March 20, 2005

中世紀要塞...Castleton

castleton13.jpg

    
(點小圖可放大觀賞)

Peak的第一頁

二年半前,Castleton是我們邁開山峰國家公園(Peak District)健行第一步的起點,那一趟與小韓妹同行,不能稱得上是真正的健行,只在小鎮方圓一英里內的範圍散步閒逛,時值暑假,Castleton各個著名的洞穴之旅都大排長龍,我們只得在洞口張望便離開;不過,那一次爬上了Peveril Castle,可以從至高點俯瞰Castleton的小鎮風情,Hope Valley的視野也盡在脚下,Peak的印象也就這樣深刻地烙印在腦海裡,至今仍眷戀不已……………

      

這次,我們決定依著walking guide裡的路線,來一趟4英里的步行。一行人,4台Canon對上2台Nikon,一路上都是攝影的話題,數位攝影的時代,一瞬間,大家都瘋狂喜歡上攝影,不管拍好拍壞、拍圓拍扁,透過觀景窗或液晶螢幕,開始更仔細的觀察周圍環境,也未嘗是件美好的事。

    

小鎮風情

距離Sheffield僅16英里的Castleton,是個要塞型的中世紀小鎮,位於Hope Valley的最西境,因為這一帶多元的地理環境,創造出獨特的地景,有股動感的野性美,不同於Peak其他小鎮的恬靜風光。這兒也是英國著名的Blue John天然寶石產地,因此鎮上的紀念品店都高掛著Blue John的招牌。

從公車站走來,穿過鎮上的Market Place,從廣場出發可以登上地標Peveril Castle,也可以前往Cave Dale的健行步道。廣場中央有一醒目的戰爭紀念十字架,十字架基座周圍有鮮紅罌粟花圈,這是英國人對於戰爭追思的表現,一旁則有小鎮居民在一次世界大戰中戰死的名錄,英國的大城小鎮都可以瞧見這樣的風景,既然知道戰爭的殘酷,又何必這麼好戰呢?

光是這個小小的廣場,又讓我們耗掉不少記憶卡容量,還是趕緊啟程吧。

    

Cave Dale

從廣場邊穿越民宅間的狹窄巷弄,進入了Cave Dale,石灰岩地形的寬闊山谷,舖上一層厚厚的綠色地毯,兩側是相對看起來高聳的山丘,右邊陡峭的岩壁上即是Peveril Castle,路徑隨著山谷的自然地勢前進,兩側不斷出現或深或淺的凹洞。這一段不算平緩的粗石步道,走起來並不像Peak裡其他步道一樣輕鬆,但我卻獨鍾這樣的崎嶇路線,越是崎嶇越是有趣,最好能拉著繩索上上下下,或是得雙手帶著手套攀爬而上,可惜英格蘭大概找不到這樣的地方,真是懷念台灣的中級山。山谷的部分路段,型成淺淺的清澈水流,走得同行的七年級小妹妹哇哇大叫,我則興奮的直往水裡踩。

地形地貌頗有變化的Cave Dale,相傳是地底下的洞穴崩塌,所行成的山谷,而現代的地理學家則偏向相信是冰河時期所切鑿的痕跡。綠草如蔭的山谷,在週末的好天氣裡,當然不少人來此健行,有年輕團體、有老人、有情侶、有一家人、有單獨的行者、有狗、有單車,好不熱鬧啊!各個杵著雪杖、前背地圖袋、後背登山包、脚蹬高統靴外加綁腿,快步的往前走。他們一天的裝備大概是我們在台灣要去高山縱走一星期的裝備,難怪這裡的戶外用品店這麼發達。

castleton27.jpg
兩年前,從城堡上俯瞰小鎮的風景

    

Peveril Castle

位在陡峭山壁之上的Peveril Castle廢墟,兩旁延伸出依稀可見的圍牆,這個山頂上的城堡,戰略地位極優,建於諾曼人征服英國的年代,大約是12世紀末,是為了守護君王的狩獵地「The Royal Forest of Peak」,也是為了保護附近的鉛礦場。現在這個城堡廢墟已經歸English Heritage所管轄,兩年多前那次,只見到被鷹架層層包圍的城堡,這回終於瞧見它的真實樣貌。

我們在這1英里不到的路程上耗掉了泰半的體力與時間,只好先找個地方歇歇腿,走上比城堡還要高的山坡上,與一旁的羊糞為伍,啃著我們的午餐三明治補充體力。早上的濃霧漸漸散去,Hope Valley的輪廓慢慢浮現,遠方的Wind Hill也隱約可見,好一幅舒暢清新的風景。

    

    

    

Rowter Lane

啃完三明治,繼續沿著Limestone Way前進,一望無際的寬闊草原,除了草坡就是石牆,在遇到Rowter Lane之後右轉,仍是大片大片的農場牧場。接近B6061道路時,經過了一座大型的露天採礦場。

castleton34.jpg

從遠遠的距離,即發現路旁的草原上,有幾頭不尋常的牛隻,這種肚皮有一圈白色的腰帶牛(Belted Galloway),模樣煞是可愛,這是蘇格蘭Galloway品種與荷蘭籍腰帶牛(Belted Cattle)的混血兒,1921年正式註冊為Belted Galloway,混血兒總是長得比較俊美吧。書上寫,這種牛多半拿來當作牧場裡的裝飾動物,真有這種功能的牛隻啊!其中有一隻可能是染色體染錯了,白色腰帶硬是缺了一角。


