December 04, 2004

趕集去!Christmas Market in Lincoln

market-05.jpg

早聞林肯市(Lincoln)的耶誕市集很著名、也很熱鬧,今年在朋友吆喝下,終於有機會到現場體驗一下這個號稱是「歐洲最大」的Christmas Market(英國人也太誇張,什麼都可以冠上歐洲最大,這次當然不再上當)。

market-01.jpg market-07.jpg market-04.jpg
(點小圖可放大觀賞)

話說1982年,幾位林肯的市議員拜訪了德國的姊妹市Neustadt之後,把這個城市的Christmas Market模式給漂竊回來,從第一年的14個攤位開始,發展到今年第23屆,已經是個超過300個攤位的大規模市集,想像起來的確很值得期待。

早上八點岀門,天色仍暗,東方日出的粉紫色雲層讓人精神振奮,期待這會是個適合逛市集的好天氣。

Sheffield火車站的1b月台上,比平常多了好幾倍的人潮,想必跟我們一樣要趕赴林肯的耶誕市集。這時道貌岸然的英國人又流露岀人性貪婪面,火車才一進站,大家伺機搶位子,一陣爭先恐後的擠上車。一個多小時的路程,越接近目的地車箱裡越擁擠,已經可以感受到熱鬧氣氛了。

這是第三次拜訪林肯,一走岀火車站,跟著人潮往High Street的山丘方向走去,人群從四面八方湧現,路旁也開始出現應景的攤位、街頭表演團體。在狹窄陡斜的鵝卵石小徑上,似乎只能往前走,人實在多,終於來到山頂上的城堡教堂區,只見人山人海不斷在眼前湧過來湧過去,一不小心同伴就馬上被人群給沖散。

market-10.jpg    market-13.jpg    market-09.jpg

一開始在Castle Hill廣場時,我們還拼命的想擠進攤位前,看看賣了些什麼新奇玩意兒,進入城堡裡面時,門口這一攤遠從德國Neustadt來的攤位FFN,據說是不能錯過,但是一杯紅酒加一塊德國硬麵包,實在引不起興趣。我們貢獻了£2給隔壁賣現炸馬鈴薯片的攤位,因為那樣子看起來好像台灣小吃「炸粿」(讓我幻想可以吃到道地的南投阿珠炸粿,有蘿蔔糕、地瓜、芋頭、蚵嗲、韭菜捲……,再加一碗豆腐蘿蔔湯,實在是讚),當然只是我的幻想,結果這裡的£2只有油膩的炸薯片沾甜甜的蘋果泥。

market-03.jpg    market-08.jpg    market-11.jpg

market-12.jpg時間接近中午,人潮更多,在城堡的廣場裡,我們幾乎別無選擇的只能往前進,再也看不到攤位裡賣的是什麼東西,再也沒興致跟人擠進去看,不就是那些粗糙又昂貴的耶誕飾品,還有一攤攤看起來一點都不可口的飲食,看到官方網頁介紹還寫得很好聽「你可以在12世紀的教堂與諾曼式城堡之間,看到七彩的攤位,攤位上會有穿著維多利亞時期傳統服飾的人,販賣各式精美的耶誕飾品、禮物、手工藝品、珠寶、木雕、陶製品……」,充滿期待的我,如果當場給我一張評分表,一定毫不留情給它一顆鴨蛋。

被人潮推擠岀城堡後,城堡外側的攤位則是俗氣的臨時遊樂場,簡介上寫著「你絕不能錯過Big Ben自由落體、摩天輪、旋轉木馬……」,唉,當你看到一個個奸商臉孔的生意人,還有那些七彩霓虹的遊戲台時,保證讓你退避三舍。

market-02.jpg會場週邊,連自動提款機都大排長龍,毎台機器前約排了五十個人等著領錢,因為攤位不接受信用卡啊。又累又冷又想如廁的我們,想找一家店喝杯熱茶,都得慢慢排隊。時間約下午一點鐘,我們只好先躲進大教堂,小朋友唱詩班的演唱即將開始,從未見過大教堂裡擠滿人潮,完全感受不到教堂裡莊嚴的氣氛,我們跟著人潮走進教堂時,一位工作人員硬要我們捐獻£2,還說了一句不客氣的話「We don’t need your smile, we need your money.」,好可怕的神職人員!(奇怪,排在我們前面的一整列英國人也都只給她一個微笑,她為什麼獨對我們這麼不客氣)這時候,我只好連微笑也收回。

