September 14, 2002

德意志【3】:兩個世界--西柏林

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.........P的德國同學「馬汀」,是他強烈建議我們一定要來柏林,讓我們有機會認識這個歷史上重要的城市,她的歷史、她的藝術、她的建築、她的新生命、當然還有她的冷酷,都是我們的美好記憶,也給了我們強烈的文化衝擊...........

柏林的觀光客,東方面孔似乎是少數。走在路上或搭乘地鐵,表情酷的跟德國足球隊守門員「卡恩」一樣的德國人,總是盯著你看,尤其昔日的東柏林這一區為甚。

都市叢林

走在新穎現代化的Sony Center建築群旁,隔著一條馬路,馬上遁入都市叢林中的小徑,這座落於市中心的蒂爾公園,佔地非常廣大,十七世紀時是帝王狩獵區,公園裡滿佈迷宮般的大小步道,路徑的鋪面是非常原始的泥土路,完全沒有任何人工添加設施,路兩旁則是高聳入雲的擎天大樹,一踏進這兒,彷彿真的遠離喧囂繁華的都市。其實它被整個柏林包圍其中,這裡是市民散步、快走、騎腳踏車的好去處,當然也是遊人在都市中尋幽的好所在。

Capital again:國會大廈

位於公園北側,是此行最想參觀的「德國國會大廈」,這座曾經受到納粹、戰火嚴重摧殘的仿文藝復興式建築,東西德統一之後,經過英國著名建築師Sir Norman Foster的重新整建,現在是德國聯邦議會的所在地。

建築師的創新靈感,讓一棟幾乎殘破的舊建物,重新有了生命,規劃的主要概念是「人民在國家之上,國家應以人民為主」。因此將國會上的圓頂設計為透明玻璃,可以讓人行走於議席之上,意在監督政府,圓頂內部正中央有一柱可自動調整不同角度的反射鏡子,除了可以透視國會議員開會的情形,最主要的用意在於將透明拱頂四週的自然天光均勻導入議事席,讓白天大部分的時間不用藉助人造光源,因此能夠節省一筆十分可觀的能源耗費。P說,這個神奇的柱子還可藉由所謂的「煙囪效應」,讓建築物的換氣通風完全不用電就可以自然循環,非常省能的綠建築。拱頂四周的屋頂平台更可以供遊客鳥瞰整個柏林市。

這個成功的案例,不但提供國家議會一個全新的現代化高科技內部空間,外觀也保有舊建築的精神。難能可貴的是,她提供觀光客免費入內參觀,藉此向世人宣揚德意志聯邦,所以這裡開放時間總是大排長龍,等著進去朝聖。

我們在等待的隊伍中枯站了一個多小時,通過一道道充滿設計感與安全性考量的玻璃門,經過比在機場更嚴格的X光安檢,才得以搭乘40人的巨型電梯,直通玻璃圓頂。獨一無二的設計的確讓人驚艷,尤其圍繞圓頂內側的緩坡道,精準的設計,讓上去與下去的路徑錯落,參觀者的秩序一點都不衝突,也可以慢慢欣賞每一面反光鏡的角度。屋頂平台在四個角落插著四大面的德國黑紅黃國旗,映在藍天中,顯得特別雄偉。

逗留很久,捨不得的搭乘下樓電梯離去。其實台灣也擁有許多精采的舊建築,之前因為採訪工作,有機會參觀監察院、台北賓館、菸酒公賣局總局等一些日據時代的重要官方建築,這些建物同樣有她獨特魅力與精采可期之處,如果相關單位可以妥善規劃與再利用,相信也可以更豐富都市的內涵,也讓外國人有機會認識台灣真正美麗的所在。但我們的文化主管機關,似乎跟恐龍一般,總是後知後覺。

此行收穫最多的應該是P,當初之所以選擇到英國唸建築的重要考量之一,就是有更多機會到歐洲各大城市走走瞧瞧,驗證以前在書本上唸的,也接受新的衝擊與觀念,尤其親眼目睹大師級的建築作品時,連我都很感動呢!

