June 09, 2003

Scenic Switzerland【10】:琉森舊城

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..........德式風格的古蹟與建築,擁有童趣般的鮮明色彩與簡潔俐落的外觀造型,相較於法式的繁瑣華麗、英式的古老沉重,我們還是對德式風格較為偏愛.............

旅程已經進入第八天,天氣依舊好得不像話,應該說是熱的不像話。

中世紀城牆

搭上公車來到環繞舊城外圍的The Musegg Wall,這段建於西元1400年的城牆與塔樓,是瑞士境內保留最完整的中世紀古城牆。我們沿著城牆上或城牆邊漫步,城牆的某些路段已經與當地居民的住宅、街道融為一體,沒有因為開發而把城牆全部拆除,站在塔樓與牆垣上,可以清楚俯瞰整個琉森舊城、琉森湖與附近的群山景色。

德式綠建築

德式風格的古蹟與建築,擁有童趣般的鮮明色彩與簡潔俐落的外觀造型,相較於法式的繁瑣華麗、英式的古老沉重,我們還是對德式風格較為偏愛。尤其現代建築,她們堅持Less is More的設計原則,看似簡單的設計與線條,仔細觀察,其實非常講究建築物的細部設計、環保材料的運用及永續發展的特性,自然通風、採光、遮陽、保溫、散熱及再生能源的利用等,各種適應當地氣候且低耗能的綠建築概念,都充分的落實到一般建築的設計上,使用起來既舒適又省能,讓這些建築物在炎炎夏日裡,毋須借助空調設施,刺骨寒冬也不用大量使用暖氣系統,就讓使用者舒服地在室內活動。難怪德國、奧地利、瑞士等德裔系統的國家,一直在這方面佔有歐洲領先的地位。

英式鬱建築

忍不住又要說說英國的建築,天氣已經夠陰鬱,常常沉悶到令人窒息,他們還是硬把屋子裡搞得昏昏暗暗的,窗簾一定要拉上好幾層,窗戶只能開那一扇小到沒什麼作用的氣窗,她們堅持的理由是要保溫,所以捨棄了通風與採光。英國這塊土地上,一定住著很多憂鬱症的患者。

台式劣建築

台灣的建築環境更不敢領教,一直遵循More is Less的荒謬邏輯,將最重要的氣候適應概念放在最不得已的考量上,也是最不重視再生能源的亞洲國家之一,對於溫室效應及能源危機一點警覺心也沒有。如果台灣的建築師可以在建築設計圖上少畫上兩筆,心思細膩一點,對周圍環境多關心一點,也不會搞出這麼多奇形怪狀的醜陋建築物,但是話說回來,台灣的建築師出自八股的國家考試,也受制於業主,只要蓋岀最大效益的面積即可,誰注重節能還是美觀,周圍環境問題更不再討論範圍之內。

垂死獅子

The Lion Monument,琉森另一個著名的景點,紀念一位瑞士傭兵當初為了外來政權法王路易十六的犧牲,表達對他的忠誠與愚昧的敬意。這頭龐大的石獅,就刻在天然的岩壁上,獅子痛苦的表情極為傳神,背上還刺了一把斷劍,石獅與遊客間隔了一個水池,我們在哪坐了一會兒,只見一團接著一團的遊客,匆匆走來,急忙掏出相機拍一張紀念照,又匆匆離開,很有趣的景象,當然,這其中最多的還是印度人。

往這個景點的街道上,開滿了一間間品質堪慮的紀念品店,店門口還貼著各國語言的廣告海報,歡迎遊客入內選購,當然也少不了繁體中文,甚至還可以看到台灣的國旗呢。

參觀完城牆與石獅,我們迫不及待來到舊城的商店區,想逛逛這些精采的商店,可是,可是,今天怎麼還是關門不營業呢?只有非常少數的幾家紀念品店開著,我們問了其中一家店的老闆娘,才知道今天又是他們的國定假日Whit Monday,這是天意嗎?就是不給我shopping。

木橋塔樓

琉森舊城整個街區保留得非常完整,舊建物改建為一間間的商店,仍然保留原始的建築立面,四通八達的舊城石板街道,幾乎每個轉角就有一個小廣場,我們隨意在其中遊走,不經意來到河邊,看到琉森最著名的標誌「The Water Tower and the Chapel Bridge」,這特殊造型的木造橋與八角形的塔樓,興建於西元1300年,木橋頂蓋的三角型上,有17世紀留下的繪畫,這座歐洲碩果僅存的木造橋,在西元1993年差點全毀於一場大火,所以橋中間有一段是經過重新整修。八角型的塔樓,過去則是藏珠寶與關犯人的地方。

無緣蘇黎世

逛完舊城,回到現代感的琉森車站,搭上IR城市列車,準備前往五十分鐘車程距離的蘇黎士。進入瑞士第一大城的第一眼印象,就是大到不行的火車站Zurich HB,大城果真有大城的氣氛,大、亂、冷漠、不安,再伴隨著室外30℃以上的高溫,視覺與心理的感受都不對盤,商業氣氛濃郁的蘇黎士,與前幾天的自然風光完全不一樣。

我們在Bahnh of Street站前大街上,搭上往青年旅館的市區電車,剛好帶我們繞了一圈最熱鬧的站前大街,下了車,又頂著艷陽走了一段路,終於看到一棟正在整修的YH,都已經心煩氣燥的時候,櫃檯一位非常不友善的晚娘(其實才 20出頭歲吧)卻說「沒有你們的訂房紀錄」,這時真想揍人。那我手上這張從網路上列印下來的訂位紀錄是什麼啊?因為他們網路上的訂房網頁出了問題,結果倒楣的是旅客,更氣人的是「這二天已經客滿了,很抱歉!」這下糟了,在這高物價的瑞士,要上那兒去找經濟旅館,隨便一間旅店一個人一晚都得要價近100法郎。

訂房無效

大熱天的午后,折騰了老半天趕到這裡,卻說訂位無效,真是見鬼。當下決定再搭車回到剛剛離開的琉森,還好火車無限搭乘,距離也不太遠,還是琉森城的人比較可愛,我們在早上才退房的櫃檯又check-in一次,和善的小姐,還是給了四人房只住我們二個人。

還好此行是從法語區的日內瓦入境,對瑞士的第一印象是美好的,如果第一天就來到蘇黎士,不知道對瑞士的觀感還會不會一樣。

這可能又是天意,最終還是有機會回到美麗、親切的琉森,再次走到一樣的超市,買一樣的麵包、沙拉、飲料,最重要的是,我有機會到舊城區shopping了。

由 mrs.turtle 發表於 June 9, 2003 10:22 PM | 引用
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20170725wanglili

wanglili 發表於 July 25, 2017 09:35 AM

阿嬤的珍藏,
我也超懷念這個迷人的城市呀

mrs.turtle 發表於 April 19, 2013 09:24 PM

10年前相同的時間相同的地點我也在這裡受訓,就好喜歡這裡,今天看到照片
就覺得印象好深刻。

我超喜歡這裡的。

阿嬤的珍藏 發表於 April 19, 2013 09:10 PM
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