March 17, 2004

上超市!你屬於哪一個等級?

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........「英國人根深蒂固的『階級』與『種族』的觀念,影響她們對超市品牌的選擇」.......

超市的階級哲學

超級市場是英國生活中最最重要的場景,幾天就得去光顧一次,舉凡生活中你想的到的、你想不到的,除了基本的柴米油鹽醬醋茶等各類各國食品之外,其他的生活用品、鍋碗瓢盆、園藝用具、盆栽、花卉、影音產品、書籍卡片、報章雜誌等等,所有消費性的產品,都可以在各個大小不同尺度的超市中買到。沒了超市,英國人的生活可能會嚴重失衡。

在這裡生活一年多的經驗中,對於Sheffield地區的超市有些基本的概念,剛好最近報上有一篇針對「英國各大品牌超市的比較」,對照切身的生活經驗,還真是有意思。

全英國平均每年花在超級市場的消費額,高達750億英鎊(75 billion),這項高額的消費額,深深的影響了英國的地景地貌、生活風格、甚至是每個人銀行存款中的餘額。這換算成新台幣幾乎是天文數字,P跟我為了這個數字一直爭執不下,到底是多少呢,麻煩對數字靈光一點的朋友,給我們一個正確的答案吧。

這篇文章提到「英國人根深蒂固的『階級』與『種族』的觀念,影響她們對超市品牌的選擇」。以前只覺得到Marks & Spencer買東西的人,都是銀髮老太太、衣著品味比較好,心想這裡價錢較高,理當是這些飽領了退休金或老人年金的人來消費的地方。

原來不只是「價格」的問題,這裡頭還存在著「階級」的學問,英國人不只語言分階級(皇室成員從小必須學習正統皇室腔、受過高等教育者有一口標準的BBC英文、藍領階層也一樣驕傲他們的工人腔……)、運動分階級(馬球、賽馬、狩獵是皇室貴族的專利,板球、高爾夫球是中產階級玩的、足球則是工人階層踢的),就連每天要去的超市,都得清楚的分出階級。

Sheffield大學人類地理學的教授,指導的研究報告「英國超市消費者的忠誠度與階層」中也提到,『英國人不會注意到跟他們平常消費習慣不同的東西』,也就是說,這種情況不只反應在對超市的選擇上,就連去同一家超市,有些人只買高級肉品櫃,有些人就只挑特價品下手。

在台灣,超市、全聯福利社、外商大賣場或傳統市場,也有這種區隔嗎?不就是方便就好,離家近最重要,或是看到某家店的大特價廣告,無聊的跟著去排隊搶購。當然也會有自己比較習慣的消費場所,但是階級意識有這麼嚴重嗎?從沒認真的想過這個問題。

超市比比看

當然,除了階級意識之外,也存在著「價格」、「便利性」等客觀因素,「愉悅度」、「室內裝潢」、「背景音樂」、「氣味」、「自我主觀印象」等主觀因素。以下是這篇報導中,針對各大超市的分析比較與我的經驗。

Waitrose:客層以「象徵成功」的族群為代表,約佔英國家庭的9.6﹪,產品主打精緻的食材、高級特製的品牌,像是某種高級的松露。店裡不以華麗的裝潢來吸引客人,強調安靜、高品質、高質感,來店的客人也都穿戴整齊、溫文有禮,不會有「失業人口、低收入戶或是粗鄙的鄉下人」,這句話聽起來「很階級」吧?一位正在店內消費的受訪者傲氣的說「這裡沒有擾人的大拍賣活動,非常的清爽,你不會覺得自己的智能被羞辱,而且產品來源是倫理的,不會覺得自己掉入了全球化的夢靨中。」

Sheffield是英格蘭北部的工業城,住民當然不是屬於這個階層的,所以,這裡並沒有這家超市的分店;而我,也不是吃的起松露、魚子醬的人,因此,也從沒到過這一家店。

Sainsbury’s:「都會精英」的代表,7.2﹪的英國家庭,這是一群年輕、受過良好教育、四海為家、自由主義者、不喜歡有小孩、住在都會區、擁有高比例可以自由使用收入的人。