六月十七日大道

我們沿著「六月十七日大道」往西柏林真正熱鬧的商業區前進,寬敞筆直的一條大道,貫穿整個蒂爾公園,這裡以前是連接王宮與夏洛滕堡宮的官道,兩旁的公園綠地上,好多柏林市民在草地上野餐、騎單車、散步,享受週末的悠閒時光。我們幾乎走了四、五公里的路,從天晴走到天陰,一早的藍天白雲,突然開始刮大風。

天價火車票

我們先到柏林最主要的「動物園火車站」,準備買往後幾天旅程的火車聯票,運氣不好,英文諮詢的櫃檯週六竟然放假,看不懂德文的徬徨,真讓我們心情跌到谷底,連車站裡少數的英語時刻表與購票說明也都被拿光了,這下該怎麼辦呢?只好跟著人家排隊,售票員應該可以通英語吧?

從柏林到法蘭克福一張ICE單程票就要106歐元,我們還是決定買一個月可以搭五天的德國火車聯票(DB Pass),雙人票要價337歐元,這還是只賣給持有外國護照的觀光客,已經算是比較經濟的票價。在歐洲旅行,機票費用事小,火車票才是最驚人的一筆開銷,這還不包含訂位費用,每一趟旅程還要再另付5.2歐元,你才會有保留位。

廁所管理員

花了好久的時間、好大的力氣,終於把往後幾天的車票給搞定,來到車站對面的麥當勞解決午餐,番茄醬要另外加錢就罷,上廁所竟然還要付費,真是不解。走了幾天漸漸才發現,在德國旅行,如果你膀胱功能不佳,「如廁費」也會是一筆不小的開銷,連百貨公司內的都要錢。她們有一種行業,「在廁所前設攤收錢」,這些人穿著一身白袍,擺一張鋪著白色桌巾的桌子,上面放著一個白色的盤子,讓你丟錢進去,價錢從0.3到0.8歐元不等,廁所裡頭更神奇,還會有一位拿著抹布的人,鐵青的一張臉,在每個人使用過後,馬上進去擦拭馬桶,喔,真是麻煩!

紊亂西柏林

西柏林的城市風貌與昨天的東柏林完全不同,市容紊亂、人種也複雜,讓你走在街道上會有一種強烈的不安全感,我們隨意在最繁榮的大街上閒逛,才剛進入第二家百貨公司,就來一長串完全聽不懂的廣播,然後看到一堆人快速的往外擠,搞清楚狀況後才知道,原來是營業時間終了,天啊,現在才下午四點,還是黃金週末,就這樣不顧大街上的擁擠人群,無情的把店門給關了,倫敦至少在週末會延長營業時間到晚上七、八點,真是太不人性了。

偏偏這時候下起滂沱大雨,我們的傘放在旅館裡沒帶出來,只好跟大家擠在幾乎沒有騎樓的街道旁先躲一下!

尼古拉區

就這樣草草結束了我們認識西柏林的機會,說實在,不太喜歡這個熱鬧、混亂的城區。所以再次決定坐地鐵回到寧靜的東柏林,這會兒來到柏林最早的發源地「尼古拉區」,這裡有一座磚造的紅色市政廳、柏林最古老的教堂,最令我們驚喜的,原來這裡也經過完善規劃,保留了原始的鵝卵石步道,整區規劃為行人徒步區,彎彎曲曲的街道旁,一家家精緻可愛的藝品店、餐館,每一個街角都給你一個驚喜,是個很值得拜訪的地方。

旅行的刺激

這趟德國行,真的要感謝P的德國同學「馬汀」,是他強烈建議我們一定要來柏林,讓我們有機會認識這個歷史上重要的城市,她的歷史、她的藝術、她的建築、她的新生命、當然還有她的冷酷,都是我們的美好記憶,也給了我們強烈的文化衝擊,對於漸漸適應英國生活的我們來說,又接觸了一個完全不同的國度,雖然沒認識幾個大字,但是用眼睛看、用心領會,也給我們不少收穫。

由 mrs.turtle 發表於 September 14, 2002 02:19 PM | 引用
迴響

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mt0108

aaa 發表於 January 8, 2018 04:03 PM
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