June 07, 2003

Scenic Switzerland【8】:Top of Europe少女峰

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..............從高處聽到雪橇犬哈士奇的叫聲,趕緊尋著聲音去看看,可惜晚了一步,牠們已經去冰河上狂奔................

晨霧飄邈

早上6點30分起床,窗外一片白茫茫,心想慘了,一個人115瑞士法郎買的上山車票就要報銷。吃完在瑞士境內青年旅館裡最難吃的早餐之後(連想要打包的慾望都沒有),查看郵政巴士的時間,接不上登山火車,我們決定沿著昨天的湖濱小徑,散步到Interlaken Ost(東站),這時候發現白茫茫的湖面風光,在太陽的照射下,水氣逐漸散去,藍天、陽光露臉了,雲霧環繞在山腰間,想像自己置身在仙境中,我們邊走邊吶喊,實在美到「靠」邊走。

清新的早晨,看到湖濱人家,悠閒地整理自家的小船隻,都市人有輛車、再有個車庫,都已經是奢侈的享受,這兒,家家戶戶都有自己的船,湖邊蓋的房子都還有「船庫」,只要走下幾步階梯,就可以到自己的船,開船遊湖去。

搭上8點35分的上山小火車,木造的車廂、木造的內裝、木造的椅子,瑞士的旅遊規劃的確周到,上山的火車還分為左右二條不同的路線,讓遊客可以在上山、下山時,觀賞到不同的風景,我們選擇往Grindelwald出發的這一邊上山。車子逐漸攀升,剛剛湖濱的印象越來越遠、越遠越美,硬生生的又把昨天的黃金列車沿線給比了下去。上山的列車一樣是電汽化,速度很快,列車為了安全與速度,一樣咬了加在鐵軌中間的「齒軌」,滿座的車廂裡,遊客東張西望的驚呼,一下子左邊、一下子右邊,根本來不及欣賞沿途的壯麗山水。

這裡已經可以清楚的看到高山上厚厚的積雪。

印度阿三

同車廂一家子印度人,一個比P更瘋狂拍照的印度老爸,拿著他的Nikon相機,還帶著閃光燈,看似專業的模樣,在狹窄的車廂中,前後跑、左右跑,底片不用錢似的拼命拍,還不斷示意二位意態闌珊的女兒(這麼美的景色,竟然哈欠連連)閃一邊去,別擋住老爸的鏡頭。

真懷疑,瑞士是不是印度人朝聖的國度,從第一天到現在,沿路走來,「印度人」竟是觀光人口裡的最大宗,好奇怪,而且都是攜家帶眷,一大家子人,老老少少一起出動。但是這些穿著「印度傳統服飾」的印度人,實在是我們旅途中的夢靨,從搭飛機開始,就差點沒被二個穿金帶銀的小女孩給搞瘋;到各個風景點,還是被這一群一群「像死的一樣」的印度人給徹底打敗,走路亂撞,完全無視於身邊其它人的存在,他們永遠站在景色最美的地方,像銅像一般「一動也不動」,遊客一般都會有不需要言語的默契,只要看到別人在拍照或想要拍照,一定禮貌的趕緊閃一邊去,他們不是,就站在那兒「眼睛瞪大大、面無表情的看著你」,示意他「我們要拍照」,他還是聽不懂,唉!

少女峰登山鐵道(第一段)

火車沿路經過的河流,納著高山上不斷融化的冰河水,湍急的往下奔流,早晨的水氣還未散去,河水表面還凝結著一層厚厚的霧氣,是我從未見過的奇觀。

由Interlaken出發的火車,除了往最盛名的景點少女峰之外,沿線都可以轉搭各家不同的私鐵公司,前往不同的景點,選擇之多,令人眼花撩亂,不過也吸引你可以再次造訪。我們的火車從海拔567公尺的Interlaken來到第一個轉運站1034公尺的「Grindelwald」,氣溫明顯下降,高山小鎮的風光宜人,很多上山的遊客選擇投宿在此,享受寧靜的山林氣氛,從這兒分散出去,有四通八達的登山火車、纜車及迷人的健行路線,而且還第一次看到「日本觀光案內所」,可見他們旅客之多,可以有一個專門為日本人設置的遊客服務中心。

看到這麼多蜿蜒在高原、丘陵、溪谷中的健行步道,背著登山包的健行者,有終年積雪的四千公尺高山為背景,豐富多元的森林、變化多端的景色,好像只有在戶外休閒用品的廣告中才看得到,P說「回英國之後,別再跟我提說要去Peak健行這件事了」。

少女峰登山鐵道(第二段)

我們搭了下一班次接駁的火車,繼續往更高的第二個轉運站「Kleine Scheidegg」前進,鐵軌邊已經可以觸碰到冰原的下限,在每年溫室效應的影響之下,可以看見冰原正不斷在融化中,遠方的山壁上,許多道氣勢滂沱的冰河瀑布奔流而下,難怪剛剛下游的溪谷有這麼大量的水流,這可是不折不扣的冰河水。

