September 13, 2002

德意志【2】:昔日東柏林--城中區Mitte

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一大早就被街道上隆隆的汽車聲、電車聲、人聲給吵醒,我們住的地方是個交通繁忙的十字路口,柏林的上班族、學生忙著買早餐、買報紙、搭地鐵、搭公車、搭電車,準備迎接一天的新生活,喜歡都市真實生活的一面。我們當然也趕緊跳下床,迫不及待想看看柏林長什麼模樣,買了一張6.1歐元的地鐵Day Ticket,準備出發囉!

東柏林的早晨

「Mitte」是昔日的東柏林,東西德統一之後,經過完善的都市規畫,正一步步以嶄新的面貌迎接世人,其實這範圍不大的城中區,充分展現了從普魯士帝國、威馬共和、納粹極權到共黨專政的德國近代史。

我們第一站來到柏林大教堂,教堂位在施普雷河的博物館島之上,雖然名為「河中之島」,但是島上有太多橋樑連接,不知不覺已跨過河岸來到島上。這座新古典樣式的教堂建築規模宏偉,青銅芎頂是柏林顯著的地標,大概時間還早,沒見到幾名觀光客,我們可以悠閒的散步、盡情的拍照,僅見到一車車的旅行團巴士,載著一群群的觀光客,由導遊在車上解說『這就是柏林大教堂,……』,然後就開走了,前後不到三分鐘光景吧。這種跟團方式的旅行,因為趕時間、趕行程,無法多停留,還是自己走比較自由自在。

河岸上招攬觀光客的遊艇還沒開張,船夫還在清洗船艙擦拭玻璃,準備開始一天的營業,我們沿著河岸走,城中區很多地方仍在進行改建整修的大型工程,到處都是施工圍籬,城市風景雖然混亂,卻有一種正在參與歷史的感覺,從圍籬中看事物,好像看到她正在努力脫繭而出的力量。

博物館島

來到博物館島上最著名的帕加蒙博物館(Pergamon museum),這可是世界上最著名的考古學博物館之一,裡頭的鎮館之寶「帕加蒙大祭壇」,加上古希臘、古羅馬、巴比倫、伊斯蘭、中東的各類藝術、建築蒐藏而聞名。早上十點鐘開館前,已經有許多遊客在門前排隊等著入內參觀,看了旅遊書上的形容,還不覺得特別新奇,到了現場看到這些超大尺寸的館藏品,分散在館內十四個大型展覽廳,絕對讓參觀者驚嘆不已。

其中最醒目的帕加蒙大祭壇的基座長達102公尺,這是西元前180年特洛伊古城人民獻給雅典娜女神的大禮,上面有精采的希臘雕刻,敘述著一個個神話故事。最不可思議的是,這座祭壇在地底下深埋了上千年,西元1864年在今天的土耳其被德國考古學家挖掘出土,西元1903年由原地搬遷過來,中間又經過兩次世界大戰,幾乎將現址的博物館島夷為平地,各館的收藏品被各國爭相掠奪,這巨大的祭壇當然也不能倖免,被蘇聯紅軍整座遷移到莫斯科,東西德統一後,西元1990年才又回到原址。我想,二千多年來曲折離奇的命運,應該仍未終止,有一天,她應該會回到她原來的土地。

館內還有幾座巨大的遺址,皆是德國考古學家分別在伊拉克、敘利亞、土耳其等地挖掘出土,搬回博物館內再一磚一瓦重建起來,令人敬佩的專業考古研究。但是,有點想不透,為什麼這麼珍貴的古代藝術品,考古出土的國家會同意讓它們搬遷到德國呢?或許是迫於強權壓境的無奈吧!

我們的第一家YH

加快腳程參觀完這座巨型博物館,趕緊回到旅館check-out,真是捨不得離開這麼好的住宿環境。接下來我們要搬到位在西柏林的Youth Hostel,轉了二趟地鐵,走了簡介上說的五分鐘,實際上是十五分鐘的路程,拖著二個小黑,來到柏林的青年旅館,建築物外在環境很好,但是,但是,硬是把我們兩個給分開了,還住在不同棟建築物,那我們打包在一起的行李怎麼辦呢?錢都已經付了,也不能退房,只好將就幾天。我的老天,要在這裡住三晚,這麼吵雜又沒有隱私的地方,以後非不得已不再選擇青年旅館,但它又是自助旅行者最經濟的考量。

Check in就讓我們排隊排了半個多小時,領了床單、被單、枕頭套(要自己裝,離開要自己拆),到了小小擁擠的房間,放下行李,煮了一壺熱水(歐洲青年旅館不提供飲水,所以我們自己帶了旅行用小電壺),來碗香噴噴的統一滿漢大餐,繼續我們下午的行程。

建築實驗場

東西柏林的交界處,在以前分峙的時代,是最偏僻無人煙的一區,統一之後,這裡卻成了都市的新寵,新的建築物一棟一棟竄起,全是赫赫有名的建築大師作品,之前只是在書本上或電視上見過,現在有機會親眼一睹她的風采。有機建築大師夏隆的柏林愛樂音樂廳、菠茨坦廣場附近充滿現代科技感的Sony Center、賓士車在德國最大的展示室(可以看到所有車型、所有顏色與樣式)、還有正在興建中的許多大型工程。