正在研究綠建築的P說,這是一家非常注重綠色企業形象的超市,尤其強調企業對環境的倫理,像是廣泛運用太陽能、風力發電等再生能源。他們位在Greenwich的旗艦店,即是一棟綠建築的代表作,另外它的運輸貨櫃,頂部也強調以太陽能板發電,供應冷凍冷藏的裝置。雖然真正能製造的再生能源有限,但對於企業形象的提升非常有幫助。尤其對那些有環境意識的族群,天真的以為他們花的錢都投注在對環境有益的事情上。

Sheffield有三家分店,一家位在市中心的The Moor,雖然走路可以到達,但是展售空間不足,產品種類也相對不夠多元,因此不習慣在這裡消費;一家位在Meadowhall,雖然寬敞明亮,產品也豐富,但是需要搭電車才可到,價格又不是太平民,也不方便常常去;另一家位於市中心外圍,佔地很大,但是需要搭車才可以到達,也不是無車階級的我們方便去的。

Tesco:屬於「快樂家庭」形象,年輕的夫妻帶著年輕的小孩,約佔10.8﹪的家庭,也是涵蓋層面最廣的超市,所有收入的族群都有可能在這裡出現。

Sheffield有三家不同規模的分店,一家真正大規模的分店位在郊區,需要開車才可抵達,因此沒機會去;一家步行可達的Tesco Metro,空間窄小、產品選擇少、貨色也堪慮,也不常去;還有一家位在電車路West Street的Tesco Express,剛開幕不久,屬於便利商店型的小超市。

Safeway:「鄉村田園風格」,約佔5.4﹪,客層居住在郊區。這裡提供安靜寬敞的購物空間,可以讓消費者仔細的端詳該買什麼,在這裡購物有家的感覺。但是這家店卻始終無法賺錢,最近才以30億英鎊的價格,被低價消費取向的Morrisons收購。

這是我們去年最主要的消費場所,因為它離我們住處最近,再者購物空間寬敞明亮、動線清楚,推著大型購物推車不會與人碰撞,生鮮蔬果肉類品質也算不錯,各類產品品牌選擇也夠豐富。一直到隔壁條街的Yun同學,讓我們搭她便車到稍遠的Morrisons買菜時,它都是我們的最愛。

Marks & Spencer:一家歷史悠久的百貨店,早期是以做內衣起家,但是它的食物部門更甚於它的服飾部門,超市以高消費族群為主,約佔6.7﹪。優雅安靜的空間,包裝精美的產品,在這裡買東西,你會覺得自己好像比較富有(這是什麼奇怪的形容)。

Sheffield的店裡常常可看到打扮優雅的銀髮族在此消費,產品當然是物美價不廉,品質無可挑剔,是偶爾可以去奢侈一下的地方,犒賞犒賞自己的胃。它也是我們在英國各地旅行時的好夥伴,如果嫌上餐館吃東西太昂貴,就去買一些熟食,這裡的各類三明治、沙拉都非常的美味可口。

記得上次Fish來英國旅行時,看到她們印刷、包裝精美的捲筒衛生紙,竟然堅持要買個四捲來當作英國的紀念品,回去還捨不得用,有這麼美嗎?

Morrisons:這是一家走低價取向,品質還可以接受的超市,佔了16﹪的高比例族群。大部分位在英格蘭北部這些工業革命時代的鋼鐵、煤礦城市,大多改建自老舊的大廠房或船塢區。

Sheffield的店就是改建自維多利亞時期的軍營,外觀像個城堡一樣,這裡生意非常好,因為大部分的人還是以經濟為考量吧,這也是我們捨棄最愛的Safeway,投靠這裡的因素,因為「便宜」。但是蔬果種類較少,肉品品相不甚佳,其他產品大部分都是自營品牌,但提供了其他店難得看到的新鮮魚貨。店裡的消費動線設計不良,買東西時要一直說「sorry!sorry!sorry!」,因為很容易跟別人撞在一起,還有一大面自然採光的玻璃屋頂,太陽一整天照射在蔬果與成堆的土司上面,實在覺得很不妥當。但是在這裡消費,買三大包只要花10鎊左右,跟Safeway的一大包10鎊,或者Marks & Spencer的一小包就要10鎊比較起來,實在是預算型的我們,不得不的最佳選擇。

