May 12, 2004

波西米亞流浪記【7】:Praha再會吧!

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........最後一天的布拉格,艷陽高照,觀光客依舊擁擠,這個首都城市,雖然沒有捷克其他城市那麼悠閒與親切,但是她的內涵、尺度、消費,仍然深深的吸引外籍觀光客..........

Sightseeing電車

這是捷克之旅最後一天的行程,在小報攤買了電車票,搭上市區電車到處繞繞,這城市的電車票是採計時制,一張12克朗的票可以無限次使用1個小時。22號電車是觀光客最熱愛的sightseeing line,沿著Vltava河邊走,從左岸的精華區到右岸的精華區,我們從左岸城堡沿路搭到右岸高堡(Vyšehrad)下車,出發前,一位台灣朋友提醒我們,有朋友曾在高堡遇到假警察,不知是要騙財還是要騙護照,要我們特別小心。

布拉格發源地:Vyšehrad

一路往上走,真是條清幽的小徑,早上的觀光客還不多,但是讓我們聯想到「假警察」會不會就在此時出現,心中實在越來越毛。但是上頭的美景正等著我們,還是硬著頭皮往上走,只有幾個年輕人帶著一隻大狗在北側觀景台前,遠方的城堡、河岸風光、新城舊城的建築,馬路上的電車馬車汽車,一覽無遺。

高堡是布拉格最早的發源地,位在布拉格城南,山崗上有一座哥德式教堂,教堂的北側與東側是一大片墓園。一位年邁的修女,正在整理墓園中的雜草,墓園入口處有塊標示,記載著墓園的編號與名字,三位日本觀光客,手上拿著書,仔細的對照書上的記載與標示牌上的位置,再到墓園裡一一找尋,還很認真的作筆記。

身後事也是藝術

墓園中的墓碑,有新有舊,大部分是近代的。不似英國墓園中的墓碑比較一致性,這裡的墓碑,各具特色與巧思,像是藝術創作般的雕刻,似乎有相互較勁的意味,喜歡參觀墓園的P,對捷克人的藝術品味感到讚嘆不已。設計感十足的身後之地,對前人是一種紀念與憑弔,對後人是一種追思與欣賞,有一對愛侶、有一對母子、有音符、有老鷹仰望、有藝術雕像、還有幫後代子孫預留的空格,充滿藝術感,讓參觀墓園成了一種享受。

高堡因為離舊城有一段距離,比較少散客來此參觀,多半是旅行團,還有不少小學生來此戶外教學參觀,絕對是個清幽僻靜的都市角落,如果沒有假警察的陰影,我會願意在此待上大半天的。

販賣藝術

下午回到城堡,買票欣賞了一場音樂會,作為此趟旅程的完美句點。布拉格的音樂會就像家常便飯,每天走在街上,會碰上很多人在街角發傳單,各式各樣大大小小的音樂會,還會特別聲明「這是保證有幾個樂手的樂團」,樂手越多票價就越貴。雖然不應該把音樂欣賞搞得高不可攀,但是像這樣沿街販賣藝術,還有為數不少的超級推銷員,就站在音樂廳的附近,超著流利的英文,對著往來的遊客推銷,很怪!我想,布拉格人自己應該不聽這種音樂會吧!

我們這場音樂會是在城堡裡的迷你型音樂會,進去後發現,小小的演奏廳裡,全部是白髮老人,只有我們兩個東方臉孔的年輕人,P說「我們怎麼都喜歡這種老人活動呢?」一架白色的平台鋼琴、二支譜架,鋼琴、長笛、小提琴三名樂手,分別重奏或獨奏,曲目全是著名的古典樂曲,演奏對這三名樂手來說,就像是一項例行性工作,技巧當然好的沒話說,就是缺乏一種熱烈的情感。

慵懶的午后

聽完這場小而美的音樂會後,艷陽曬的讓人頭昏,我們找了一家喝下午茶的小店,這可能也是一家當地著名的下午茶館,全是老先生、老太太,在此度過悠閒的午后時光,鄰桌一位老到不行的老先生,還買了一支玫瑰給他的老伴,不時說笑話給老太太聽,幸福模樣真令人羨慕。我們點了咖啡和啤酒,然後再來三份精緻蛋糕點心、一大杯綜合花式冰淇淋,結帳時,竟花不到一百克朗,直呼便宜。

最後一天的布拉格,艷陽高照,觀光客依舊擁擠,這個首都城市,雖然沒有捷克其他城市那麼悠閒與親切,但是她的內涵、尺度、消費,仍然深深的吸引外籍觀光客,治安也遠比我們想像中的好,只是一些很奇怪的乞丐集團,人潮來的時候,全身趴在地上一動也不動,手拿一個杯子乞討,人潮走的時候,馬上站起來抽煙、喝酒、嘻鬧。

冒牌小巴

傍晚準備搭Cedas國營旅行社的小巴士回到機場,在市政廳旁的廣場等車時,看到一名鬼鬼祟祟的司機開著一台紅色九人座福斯T4,觀察著等車的我們,七點半時間一到,他又敏捷的把車子繞回來,下車開門說「機場?」,我們比了站牌,示意在等Cedas,然後他從容且若無其事的說「90克朗」,我們就被騙上車了。真是聰明的搶生意方法,比正牌的早五分鐘到,用同樣的價格,也可以載到五名旅客,那等一下國營小巴不就撲空。

平安的結束八天的捷克之旅,我們已經摸了查理士橋上的雕像,有朝一日一定會再回來這個迷人的國度。

由 mrs.turtle 發表於 May 12, 2004 12:16 AM
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cai80 發表於 May 8, 2014 03:19 PM

橋,
奇怪
我之前怎麼會沒貼張人骨教堂呢
改天來補貼
請稍等嚕
因為還要把檔案找出來~~

turtle 發表於 June 1, 2005 10:27 PM

恩 我也去過布拉格
好美的城市 童話般的城市
快二年了吧
超懷念的
真想再去一次ㄟ
恩 可以給我看一些人骨教堂的照片媽
我都沒有去
恩 真可惜

發表於 June 1, 2005 07:27 PM

無意之中
由網路追追追的連結上發現了您的網站
就愛上這個網站囉
我也喜歡旅行(雖然至今未出過國)
我也喜歡攝影(雖然至今尚未擁有單眼相機)

所以
要看就從頭開始看囉^__________^

發表於 March 21, 2005 08:24 AM

這隻狼啊
您是在幫我回顧blog的歷史喔
哈哈
剛剛看到這些東西,過去的記憶又悄悄回來
時間真是太快太快,連回憶都來不及

turtle 發表於 March 18, 2005 12:59 PM

想看人骨教堂= =
嗚嗚嗚!!~~~~

發表於 March 18, 2005 04:45 AM

捷克啤酒 真是讚啊!!
從沒這麼狂喝猛喝用力喝

照片在信上看過就好咩
全都貼在這裡 會塞車的
改天再寄幾張人骨教堂給你吧

turtle 發表於 June 11, 2004 06:02 PM

哇哇,看了真是心癢癢的,好想去啊
捷克的啤酒跟德國的比起來如何啊?看你們這樣拼命的喝,我都覺得渴了
為何網頁上的照片比寄給我們的信少那麼多呢
我最想看看那個人骨教堂啦
看完不知道會不會做惡夢喔


abowl 發表於 June 10, 2004 07:01 AM
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