November 20, 2004

倫敦日記

turtleamy.jpg
連P都會認錯的背影

......難得見到倫敦藍的這麼徹底的天空,一絲絲白雲都沒有,原本已經坐在C1公車上的我們,趕緊跳下車,決定徒步享受倫敦冷冽清新的早晨......

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Sloane Street

為了那£1的巴士票,得挨著天寒地凍早起,清晨五點半頂著0℃的低溫,拖著行李走路到Interchange,因為電車、公車都還沒營業,更不可能半路攔到計程車。六點十五分往倫敦的巴士居然滿座,這些人這麼早趕到倫敦做什麼啊!

昨天傍晚的一場大雪,積雪仍厚,夜色中賞雪,倒是特別的體驗。長途巴士一路往南,在Chesterfield上M1高速公路時,約早上七點,天當然還是黑一片,這時候,東方天空的雲彩,已經開始出現橘紅色的漸層,道路兩旁的山丘披上一層厚厚的白色雪衣,搭配枯樹枝、小房子,早起的人家點亮了室內燈光,在灰暗中閃閃爍爍,這場景就像是卡通片裡繪的一樣,夢幻的有些不真實,這還是我第一次在英國見到這麼厚、這麼廣的積雪。

P耐不住瞌睡蟲,我卻頻頻喚醒他「這裡好美啊,快看!快看!」只見他張眼敷衍一下又睡著了。我試圖拍下眼前的美景,但是巴士晃啊晃的,天色又黑,只得作罷。此時的M1居然已經出現車陣長龍,原來英國人這麼早通勤上班。

夜色的雪景之後,更幸運地,看到我在英國的第一次日出,日出前的天空幻化難以形容,顏色豐富多彩,變幻快速,隨著太陽緩緩升起,東方天空漸白,太陽像個火球一樣,閃亮刺眼的金邊,讓人無法直視;西方天空也沒閒著,對應出粉紫色的詭異色彩。

一路東張西望,看見一整顆太陽浮出東方陸地之後,實在也累了,忍不住也打起盹來。半夢半醒之間,路旁仍舊是厚厚的積雪,不知道昨天的雪最南飄到了哪個城市,最後清醒時,看到Leicester也是一片白。今年冬天,一定有機會遇見幾場大雪,好期待。

一路睡到倫敦的維多利亞巴士站,勉強醒過來,一下車,馬上被攝人的寒氣給逼醒,路上的倫敦人、觀光客,全都全副武裝戴起帽子手套禦寒。難得見到倫敦藍的這麼徹底的天空,一絲絲白雲都沒有,原本已經坐在C1公車上的我們,趕緊跳下車,決定徒步享受倫敦冷冽清新的早晨。

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Sloane Square

Sloane Square的噴水池上,幾隻不畏寒冷的鴿子,正在用力的洗澡戲水,一旁賣花的花販站在陽光處取暖看報。這時候遊客還不多,街角Tiffany店裡的清潔工認真的擦拭玻璃,準備開店營業。一路往Sloane Street走,這條街道是倫敦著名的精品大街,所有你想得到的頂級品牌全在這兒,就是那種連門口保全都不屑看你一眼的服飾店、皮件店、珠寶店,不過,光是欣賞這一家家精緻的櫥窗,嗅出當下正在流行什麼,也是一種自娛的趣味。

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LOUIS VUITTON

終於在Harrods門口看到四個月不見的Amy,每次約在倫敦見面,原本打算去哪裡的計畫一定泡湯,多日不見的姊妹,總有聊不完的話題,在咖啡館一坐下來,足以耗掉大半天。冬日的倫敦,天黑的早,四點鐘早已不見陽光,我們轉車來到大英博物館閒逛了一會兒。

旅館在希斯羅機場附近,晚飯後我們得麻煩的搭地鐵、換公車。地鐵站裡碰上一位義大利女孩,這位在倫敦上了三個星期語文課程的年輕女孩,居然問我們該怎麼搭地鐵到機場,得知我們也要到機場,硬是要跟我們同行,原來她準備去機場接來渡週末的男友,今天是她的生日,男友特地從義大利飛來幫她慶生,結果義大利機場罷工,班機從早上延誤到晚上十點鐘才抵達。

