June 03, 2003

Scenic Switzerland【2】:激情過後

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...........街頭暴動過後的景象,卻成為來訪遊客的攝影題材,紛紛拿著攝影機、相機,將這一幕景象拍攝下來作紀念...........

Swiss Pass

日內瓦的青年旅館是舊建物重新整修而成,空間寬敞,住宿環境與品質都不錯,離湖邊、市區也近,在高物價的瑞士,是一家值得推薦的便宜住宿點。

吃完早餐,回到市區的火車總站,購買未來八天的火車聯票「Swiss Pass」,價格不斐,二人以上同行的優惠票,一個人還要289瑞士法郎,相當於新台幣7800元,但是一票在手,旅客可以非常便利的搭乘瑞士境內幾乎所有的公共交通工具。在瑞士,只怕你旅遊預算不夠,幾乎所有你想得到的旅遊服務,他們都以非常高品質的方式提供給旅客。驚訝的是,這樣的服務品質不是近年才有,早在二、三O年代,朱自清的歐遊瑞士文章中,就提到瑞士國鐵的便捷。

瑞士國鐵可以將境內的鐵道網絡,以一張類似倫敦地鐵圖的圖樣,清晰的的標示出所有國鐵、私鐵、船舶、纜車等交通動線,一目了然的告訴第一次來訪的旅客,幾乎不用詢問任何問題,自己就可以按步就班的處理好,非常強的邏輯概念,這就是效率吧!不同於英國人,什麼事情,總是喜歡「親自為您服務」,一切往最複雜的思考模式去進行,即便是英國人,也常常在火車站亂了方寸。

G8之後

出發前一天,看到電視新聞報導,瑞士法語區的日內瓦、洛桑等大城,許多抗議民眾集結,反美、反英、反對正在法國邊境舉行的G8(八大國領袖高峰會),將市中心的高級精品街、加油站、辦公大樓等搞得一團糟。我們沿街逛,一時還沒意會過來,以為這一整排商店怎麼同時進行整修呢?越想越不對,幾乎整個日內瓦的商店、餐廳都以醒目的黃色三夾板將店門口完全密封起來,夾板上被抗議民眾以各種顏色的噴漆塗得琳瑯滿目,嘲諷辱罵美國總統布希、英國首相布萊爾、法國總統席哈克、G8高峰會、反全球化……,這些全是他們的創作題材,好酷啊!

一些有事前防備的店家,所幸逃過一劫,只是損失了幾天的營業業績,慘得是那些鐵齒沒有防範的商店,幾乎所有玻璃櫥窗全被砸毀,看了令人怵目驚心,可以想像暴動當時的恐怖景象。

街頭暴動過後的景象,卻成為來訪遊客的攝影題材,紛紛拿著攝影機、相機,將這一幕景象拍攝下來作紀念,尤其在瑞士這樣安定平和的國家,這種暴動場面相信是少見的,還有很多扛著專業器材的攝影人士,也特地前來捕捉歷史鏡頭。原本是一家家精緻的商店櫥窗,現在什麼也看不到,多數商店仍未恢復正常營業。

我們繼續往舊城區走,日內瓦舊城位在稍有坡度的小山丘上,高高低低的街道與建築,增添了觀賞的趣味性,更是攝影的好題材,這一帶還看得到暴動過後的影子。

高質感 vs高物價

瑞士的確是旅遊者的天堂,街道標示、景點標示、公車站牌、電車站牌等,全都清楚易辨,而且處處充滿設計感,很有建築的線條,就連旅遊資訊站提供的免費折頁,都是精緻、詳細、多元,可以滿足各種旅客的需求。附帶一提的是,連瑞士法郎的紙鈔都充滿了現代感的設計線條及元素,而且大小、材質、顏色、視障辨識點等細節都是以一整套的觀點來考量的,把所有幣值的紙鈔擺在一起,整體感十足。

如果要說唯一的缺點,那就是讓我們消化不良的高物價,一份麥當勞要價約新台幣300元,除了比高物價的英國更貴之外,連薯條的蕃茄醬都要另外加錢。好在我們準備了很多統一肉燥麵、肉燥米粉、當歸鴨麵線、味增拉麵,可以應應急、緩緩荷包。

分秒不差

中午過後,趕回旅館拿行李,再回到車站搭火車,反正有Swiss Pass,可以來來回回無限搭乘。我們在車站月台候車,準備前往下一站洛桑(Lausanne),等車之際,仔細觀察了瑞士以準點著稱的國鐵是如何控管,列車一定在出發時間前幾分鐘即進站停妥,倒數20秒時,列車長鳴哨,倒數五秒鐘按鈕關門,時間一到馬上走人,一秒不差,真是精準的嚇人。

