June 08, 2003

Scenic Switzerland【9】:琉森

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.............將船停在湖中間,任由它隨波飄啊飄,真像是電影或小說中的情節,原來真有人過著這種不可思議的快活日子..............

各取所需

離開Interlaken,繼續黃金列車的後半段,準備前往中北部另一個著名城鎮-琉森(Luzern),鐵道風景依舊美麗、依舊黃金。只比台灣土地大一些的瑞士,旅遊點平均分散,火車、電車、公車、郵政巴士、纜車、船舶等大眾運輸廣而便捷,可以帶旅客到任何你想到的角落。以小小的Interlaken為例,從這裡分散出去,可以到達的景點或小鎮,多達90個以上的選擇,遊客不必一窩峰擠到著名的少女峰,各取所好,選一條路線健行漫步,選個僻靜的角落遠離塵囂,或者到附近其他山頭遠觀少女峰,絕對可以滿足旅遊者的各種需求。

單騎天堂

歐陸國家很重視單騎的環境,瑞士當然也是單車騎士的天堂,無論都市或鄉間,都規劃設置完善的單車道、停車棚,在安全舒適的車道上,一旁是美麗的湖光山色,我們沿路從瑞士的西南境到這裡,每個角落都可以看到騎著單車的家庭成員、長途旅行者、通勤者、或只是享受單騎速度的勁者。的確,在這麼小的土地上,對於土地及人民來說,減少高污染、高耗能交通工具的努力,絕對是長遠永續的考量。比瑞士更小,但人口密度卻高出好幾倍的台灣,私家轎車數量也是人家的好幾倍,如果有一天,都市環境中可以多一點人騎單車,交通應該會好一點、空氣品質也會乾淨一點點吧。

應有盡有

琉森,一個尺度剛剛好的小城,也是個旅遊資訊便利的城市,車站旁的「i」,免費提供印刷精美的旅遊指南,設計感十足的冊子,裡面從城市的歷史、景點、文化、藝術、購物、各種旅遊所需的資訊(連情色業也有)都詳細記載,最重要的還附了一張立體繪製的詳盡地圖與實用的公車路線圖,可以感受到當地旅遊局的用心,除了行銷自己、也便利遊客。

兩岸情節

搭上18號公車,來到舊城後山的青年旅館,這棟位於住宅區,由舊建物改建的旅館,內部空間寬敞舒適,外觀以簡單的清水混凝土與木板裝飾,工作人員服務親切,還慷慨的讓我們住了二人房(二人房其實是要多付費的),在櫃檯check-in時,又碰巧遇上前二天在Interlaken青年旅館的大陸室友「陳朝暉」,這位把老公、小孩留在大陸,自己隻身在比利時唸經濟的中國人,兩年來也是走遍了歐陸各國。櫃檯服務人員似乎故意挑起二岸情節,他先問大陸人說「你是來自哪裡?」,她回答「China」,然後又問了我們「一樣嗎?」我們連忙回答「不,是台灣。」他又開玩笑的說「那是一樣的嗎?」大陸人說「嗯,當然是一樣的啊」,我們趕緊堅決的撇清關係「不不不,兩個國家當然是完全不一樣的!」。

琉森遊湖

安頓好行李,再搭上公車回到市區,今天,一定要用Swiss Pass去搭船,也不知道該坐往那個景點,隨意登上最近一個班次的大船,告示牌上寫著開往「Vitznau」,船沿著面積很大的琉森湖前進,湖面風光又跟陸地的感受不同,氣溫也明顯降低,陸地上氣溫超過三十度,來到湖中央,有了水氣調節,極舒服的涼意。

大湖邊零零落落的小村落、住家、船塢,湖上面的帆船、私人小艇、人力小船;瑞士人,在這麼熱的天氣裡,悠閒的躺在涼爽的湖邊曬太陽、看書、喝下午茶、打盹,忍不住湖水誘惑的人,乾脆跳入自家前的天然泳池,再不然開著船到湖上溜溜,將船停在湖中間,任由它隨波飄啊飄,真像是電影或小說中的情節,原來真有人過著這種不可思議的快活日子。這時天空中,還有一艘飛行船經過,帶遊客體驗空中的瑞士美景。

湖濱的房子,全都是設計感十足的現代建築,簡單的外觀、大面積的開窗、大面積的露臺、再搭上這麼美的湖景,對照英國老舊的磚材和總是陰暗空間的建築,覺得新鮮無比,每一棟都像是在建築雜誌、室內設計雜誌中才會出現的精采案例。

身為歐陸不靠海的內陸國,瑞士人也嚮往有海邊、有沙灘,竟然可以在湖濱搞出一塊塊的人造沙灘,大湖就當作大海。我們搭火車從南到北,經過好幾個城鎮,都看到同樣的景象,他們竟然喜歡像擠沙丁魚一樣,上空地躺在人造沙灘上享受日光浴。但是看到當地的報紙報導,很多這樣的地方卻成了社會治安的隱憂,白天的戲水活動還好,夜晚狂歡後留下的髒亂環境、遊民、嗑藥族、性愛等亂像,是日趨嚴重的社會問題。

天價Starbucks

搭船遊了一大圈,其中停靠了幾個小站,各個也都是旅遊勝地,很多人上下船,我們原船回到琉森,在碼頭看到二個年輕人手提著Starbucks的紙袋,問了他店的正確位置,他指了碼頭對岸的二棟建築之間說,從那裡進去右轉,然後左轉,我們硬是在那個街區裡,左轉、右轉好幾回合,就是找不到那熟悉的招牌,打算放棄之際,突然發現原來店招牌藏在會反光的玻璃窗裡,進去喝了一杯天價的咖啡冰砂(7.6CHF),買了一只P堅持要買的天價城市馬克杯(20 CHF)。

因為今天是星期假日,幾乎所有商店都不營業,舊城大街上還是好多觀光客,痴傻的對著櫥窗裡頭指指點點,眼神中跟我一樣流露著「很可惜」的表情,這麼有趣的店為什麼不開門呢?只好期待星期一趕緊到來。

由 mrs.turtle 發表於 June 8, 2003 10:18 PM | 引用
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