這位英文不是很溜的姑娘,滔滔不絕的跟P從Leicester Square地鐵站,一路講到Terminal123機場站(連義大利學生上課不認真、不寫家課、遲到翹課的情形,都一一描述),途中地鐵走走停停,又要我們中途下車、換車、等候,整車的乘客全都不知所措的東奔西跑,一會兒上車、一會兒下車。她說在倫敦上課地點離住的地方只有五站,有時得花五十分鐘才會到達,更扯的是,早上她去買了生日蛋糕,也被困在地鐵內許久。(P說,今天這個叫"悽悽亞"的女孩,還真是"帶賽",連我們都被波及。)倫敦地鐵的效能大概還停留在百年前興建的時候吧,忘了地面上的時空已經來到21世紀。

回到旅館,停車場上的車頂全都結了一層硬硬的冰,還好,商務旅館裡舒適溫暖的房間,讓我們迅速暖了身子,在外頭凍了一整天,實在不好受。舒服的床、溫暖的被、嘩拉拉的熱水、還有妹妹帶來滿屋子的台灣美食,真是爽一個字。

隔天一早,一頓豐富的全套英式早餐(培根、香腸、炸土司、薯餅、荷包蛋、蛋糊、蘑菇、各式麵包、各式果醬、各式水果、各式優格、養樂多、果汁、紅茶、咖啡),在英國難得可以這麼痛快的吃到飽,吃一餐的飽足感幾乎可以撐到晚餐,又是一個字「爽」。下雨天的星期六,我們窩在溫暖的旅館裡,跟妹妹商量她的婚事細節,跟猶豫不決的天秤座討論事情,真是苦了果決的魔羯座,無奈我從小到大都得忍受,現在還加了一個天秤老公,真是服了我自己。

下午二點半,拖著36公斤的食物,再度搭公車、換地鐵,回到倫敦搭巴士。今天的巴士司機是個「假的」,大概是週末心情好,在中途換班之後,這位司機仍精神奕奕,竟拿出他的MP3機器,然後打開麥克風,問大家想要聽60年代、70年代還是80年代的歌曲,歡迎點歌,就這樣放起70年代的搖滾樂,播了一小段之後,他似乎覺得不過癮,又拿起麥克風「有人在睡覺嗎?需不需要再大聲一點!」然後高分貝的一路搖滾到Sheffield。讓原本安靜死寂的National Express長途巴士瞬時變成了觀光遊覽車,另一位開車的司機也沒閒著,快接近Chesterfield時,也用幽默的口吻說「約15-20分鐘會抵達Chesterfield,如果需要叫計程車的現在可以打電話了,如果你要向本公司抱怨這趟旅程,我的名字是xxx。」語畢,全車乘客在搖滾樂聲中哄堂大笑。

週末的Coach,司機也瘋狂。不過能在工作中自娛娛人,真好。

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Harrods 2004 聖誕紀念熊

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mrs.turtle 發表於 May 10, 2007 10:56 PM

不好意思,问一下
最后两张照片,不是最近拍的吧
因为,我在我朋友的BLOG上早就看过了........

Miya 發表於 May 9, 2007 01:00 PM

你的照片很優秀
不只是構圖,還有色調
風格獨具

mixedrace 發表於 July 30, 2006 02:07 AM

阿貴你好
我是fish
我86期墾解 86期管叫我“大姊頭“
我男友是86期“處長和“
很開心認識你喔
你有上過林益仁的課嗎?他以前在世新時我們常常見面呢

working holiday?
我曾寫過一篇“志工旅遊“的文章
也很想去參加看看
不過你的六十天生態之旅
好像目標還不夠明確
多找點資料 再問我姐 她是寶庫啊

fish 發表於 November 28, 2004 04:19 AM


夏天是英國最好的旅行季節
不冷不熱 日照時間長
60天?? 哇哩咧 第一次聽到這麼多天的行程
只是很好奇 生態之旅 為什麼選擇英國??

國家公園的部分
最熟悉的當然就是在我們附近的The Peak District
這是我們週末健行的好去處
有幾百條步道可以走 這裡沒有太多外籍觀光客 好地方
Lake District呢 著名的景點"湖區" 當然不能錯過
英格蘭西南的Cornwall附近 有Dartmoor Exmoor也是不錯的地方
北英格蘭的North York Moors也不賴 還有蒸氣火車可以搭
以上這些我們去過
聽說北威的Snowdonia也是個不能錯過的好地方

The National Trust的working holiday也值得一試
行家喔 連這個都知道
可以實際參與一些保存保護的工作 具有深遠的環境教育意義

至於地方組織 可以參考一下各地的Wildlife Trust
這數量實在太多 也不知道該如何推薦起
請你自己慢慢研究 ^_^
RSPB 鳥會應該也有一些活動可以參與

蘇格蘭有一種跟著船長航海的行程
沿著蘇格蘭沿岸航行 每天會停靠一個小港口補給或洗澡
吃住都在船上 一星期 二星期 據參加過的朋友說"很讚"