大教堂的擴音系統很不好,前方小朋友唱什麼,坐在後排的我們實在聽不清楚,遊客進進岀岀也讓人分心,我們也就再次跟著出了教堂,這回找了一家Tea Room排隊,不想再回到人群中,在一家地窖式的茶館裡喝了一杯熱茶,暖一暖凍壞了的手腳。

market-06.jpg決定走回山下,逛逛市區的商店,這時候人更多,許多路徑都改為單行道,以控制人潮流量與流向,在擁擠的街道上必須走走停停,完全無法超車。這感覺有點像大年初一上廟裡拜拜的香客,還是過年前迪化街的人潮一樣,完全無法控制自己的步伐。

又多了一次對這種嘉年華活動的認識,記得兩年前在慕尼黑的啤酒節,也聽說多麼精采好玩熱鬧,不就是街上一堆喝的爛醉如泥的醉漢瘋漢,也是一攤攤賣啤酒的攤販,也是旋轉木馬、摩天輪。我大概對這種大拜拜式的活動絕緣吧,還是適合悠閒安靜沒有壓力的地方。

回到車站附近,耳尖的P聽到蒸氣火車的汽笛聲,看到很多人站在天橋上等著觀看蒸氣火車進站,馬上衝了上去,這時候,躲了一天的太陽,終於出來露個臉,金黃的光線打在山頂教堂的立面上,還好這個畫面,稍稍挽回今天旅程的失望。

月台上還是擠滿等火車的人群,像是上演逃難片一樣,只有「恐怖」兩個字。

ps."P的建築心觀點"有其他照片...

由 mrs.turtle 發表於 December 4, 2004 05:00 PM | 引用
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jlgg9.14

jlgg 發表於 September 14, 2017 09:38 PM

代理園丁fish答;
請客倌看相框的文字
基本上都是佳能canon
前面幾乎是G2
後面則是10d

fish 發表於 April 8, 2005 11:02 AM

你拍的相片真不錯,可以請教一下是用哪家牌子的相機嗎?
謝謝!

jade 發表於 April 8, 2005 03:55 AM


覺得自己照片照得"還行"的大師兄
還不快貼幾張來給大家瞧瞧

Turtle 發表於 December 12, 2004 07:52 PM

喂喂喂!
這樣不對吧
偷偷講我壞話
照片照的'還行'啦
光線不好是真的
我照的也'還行'

Taipei Kid 發表於 December 8, 2004 09:11 PM

嘿嘿
因為上升星座不是魔羯座咩
不像某人
加起來一共好幾隻魔羯 就很難救了

Turtle 發表於 December 7, 2004 04:32 PM

嗯~~忘了說,我很喜歡你標題那張的構圖,很棒!
你真的確定你是魔羯座的嗎?

kaya 發表於 December 7, 2004 09:33 AM

盼了又盼終於盼到Turtle的聖誕市集快報
呵呵....妳描述的太生動了,出現錯覺以為我也在妳邊邊一起人擠人 ^ ^

minnie 發表於 December 7, 2004 04:57 AM

哎~~對於這市集,還真的是粉失望說~~
可能一開始沒好好想Market這個字,
而它也就真的只是個很大的"Market",
再加上太陽公公一直到下午四點多才肯露臉,
真的是連照相的興致都少不不少…

還好教堂裏還有挺多東西看的,參觀花了我們不少時間,
否則,還真的不知再那待這麼久要幹嘛呢~~

kaya 發表於 December 7, 2004 01:41 AM

外國人其實也很喜歡瞎逛
所以搞岀各種名堂的market
farmer market, craft market, Christmas market...
還有一些假日市集 跳蚤市場
還是台灣人比較聰明 有固定的"夜市"
讓愛逛的人每星期都有得逛

Turtle 發表於 December 6, 2004 10:43 PM

那我想月台那一幕我永生難忘吧,
活像電影中民國初年大家要逃難擠火車的經典畫面..
就只差沒配上「媽!媽!妳在哪?~~」的台詞...
除了傻眼,我實在很難形容我心理的感受...

七分 發表於 December 6, 2004 10:27 PM

喔 果然有像迪化街
實在可怕

我們班德國同學上星期回去慕尼黑
參加christmas market說很好玩呢
我想應該也是這樣吧
就是有人覺得好玩喔 奇怪

fish 發表於 December 6, 2004 07:48 PM
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