    

    

Winnats Pass

從Rowter Lane右轉B6061之後,一直沿著公路走,其實這段路不該走在公路上,但是經過幾個小時的高溫,大家都快投降了,只好擷取最短的路徑「公路」。途中穿越了著名的Winnats Pass,winnats是風口的意思,兩側的山勢突然變得陡峭,坡度達到1:5,古老的傳說,當然也是地底下的洞穴崩塌所造成的山谷,但現代的地理學家相信,此處在3億5千萬年前是深海裡的海溝,因為發現了石炭紀的珊瑚礁。不是地質系或地理系的我們,不想也沒能力深究,就是「美」一個字。

沿途因為拍照耽擱太久,溫度又超過20度(真是瘋狂的氣候,上星期還低於5℃,這星期居然高於20℃,英國人全都短袖上場),耗掉大夥兒的體力,毎個人都覺得書上的里程計算錯誤,這條路線不該只有4英里,其實看看地圖上的比例尺,它還真的只有4英里,而且我們還走了捷徑。

    

4點回到人潮如織的小鎮上,人來人往、車來車往、下午茶館裡幾乎間間客滿、冰淇淋店更是生意興隆。國家公園遊客中心已經不是兩年多前在一間臨時屋舍的簡陋模樣,新蓋的建築物仍與周圍的舊房子沒有太大差別,融合的很好。

我們依著二本Peak書上的推薦,來到公車站斜對面的Ye Olde Chesshire Cheese Pub,想要嚐嚐他們的Yorkshire Pudding;結果,乾硬的烤牛肉、單調的蔬菜、焦黑的布丁餅皮、不濃也不香的肉汁,只能說,還是Strines Inn的讚。

castletonmap.jpg
路線圖(更新版)

由 mrs.turtle 發表於 March 20, 2005 11:11 PM | 引用
迴響

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liuchunkai 發表於 September 25, 2018 01:26 PM

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20180523lck

liuchunkai 發表於 May 23, 2018 11:47 AM

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zkxhjvpzrd 發表於 September 5, 2011 06:08 PM

8ug3mN izuueadefohn

trzgdbmrz 發表於 September 5, 2011 05:27 PM

jLDBW6 frbbgvqfepqd

ggoann 發表於 September 5, 2011 04:17 PM

呵呵,我是準備從倫敦市區的行程開始,畢竟這個城市裡面有很多秘密的地方我也沒有完全走過。我想我這個禮拜應該會先去走一趟試試看....Norman Foster的建築之旅...原來倫敦有許多常常見到的建築物都是這個人的作品喔....

YC 發表於 March 23, 2005 08:47 PM

kaya
都是書上看來的啦
只是很想搞清楚自己去過的地方
不然以我這種286的記憶體
肯定還沒回台灣就忘光光了

YC
啊啊
一次就走出興趣來喔
如果是我
就在倫敦城裡一週來一趟"city walking"就好
可以看得東西更多呢
建築 綠地 名景...貪心貪心

阿強
你也玩重車嗎
看你總是特別注意這個...
在英國
騎重車的都是中老年人
因為比較有錢
才負擔得起比車子還貴的機車 還有比汽車保險貴的機車保險

turtle 發表於 March 23, 2005 11:00 AM

哈~
終於看到重車了
不過我比較喜歡後面那台黑的^^

pochaing 發表於 March 23, 2005 07:44 AM

呵呵,多走了喔,也沒關係啦,就當作運動嚕。
這樣也不錯啊,害我今天從圖書館離開以後,跑去書店找看看有沒有倫敦附近可以健行的書....。

YC 發表於 March 22, 2005 08:58 PM

泰德兄

還是您眼尖啊
原來我們多走了還不自知啊
經過我再次確認地圖
書上的路線圖是我畫的圖
但是我們走的路線是你畫的圖
走錯啦~~歹勢歹勢
讓大家多走了好幾哩 冤枉啊
多謝你點醒
剛剛被P削了一頓
馬上更新地圖

Turtle 發表於 March 22, 2005 05:44 PM

德朵阿姨,小弟認為地圖劃錯路線了,我們走的是另外一條更南的路線。

請參考
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v348/yinlin_chen/diary/2005_03_21/1.jpg

總長應該在6-7miles之間。

確認方式:
A點是我們看到腰帶牛的地方,路是先往南邊偏出去後,急轉回東北。
B點的岔路,是斜坡的開始,前幾步的Oxlow Ho則是有一個小攀梯,讓我們可以看到小路,從這裡回望山丘,只看得到D的丘點,而無法看過去。
在A跟B中間,則是那個寫有castleton 3miles指標的公路,從此回算Castleton 3miles,很合理、也很正確。
至於C點Eldon Hill所畫的地形,我想是我們看到那個被開採空的峽谷。

不過最花時間的,應該還是前一段吧!那總共有200公尺的高差,應該也是我們花很多時間的原因之一。

TED 發表於 March 22, 2005 02:58 PM

哇~~我真的是要佩服,這麼多的資料,德朵都是去那裏找來的啊?怎麼每次都可以讓我們知道這麼多小故事,真棒!果然是很適合出書寫遊記哦!

嗯~~總算是澄清了,果然是4mile,那可能真的是我們一開始太專注於拍照了吧!?

kaya 發表於 March 22, 2005 10:46 AM
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