Shetland & Orkney
那是一定要去的啦
可以先看一下我的遊記
(在Turtle UK報 travel裡面 有詳述這兩個島)

兩個月想把英國走一圈
還早咧
在這裡已經快兩年 半圈都還沒走完
一輩子也走不完吧 很多值得造訪的地方
自己抉擇一下囉

Turtle 發表於 November 25, 2004 02:53 PM

兩位版主好阿:
另一位版主Fish跟我一樣是墾丁義解喔,真巧!!
Fish是第幾期的ㄋ?而你是玉解,都算是對生態接觸的同好
我在修正聚焦我的問題好了
我預計明年七月到九月之間(60天左右)到英國作生態之旅
目的1.走訪國家公園和動植物保留區
2.參與1-2個由national trust 在各地舉辦的生態假期
(working holiday)行程
3.尋找一個地方保育組織參訪/參與地方地方保育組織所推
動的保育活動!!
4.想去你提到的Shetland & Orkney 這兩個極北的島嶼
看看!!

以上是我的目的和想法!!請問你有建議的地點嗎??
我想這一趟把英國走一圈了吧!!


阿貴 發表於 November 25, 2004 09:25 AM

阿貴啊

嘿嘿 這個版的另一位版主Fish也是墾丁義解喔
我呢是玉山義解的逃兵 太久沒去服勤了 >0
以前大學也曾經聽過你們陳玉峰老師的課呢

你這個問題還真是粉難回答
英國的人文部份 不需贅言 到處都是
來這兒主要就是看歷史
隨便走到哪個城市都有西元一世紀羅馬人的遺跡

自然生態的部分呢 就比較難
因為不知道你的行程 天數 目的
所以建議你先參考一下
National Park
The National Trust
UNESCO in UK
RSPB
(這個網站的左下角有一些相關連結 可以試試)
另外許多保留區 保護區 都是地方組織經營管理
很難一一介紹 就看你想看什麼囉
目前為止 我去過值得稱讚的地方
就是Shetland & Orkney 這兩個極北的島嶼
有Puffin 有海豹 讚讚讚 是個動物比人多的地方
但是好遠好遠

從台灣來 看慣了大山大水 豐富林相 豐富物種
別對這高緯度島嶼有過多期望
但是這裡對於國家公園 保護區 保留區 歷史遺跡的保存.保護.經營管理 是非常值得深入研究的

有任何問題 別客氣 我盡量回答

Turtle 發表於 November 24, 2004 07:38 PM

版主大大你好:
我在查詢英國的景點中無意間看到你這個版
大該瀏覽一下,是一個很棒的站耶
我在台灣唸生態學研究所
預計要去英國作生態旅行一趟
看你日誌,好像你也對生態蠻有研究和興趣的
可否就你了解
給我一些英國地區可以參訪的自然生態和人文旅遊地點ㄋ
--
劉文貴(阿貴)
墾丁國家公園90期義務解說員
靜宜大學生態學研究所研究生
Graduate School of Ecology
Providence University, Taiwan
Mobile:0926-005549
E-mail:g9216021@pu.edu.tw
Msn:wkliou@hotmail.com

請問一下喔... 發表於 November 24, 2004 05:57 PM

Fish
有沒有搞錯啊
姊姊我連去ZARA都刷不下去耶
不過你妹妹刷了一套 哈哈
誰要P沒有只拍到熊特寫的照片
我只好犧牲自己露下巴
這隻熊60鎊 要不要來一隻啊
你有沒有發現Amy的文筆粉讚
好像在寫電影腳本
跟你阿娘一樣

Turtle 發表於 November 24, 2004 05:40 PM

這次去心情真有點複雜
踓然早有心裡準備受病魔纏身己久的外公隨時會離開
不過在攝氏二度加上十多個小時的飛行
真有點不知所措
望著外頭冷到快結冰的雨
我的視線也漸漸模糊了起來
車上眾人的嘻笑聲慢慢轉成無聲的狀態

直到打回家 聽到媽媽的聲音
一切才回到正常
看到半年沒見的姐姐和姐妹淘姐夫
好像所有的事先留在台灣
隔天同事見到我
問我: 你忘了哦

amy 發表於 November 24, 2004 06:46 AM


原來英國也有這麼可愛ㄉ司機

你和amy是紅白姊妹花啊
每次都穿一樣羽毛衣
下次去 LV 給它刷下去

我發現
此站三點不露
只露背影和下巴ㄝ

fish 發表於 November 24, 2004 02:02 AM
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