June 11, 2003

Scenic Switzerland【12】:莎呦拉娜!瑞士

swiss12.jpg

...........你猜,她怎麼回答「No ,no, no , not Swiss, it’s Swedish products, Swiss just has chess, chocolate and kuku-clock.」,妙吧!而且是一付很不削瑞士的驕傲表情...............

瑞士之旅的最後一天,也剛剛好寫完一本手札,如願的在琉森舊城買到一本很酷的黑色筆記本加一支白色筆。回來才知道,在英國要買到一隻白色筆是多麼困難,真是自找麻煩。

雞比鴨強

早上從青年旅館到市區之前,先來到離旅館不遠的不知名湖邊散步,這兒不是著名的風景點,只有附近居民在此悠閒散步、慢跑,周圍環境非常寧靜。琉森往北開的列車會經過湖邊,當然又是P眼中的「鐵道名景」,說什麼也得在這裡等幾列火車經過。等待的同時,我從背包裡拿出二塊蘇格蘭牛油餅乾,剝碎了,丟給湖上的水鴨和白冠水雞,其中一對白冠水雞夫婦還帶著剛會游泳的幼雛,爸爸媽媽總把搶來的食物留給小雞吃,旁邊一群綠頭鴨,看來是這個水池裡的弱勢族群,完全不敢靠近,稍越雷池一步,馬上被水雞兇猛的驅趕開來。

醜小鴨變天鵝

這時候,在遠方看到有食物吃的白色天鵝也加速遊過來湊熱鬧,牠們也是一對夫妻,也帶著二隻小天鵝,這好像是我第一次看到野生小天鵝,驗證了一句話「醜小鴨變天鵝」,怎麼可能這麼美麗、優雅、高貴的天鵝爸爸媽媽,會生出差這麼多的小孩來,灰灰的毛色,實在很難想像幾個月後,牠可以完全脫胎換骨。

連這麼偏僻的角落,都可以看到小學生正在進行戶外教學參觀,老師僱了一艘動力小船,帶著十幾個小朋友,正在進行水上的生態觀察,身歷其境的學習方式,我想老師也不需要講解太多,小朋友看久了自然可以從中體會出一番道理來。

現代教堂

舒服度過了早晨美好時光,搭上公車準備回到市區,途中經過一棟造型特別的現代教堂建築,每天經過二次,今天可是最後的機會,一定要下車仔細瞧瞧。位在河邊的教堂,可以看到遠處的舊城牆景色,純白的外牆,加上現代感的線條,佇立在水邊,搭配著藍天,顯得格外搶眼,也讓教堂的氣氛更鮮明。我們在瑞士看到很多棟類似造型的教堂建築,完全不同於英式教堂所使用的厚重石材,總是給人莊嚴、沉重的感覺。

精緻紙品

我終於趕在搭飛機離開前,有機會逛了琉森的舊城,但是,但是,才逛了一會兒,我的壞朋友竟然選在此時來拜訪我,真是上天的旨意,不讓我在瑞士花錢吧,這幾天前前後後在琉森舊城逛了很多圈,都只能盯著櫥窗看,今天店終於開門營業,我竟然不爭氣的肚子痛,唉!

不過我們還是逛到一家品味獨具的紙類設計專賣店,光是店裡的陳設就夠吸引人,再簡單不過的線條,運用各種五彩的高品質藝術紙,設計成另類的相本、信封信紙、筆記本、包裝紙、電話簿等文具用品,質感好到沒話說,價格當然也高得不像話,不過真是佩服,一般的文具用品也可以是這麼優質。我選購了一本小小的全黑手札和一隻白色的筆,結帳時,我們問了櫃檯的氣質女店員,「這是瑞士產品嗎?」,你猜,她怎麼回答「No ,no, no , not Swiss, it’s Swedish products, Swiss just has chess, chocolate and kuku-clock.」,妙吧!而且是一付很不削瑞士的驕傲表情。

十天的瑞士之旅,終於在此劃下完美的句點,只有在蘇黎士的青年旅館出了點皮漏,還有讓人不敢恭維的高物價,其它一切的一切都令人回味無窮。搭上開往蘇黎士國際機場的SBB火車,依依不捨地跟美麗的瑞士道別。

人性黑暗面

每次到歐陸,使用便宜的EasyJet機票時,總得看盡人性的黑暗面,第一,搶著check-in,因為要取得領先的號碼牌;第二、登機時間一到,搶著入關;第三,搶著上機場接駁巴士;第四,在巴士上,還得搶得可以先下車的好位子,千萬不要坐下,因為車門一開時,才可以領先奔上飛機的空橋;第五,最後,上飛機還得眼明手快的為自己覓得好位置。這時候,平時溫文有禮的英國人,連白髮的老先生老太太在內,全露出猙獰的一面,爾虞我詐、你爭我奪的,好可怕啊!

