathedral of sv Barbora」屋頂上的三座斗篷形狀的尖塔,與一般哥德教堂的尖塔極為不同,有種特別的美感。教堂位在山丘的最頂端,是個視野極佳,遊客喜歡停留的的眺望點。

可能看慣了現代版的汽車,街景中的老舊Skoda汽車,真像是一件件的藝術品,是我特別喜歡取景的對象,這些車子像是刻意擺放的,位子角度都剛剛好。

完美咖啡館

回到街上一家掛著「illy cafe」招牌的咖啡館「Kavárnicka」,一進門,撲鼻的咖啡香、可愛親切的年輕女老闆、溫馨講究的室內裝潢,讓人第一眼就愛上這個小小的空間,木製的傢俱,每張椅子都長的不一樣,但是又搭配的十分合適,牆上的掛畫、淺綠色與黃色的油漆、老舊建築中的拱型天花板,怎麼看怎麼好,再來上一杯illy咖啡豆現磨的咖啡,還是illy專屬的咖啡杯;最令人感動的是,這麼完美的一切,竟然一杯咖啡只要價25克朗,P在結帳時還覺得很抱歉,應該多點一些蛋糕甜點的,真替她擔心,這樣真能維持營收嗎?

美式司機

逛了大半天,中午也飽餐一頓,又喝了一杯令人感動的咖啡,結束一天美好的旅程,因為走不到四公里外的火車站,也沒公車,我們決定轉搭巴士回布拉格,在舊城外圍的巴士站摸不著頭緒時,二位穿著入時的白髮老太太,竟還會用英文跟我們說「到布拉格的車子是六點二十分」。

巴士沿途的風景比火車好很多,長的像美國大個兒的巴士司機,駕駛座旁吊滿各式可愛布偶、貼滿卡通貼紙、一路聽著西洋流行歌曲,真是個性情中人,開車慢條斯理有禮貌,跟他壯碩的外型實在不太搭。在這個音樂素養極高的國度,隨處聽到的也是美國或英國的流行樂,想要聽到道地的捷克音樂還不太容易,在我們這趟旅途中,Dido應該是播放率最高的歌手。

不夠真實的城市

回到布拉格,天色仍亮著,相對於今天的Kutná Hora,突然覺得這是個太過商業化、觀光化、沒人情味、物價又高的城市。

布拉格的舊城幾乎與市民生活完全隔絕,幾乎沒有一般市民消費的商店、吃飯的餐館、喝咖啡的Cafe,只剩下俗不可耐、專門作觀光客生意的店。倫敦、巴黎,你可以在同一個區域,同時感受到當地人的生活細節,上同一個超市、上同一家咖啡館、搭一樣的地鐵。但是在布拉格舊城,似乎只剩下人來人往的觀光客與做觀光客生意的店家,很難感受到真實的生活面,非常可惜。

由 mrs.turtle 發表於 May 9, 2004 09:42 PM
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ivyhoward 發表於 June 30, 2017 04:11 PM

Zmatthew,
只可惜大多數熱門的旅遊景點都已經商業化過了頭
很難找到她的原汁原味
這就是在決定旅遊點的難處
像是去義大利總不能捨棄羅馬
但羅馬實在讓人不太好受啊

turtle 發表於 November 23, 2005 03:35 PM

我喜歡你的喜歡…
真實的生活面,這句話說的真好。
太商業化的地方~真的不太適合^^

Zmatthew 發表於 November 23, 2005 04:28 AM
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