這一區幾乎是全新的建築群,簡直就像個建築的巨型實驗場,充斥著各種可能,這些建築風貌在台灣幾乎是不會存在的,這些歷練的建築設計,決不是能蓋出中台禪寺那種誇張大廟的李祖源可以辦到的。除了設計之外,更要有高科技的營造團隊,挑戰最新的建築技術。P當然是仔細瞧認真看,猛按他的快門。

經過菠茨坦廣場,往柏林地標「布蘭登堡門」的一路上全在施工,幾十公尺高的工程吊臂,幾十支長長的大手,同時在空中揮來轉去,正在為這個城市注入新的生命力,之前看過報導,有位舞蹈家,曾經以柏林為舞台,施工的吊臂為舞者,在城市中演出一場「吊臂之舞」,我現在終於能體會這種感覺。但是,柏林市政府卻沒有為每天這麼多的觀光客,規劃出一條乾淨易行的人行道,所以整路塵土飛揚,很掃興。

德國象徵施工中

在布蘭登堡門前的一個小廣場上,驚艷的看到圍成一大圈圓的「熊」,熊原本是柏林的代表,而這個圓圈裡的每隻熊代表著一個國家,圖案爭奇鬥豔,各國來的觀光客爭相在自己國家的熊前拍照留念。只可惜,不知道什麼時候才能看到寫著Taiwan的熊,讓我也可以拍照留念,加油吧!台灣,希望有一天你會出現在這裡。

走了許久,就為那豎立在東西柏林交界處的著名地標「布蘭登堡門」,此刻它竟然封起來整修,只剩下頂端的勝利女神與馬車。這裡以前也是柏林圍牆的重要關卡,圍牆早已不見痕跡,附近全是新興的建築物,往東邊走,沿著主要街道「菩提樹大道」,許多國家的大使館新建在此區,可以看到許多國旗飄揚。其中,美國大使館前,因為911一週年剛過,在拒馬前還擺著很多民眾獻的鮮花與紀念照片,氣氛突然變的凝重,還有一男一女的德國大兵,佩帶著M16步槍,以很凶狠的眼神,但是懶散的站在那裡。

東柏林Sightseeing

城中區的重要景點幾乎分佈在菩提樹下大道沿途,另有一條與它垂直的「腓特烈大街」,是個新興的商業區,整齊劃一的街道,有許多國際品牌在此設店,還有巴黎著名的拉法葉百貨,但是整條街看起來冷冰冰的,沒有一般商業區的熱鬧喧鬧。城中區,給我們的感覺竟是一個「好冷清的首都」。

腓特烈大街直通「Checkpoint Charlie」,查理檢查哨是東西德分立時期進出的重要關卡,二次大戰後,由戰勝國接管,是美國陸軍駐守的檢查哨,所以寫著斗大的「US ARMY」,現在則成了觀光客拍照的地方,路旁還有販賣共黨時代的紀念品的小販,兜售紅軍的帽子、俄羅斯娃娃、軍用品等。

與腓特烈大街相隔一條街的「根達美廣場」,這個由法國教堂、德國教堂、柏林交響樂團音樂廳三大建築物所構成的古典建築群,號稱是柏林最美麗的廣場,我們坐在那兒端詳許久,怎麼看也不覺得她特別美麗。可能是走了一天實在疲累,沒有好心情來欣賞,坐在廣場前休息時,還碰到一群年輕韓國人過來用韓文交談,拜託一下,我們長得像韓國人嗎?

再度回到菩提樹下大道,經過超大型的福斯汽車集團展示室,P當然是不會放過,走進去想要索取印製精美的汽車型錄,我們運氣真好,碰到一位非常和善的服務小姐,很慷慨的拿了所有車子的型錄給他,怕我們拿不動,還給了我們一只手提袋。可惡,才第二天,P就讓行李多了厚重的汽車型錄。不過,厚厚的德國汽車型錄,每一本都像是精美的書籍,絕對有收藏價值。福斯集團將旗艦展示室設在首都柏林,包含福斯、奧迪、保時捷、班特力、喜悅、SKODA,無疑是要向世人展示她們引以為傲的產品,將汽車當作一種德國形象來經營,而不僅是服務德國的購車民眾。

歐陸第一趟的自助旅行,貪心的走了太多路,兩隻腳已經不聽使喚,但是想看的東西實在太多。又累又餓的我們,看不懂餐廳裡的德文菜單,漫無目的的走往腓特烈地鐵站,在地鐵站入口,意外發現一家生意很好的土耳其「莎威馬」小館,比手畫腳的點了一份來填填肚子,不知道是不是太餓,還是真的好吃,餅皮是手工現烤的,便宜、好吃、份量夠,跟台灣賣的口感完全不同。

期待明天的西柏林!

由 mrs.turtle 發表於 September 13, 2002 03:52 PM | 引用
迴響

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HXY3.28 發表於 March 28, 2017 03:39 PM

德朵夫人你好
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不曉得您是否有興趣參與?

謝謝。

--
Kindest Regards,
Editor
Chienwei Wang

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城邦出版人 麥浩斯資訊股份有限公司 La Vie雜誌

Email: chienwei_wang@hmg.com.tw
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chienwei wang 發表於 February 15, 2008 03:46 AM
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