EasyJet的便宜票,也反應在機身的塗裝上,在蘇黎士機場的停機坪,當它與一整排氣質高雅的瑞士航空並排在一起時,真的覺得搭這班飛機很遜!一種難以形容的廉價感由然而生。瑞士航空雪白的機身,只在尾翼繪上紅底白十字的國旗式樣;EasyJet也是白底,但卻漆上了橘色超大字的EasyJet.com,深怕人家不知道航空公司的名字,這大概只有品味獨具的希臘老闆才想得出來。附帶一提,瑞士的護照設計也別出心裁,規格比一般國家的護照大些,鮮紅色的封面配上白色十字,高雅大方,富設計感。

機長剛剛廣播「現在地面溫度33℃,目的地倫敦天氣多雲,氣溫18℃」,差真多,夏天,還是待在英國比較涼爽宜人吧。

詭譎的倫敦氣氛

剛從先進的瑞士回到英國,一踏進London Luton機場,一切都不太適應,寬敞、明亮、先進,對上狹窄、昏暗、老舊。尤其今天機場氣氛詭譎,四處都是配槍的安全人員與警察,出關時,走在我們前頭的西方人幾乎都被攔下來檢查行李,可能我們看起來就不像壞人,怎麼沒人攔我們呢?連往Luton火車站的區間巴士上,都坐著便衣安全人員拿著無線電,怪可怕的。

瘋狂的英國火車

從Luton回到Sheffield短短的二個小時路程,都在同一條鐵軌上,竟然得換三次車,搞什麼!讓剛剛體驗過瑞士國鐵高級、舒適、便利的我們,實在很不習慣。列車柴油引擎瘋狂的轉動著,發出震耳的聲響,列車與鐵軌之間的摩擦,發出刺耳的金屬聲,有些時候,我得摀住耳朵。車箱內隱藏著無數細菌的骯髒地毯、四處亂丟的垃圾、口香糖、報紙、雜誌,英國人怎麼可以忍受天天搭乘這樣的火車呢?

正值下班時間,乘客幾乎是大倫敦地區的通勤族,每個人面無表情的直視前方,每到一個站,擁擠的月台上,乘客以極快速的步伐前進,但是,這過程中,竟然一點聲音也沒有,有如恐怖電影中的情節,這些人像是被外星人給控制了,個個鐵青一張臉,在毫無聲響的月台,只有急促的腳步聲。

難怪在瑞士青年旅館遇到的一位原籍澳洲的老太太,她嫁給英國人,一輩子住在倫敦,二年前先生退休後,他們搬回澳洲養老,她說了一句「感謝上帝,讓我離開那個冷漠的鬼地方。」對於去過幾回倫敦的我們,大概可以稍稍體會她的感受,但是從她的言談中,我感受到,她也是個標準的倫敦人-冷漠、驕傲。

在瑞士搭火車,月台上的站務人員很少,旅客可以輕易辨識上車、下車、轉車,絕少看到徬徨無助的緊張樣,重要的是列車準點,接駁的班車也只需要等待幾分鐘,新穎的列車車門當然是全自動的,只要列車長一吹哨,按個按鈕,整列車的車門同時關上,迅速的駛離。(我們的自強號也是這樣啊)

在英國,所有的情況剛好顛倒,月台上總是好多穿著制服的服務人員(難怪人事成本這麼高),火車進站、離站時,一定可以看到站務人員不停的吹哨,大喊「請到那一個月台換車。往哪裡的車子快要開了。」然後看到一群驚慌失措的旅客,頻頻詢問,就連英國人自己也常常搞不清楚。時間到,列車長吹哨,站務人員必須一一關上那純手動的車門,這時候,即使車門已經關上,火車準備啟動,有遲到的旅客匆忙跑過來,仁慈的英國人還是會再開門讓他上車,就這樣,這裡誤幾分鐘,那裡誤幾分鐘,每一站都誤幾分鐘,最後到終點站,誤差個一小時也不誇張。

如果這樣的品質,票價賣便宜一點也就罷了,高物價的瑞士,火車票價當然不便宜,但是有理可尋,距離越遠越貴,來回當然比單程貴,早點買跟晚點買也不至於差價太離譜,一切都是正常人可以想到的邏輯。在英國,我買了一年的火車票,還是搞不清楚他的邏輯是什麼,距離近的可能比較貴,來回票可能比單程票便宜,前後一天買的票,可能價差五倍,所以一個車廂五十個座位,可能有五十種不同的票價,火車公司這群設計票務的人,頭腦真的不簡單,絕不是一般常人可以勝任的。

英國,還真不是個簡單可以理解的國家,我想我們還是適合邏輯清楚的德裔系統。

由 mrs.turtle 發表於 June 11, 2003 10:27 PM | 引用
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mixedracial 發表於 October 1, 2005 05:40 AM
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