全國的車站都有相同造型的「國鐵鐘」,紅色粗大的秒針,隨時提醒站務人員,務必精準的以「秒」計,的確不容易,要控管全國各級列車(包括國鐵及私鐵),連接各個大小車站。甚至在我們出發的前幾個月,國鐵的官方網站上,就可以明確的告訴你,這班列車將在第幾月台停靠。絕不是英國的火車,列車出發前,還會廣播說「這般列車已經從第一月台換到第五月台」,一大群旅客拉著笨重的行李,在月台間邊狂奔邊狂罵。

乘坐舒適、安靜、平穩、乾淨的列車旅行,真是一大享受,搞不懂英國的火車到底是如何經營管理,可以搞得如此人仰馬翻,狀況連連。不知道被柴契爾夫人解體之前的英國國鐵British Railway是否也是如此?一直以為自己對歐洲的旅遊新鮮感愈來愈薄弱,來到瑞士,又讓我們重燃去年第一趟德國之行的新鮮感與旅遊樂趣。

暴動第二現場:洛桑(Lausanne)

搭上火車,半個小時車程即來到洛桑,頂著午后的艷陽、近三十度的高溫,實在覺得這個城鎮一點也不吸引我們。搭上市區五號電車,來到了位於山丘上的舊城區,鳥鳥的城堡與教堂,只有高處俯瞰整個洛桑的視野還值得一看。沿著往山腳下商業區的人行步道,是由木造的階梯加上特別造型的頂蓋,可以遮揚、擋雨雪,是個不錯的設計概念,可惜這僅是舊城留下的少數歷史路段。

山腳下熱絡的商業區,很多店家也跟日內瓦市區一樣,用木板封了起來,原來這兒也是前幾天暴動的場景之一。

研究了在車站買來的市區地圖,決定搭上二號電車,前往位在湖邊的小港「烏契」(Ouchy),看看這一段的日內瓦湖風光,並且拜訪一下國際奧委會的總部。怎知電車路線早已改了,讓我們又多走了一段路。

瑞士的市區電車很有趣,電車或公車,上頭拉著二根粗粗的電纜線,車輪卻不走在軌道上,全靠司機的駕駛經驗行駛在一般的馬路上,然後二根伸縮的電纜線拉著龐大的車身,像在溜狗一樣。瑞士政府為了減少廢氣的排放,連公車都採用電動的,市區空氣品質是有改善,但美麗的天空線卻多了錯綜複雜的電纜線,拍照起來實在有點礙眼。

原來到烏契早已開了另一條新的齒軌電車路線,專門連接中央車站,為什麼地圖及電車告示牌都沒有修正呢?讓我們走了許多冤枉路,在高標準的瑞士,旅客的要求可也是不低的。

黃金列車起站:蒙投(Montreux)

從洛桑到蒙投,不過短短的二十分鐘車程,因為沒算好時間,到站時已經晚上八點多,連最後一班公車都沒趕上,只好站在計程車招呼站等Taxi,可能因為地方小,只有二台計程車在服務,需要等他載完上一位旅客,再繞回車站,短短十分鐘車程,要價20法郎(約台幣540元),天啊!英國的印度阿三計程車也沒這麼嚇人。

蒙投的青年旅館雖然離市區有一段路,但是位於優美的日內瓦湖畔,離著名的西庸古堡也近,亦是一棟全新整修,以「音樂」為主題的室內設計風格,餐廳牆上掛滿每年爵士音樂季的海報,牆上的音符塗鴉、天花板的舞台燈光,整體來說還算不錯。

正當我們拿出泡麵準備料理時,這才發現我們的歐規插頭尺寸大了那麼一點點,電熱壺無法使用,歐陸的青年旅館又多數不提供自行料理的廚房,只好拿著大鋼碗裝著泡麵跟店老闆要了熱開水,而且還要了兩次才填飽肚子。瑞士人這招也真狠,他們的插頭硬是比一般歐規的小了那麼一點點,而且讓你察覺不出來有什麼不同之處,但是,插不進去就是插不進去,一定得再想辦法買一個轉接頭才行;厲害的是,他們的瑞士規格插頭卻可以在歐陸暢行無阻,但是別人可就得再花一筆小錢才可使用,聰明吧!

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