第一次看到如此以壯觀、壯麗、雄偉等文辭都不足以形容的景色,數位相機裡的記憶卡不知不覺已經快耗盡。「Kleine Scheidegg」,海拔2061公尺,已經在少女峰的山腰平台上,抬頭一望即是少女峰,此刻的心情真是激動萬分,一片小雲都沒有的大氣中,高原上的綠草坡、行駛在山腰間的紅色列車、高山上的冰原、還有健行其中的登山客,一切都搭配得完美無暇,這是旅程中天氣最清澈的一天、海拔最高的一天、心情也最High的一天。很難想像有人為了等待天晴,得在山腳下守候多日,每天觀看遊客中心裡的電視,藉由架在山頂上的CCTV播放出來的現場實況,才決定是否上山,這時候只能說,我們真是太幸運了。

少女峰登山鐵道(第三段)

在「Kleine Scheidegg」,又換上另一家公司的火車,這次真的要登頂了,出站沒多久,列車即進入八公里長的隧道中,為了安全、也為了保留景觀,完全行駛在冰原底下的洞穴裡,隧道中的溫度直下,讓我們得穿上預備的禦寒衣物。火車在中途2865公尺的「Eigerwand」和3160公尺的「Eismeer」二個小站會各暫停五分鐘,讓遊客透過玻璃窗,欣賞洞口外一片雪白色的大地,白雪在強光的反射下,一定得換上太陽眼鏡,才睜得開眼睛。沿途火車上的液晶螢幕不斷播放沿線的景觀與生態,車上的廣播竟然多達七種語言,德、法、英、中、阿、日、韓等,第一次在旅遊點聽到中文廣播格外親切,不過當然是對岸高亢激昂的京片子。

Top of Europe

列車最後抵達終點站「Jungfraujoch-Top of Europe」,一個完全蓋在洞穴中的車站與遊客中心。走在像迷宮般的超大範圍遊客服務中心,有車站、資訊站、餐廳、販賣部、冰雕宮殿等完善設施,藉由地道、電梯、樓梯上上下下好幾層,一剛開始,無法適應高山的壓力,上下樓梯走沒幾步路,竟然頭暈目眩。

來到室外的冰原上,站在鬆軟的白雪上,仰望近在咫尺的少女峰,俯瞰綿延不絕的冰河,讚嘆大自然的鬼斧神工之外,也敬佩這龐大的人造工程,幾乎所有設施都隱藏在冰原之下、山峰之下,絲毫沒有破壞景觀,介紹的影片中也特別強調,上山的電氣火車運用水力再生能源發電,完全不使用高污染的石化燃料,大量遊客的垃圾也在Grindelwald經過完善的處理才運送下山,何時,我們才能有這樣的旅遊品質。

站在3454公尺高的冰原上,強烈的紫外線與白雪的反光,戴著太陽眼鏡都快負荷不了,終於可以體驗什麼是「雪盲」,倒是在太陽的溫暖照射下,竟不覺得冷,室外的溫度計標示著3℃,身上的羽絨衣都快穿不住了。

這時候當然得拿出我的最佳模特兒「Turtle」,跟這難得一見的世界級景觀拍張紀念照,黃綠色的身影,站在雪白的高山上特別明顯,很多遊客還跟我商借也要拍張照。

回到室內的遊客服務中心,買了幾張郵票,貼在昨天晚上預先寫好的明信片上,自己蓋上印有3454公尺的少女峰郵戳,丟進郵筒中,寄給家人也寄給自己,據說這是歐洲最高的郵政系統。

千年冰川

遊客中心的另一側,得搭上高速電梯,來到真正的Top of Europe,海拔3571公尺的另一個觀景點,視野更無限延伸,走在搭建在冰原上的鐵格網上,往下一看,即是幾百公尺高的冰原谷地,依稀看到有人在冰原裡健行,不知道要走到那兒去,太刺激了。

地球每年氣溫逐漸升高,冰原與冰河也不斷縮減,從這裡可以清楚看到融化的痕跡,甚至冰原裡的水池。從高處聽到雪橇犬哈士奇的叫聲,趕緊尋著聲音去看看,可惜晚了一步,牠們已經去冰河上狂奔。這裡還提供塑膠圓盤,讓遊客可以坐在圓盤上面,在斜坡道上滑冰,運動細胞不好的我,第一次還笨拙的撞上冰壁,痛得唉唉叫。

實在很想再多待一些時間,把眼前的美景全部印記在腦海中,無奈高山上的紫外線實在讓眼睛受不了,稀薄的氧氣也讓我們走得氣喘噓噓,只得搭上15點35分的火車下山。回程途中雲霧漸漸聚集,這時候美麗的山頂已經被覆蓋起來,就像舞台謝幕一樣跟我們說再見。

我們選擇另一條路線下山,看看不同的景色,真慶幸早上賭對了,這邊的風景相較之下單調許多。

太完美的一天,很難形容心中的感動與激動,這裡真是個一百分的好地方。

由 mrs.turtle 發表於 June 7, 2003 10:16 PM | 引用
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cheap jordans 發表於 April 13, 2017 05:27 PM
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