Somerfield:報上並未特別介紹這家超市,但它在Sheffield的二家分店還佔有不小的市場,一家位於市中心,一家位於Broomhill,二家店生意都還不錯,品質可以、價錢也合理,是個小而美的超市,也是我們偶爾散步經過時會進去光顧的超市。這是我們剛到Sheffield時,住在學校宿舍時,最常去的店,很多英國食物的印象都是來自這裡,因此有著一種特別的情感吧。

我們的超市哲學

對於超市,我們並沒有特別的偏好與偏見,享受到處亂逛的嚐鮮心態,從中選擇自己喜歡的東西。像是M&S買麵包、火腿、熟食、還有我們的最愛Aberdeen Angus牛肉(這是英國非常著名的牛肉,一種在蘇格蘭高地野牧的長毛牛,肉質極佳,是世界饕客心中的上等牛肉,連死對頭法國主廚都說讚!我們極力推薦,可是現在鋪貨數量極少,得搶在開門時間跟一堆老太太們爭相搶購);Safeway買肉品、蛋、奶類;Morrisons買蔬果、生活用品;Somerfield高興就買一點……。偶爾還到兩家廣東人開的中國超市光顧一下,另外每個月還各有一次韓國菜車、日本菜車可以買點新奇的東西。

在英國的超市經驗,絕對新鮮有趣吧!

由 mrs.turtle 發表於 March 17, 2004 08:32 PM
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zhijinji 發表於 June 28, 2014 09:36 AM

哇~~
現在的M&S聽說變了呢!?

發表於 December 24, 2006 11:16 PM

J,
這篇文章是二年前寫的
現在應該還可以再多補充一些
不知道美國超市與英國的差別在哪兒

個人覺得比較下來還是Waitrose比較好買
賣場寬敞舒適
東西多樣化 品牌選擇多 不會只有"等玫瑰"自家貨
其他超市大部分都是自營品牌的產品居多
但是如果比較"熟食類"
M&S還是比較強悍

Sheffield沒有日本超市
只能在廣東超市或韓國超市裡看到一些東西
以前有日本車每個月來一趟
現在沒了 很懷念啊

turtle 發表於 February 23, 2006 11:35 AM

真是太好的資料了 我才剛來sheffield沒多久 但是說實在的美國的超是比英國好買許多 對了 不知道sheffield有沒有日本超市ㄋ

J 發表於 February 22, 2006 01:46 PM

之前在Oxfam有個寄信到Tesco抗議的活動,原因就是Tesco身為英國幾個主要的超市之一,卻壓榨及剝削許多英國當地或是海外農民的獲利,因此公平貿易(Fair Trade)希望藉此一人一信來喚起消費者的意識,及Tesco的自覺.只有透過消費者的抵制,才會有驚弓之鳥的效果.別說是Tesco了,就連全球普遍的麥當勞玩具,也都是壓榨童工賺來的,可是去麥當勞吃漢堡的小孩子哪裡會知道那些玩具是和他一樣同年齡的小孩在工資極微薄的不公平待遇下生產出來的.

Education! Education! Education!

Trista 發表於 November 21, 2005 11:48 AM

我勒
我屬於哪家近哪家買
或哪家便宜哪家買的
所以TESCO SAINSBURY MORRISON SAFEWAY都去過
但主要還是在SAFEWAY
對了
CASTLE MARKET 更主要
因為便宜囉

David 發表於 August 1, 2004 01:48 PM

唉呀
人家只是客套啦
總不能跟你說"你姐寫那什麼鬼東西"

不過呢
幫我找找那兒可以投稿 是真的

昨天跟曾永平在MSN聊天
他也要去德州喔
說不定你們會在休士頓碰到
他說你在"少來了健康雜誌"豎立了自己的風格
寫的文章常常被轉寄喔
繼續加油
我回答他"可是他在社裡很黑耶"
他說"堅持理念的人 總是會變黑"


我能理解


turtle 發表於 July 23, 2004 10:01 AM

阿姐

我墾丁的"好朋友"咪咪豬問
你到底怎麼寫文章的呢
為什麼那麼有深度呢
看過相關資料就可以記得就能寫囉

比"少來了健康雜誌記者"寫得深入太多
好太多

她叫你去投稿啦


給我記住
居然給我吐槽

我來幫你投稿
一定要投到

liata 發表於 July 23, 2004 02:37 AM
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