April 06, 2005

藍鯨出沒的城市Graz-Austria 【2-3】

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Annenstrasse, Graz

熱情的南方人
搭上奧地利國鐵ÖBB的鮮紅色IC列車,車廂也是採包廂式,六個人一間,不知道人家的國鐵是怎麼個經營法,是賺錢還是虧損,看起來就是高成本的車廂、搭乘人數也不是想像中的多、班次又頻繁、車上的服務人員也不少,如何能維持這樣的營運,還是這就是政府的社會福利成本之一...........................

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維也納往Graz的途中,火車正行經一座拱橋,繞過一個U型河谷

跟我們同車廂的有兩位當地人,一位是衣著非常紳士的老先生,另一位是中年男子,老先生約莫一個小時即下車,要離開時還拿起他的紳士帽跟我們道再見,展現了禮貌與教養。而這另一位中年人更有意思,他看我們沿途不斷東張西望,對著窗外景緻念念有詞,終於也忍不住開口,開始以有限的英文,比手畫腳的介紹鐵道沿途的鄉村景觀,這座橋有幾年歷史、這座高山叫什麼、這是離維也納最近的滑雪小鎮、這是滑雪道、火車等一下會沿著這個河谷作U字型的大迴轉……,不僅用說的,地點還沒到時,他還拉著我們到包廂外的走道上等著。

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左:OBB的紅色列車
右:火車經過一個滑雪小鎮,右上角的白色積雪處即是滑雪道

這一路仍然有不少積雪,山上的房子全都是空間方整、色彩鮮豔,到了滑雪小鎮時,果然有幾位年輕人扛著大型的滑雪道具下了車,不遠處即是幾條滑雪坡道,看著三三兩兩的遊客從滑雪道的至高處向下俯衝,真是羨慕,不知道哪一天我能嘗試一下這玩意兒。
熱情的中年人在我們轉車的前一站Mürzzuschlag下車了,離開時還用他粗糙有力的手跟我們握手說再見。昨天厚子跟我們說,奧地利人視南方這個Styria省的人為「說德文的義大利人」,是這樣所以比起冷漠的維也納人熱情嗎?

我們也在下一站Bruck a.d. Mur轉車,原班列車繼續往西行駛,我們則由地下道走過另一個月台,繼續接上往Graz的區間火車,好心的列車長,剛剛在維也納上車前,我們跟他確認了這是往Graz的車嗎?這會兒,他還特地來包廂提醒我們,該下車了。

半個小時後,我們已經來到Styria省的首府Graz。

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左:火車站大廳
右:售票櫃檯前,排在我們前方的一對體型大小極不成比例的主人與寵物

Graz火車站
Graz新穎明亮的車站,幾乎是個小型商圈,開放式的售票窗口,服務人員也和善許多,簡易的「i」就在一旁,只是簡單的問個問題,又塞給我們一張地圖,還蠻喜歡這個城市的邏輯,清清楚楚、尺寸剛好的地圖,的確是遊客最需要的資訊,而且在英國時就先收到非常實用的旅遊資訊,也幫遊客規劃了三條完善的路徑,讓你不至於迷失在曲折蜿蜒的巷弄中,或是錯失了重要的景點,只要照著走,舊城裡的大小景點都可以來上一回。
先買好了明天的車票,拿了一份時刻表,不同樣是ÖBB經營,怎麼連時刻表都差這麼多,清晰明瞭而且隨手可得,不像維也納還要跟櫃檯要才有一張影印本。

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Graz青年旅館
青年旅館離車站步行約10分鐘,沿著站前的大馬路走來,環境不是很優雅,很乾、很硬,人看起來也怪怪的,的確許多看起來像義大利、土耳其的移民,他們總是喜歡三五成群,打量著過往的行人,我的偏見讓我有種不安全感。

青年旅館前有片大綠地與停車場,中午時分很多人在戶外用餐,新整修的建築物外牆,漆上鮮豔的色彩、活潑的卡通圖案,看起來朝氣十足。很昂貴的青年旅館,兩人套房比維也納還要貴,但是新整修的房間寬敞,又有面對綠地的大面開窗、床、桌、椅、衣櫃、吊架等家具一應俱全,而且全都是新品,就連衛浴設備也非常周全,不會缺那個少這個,用起來舒適極了,比起昨晚的Q好上百倍。

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丟下行李趕緊出門,開始半天的城市徒步之行,沿途散步來到舊城中心約20分鐘,以我們經常在Peak裡集訓的腳程,這實在是小卡司啊!

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10D和G2的尺寸還差真多

沿路上幾棟不知名的小教堂,已經讓我們和手中的相機蠢蠢欲動,火車站通往舊城中心的主要大道Annenstrasse,是條熱鬧的商業大街,非常local,在地人正忙著日常生活用品的採購。馬路上除了轎車和腳踏車,最顯眼的還是頻繁的電車,這裡的電車造型與維也納相同,但是車身漆上了綠色,當然也混雜著幾輛色彩不同的廣告車廂。

在到了Mur河前的幾步路,被左手邊老巷子裡露出來一坨渾圓的建築量體給嚇得目瞪口呆,這就是老城市裡的新地標Kunsthaus的尾巴吧!

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左:這國家的人還真是偏好手工藝,到處都可見到賣縫紉機的店
右:"Old English Pub-Prince Charles",在奧地利南部居然有以英國pub為名的酒館

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這裡的郵差比起英國的真是幸福多了,有腳踏車可以騎,還可以分擔郵件的負荷,英國郵差大概個個都有脊椎側彎的職業病

ps.點小圖可放大觀賞...

由 mrs.turtle 發表於 April 6, 2005 03:10 PM | 引用
迴響

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xiaozheng6666 發表於 January 11, 2018 07:35 PM

taipei kid,
我還再想怎麼沒人說這照片比例怪怪的
是啊
這是兩張照片接起來的
因為沒有17-40mm咩
街道又窄 教堂又高
只好這樣接

turtle 發表於 April 25, 2005 07:52 PM

不知是不是我的電腦出問題還是怎樣
為何
第一張照片上面有一個第剛感覺怪怪的
好像看起來像兩張照片年在一起?
是我的電腦有問題嗎???

taipeikid 發表於 April 25, 2005 07:34 PM

昨天居然聽人說
去義大利和西班牙若是沒被搶 才覺得奇怪
有虛度此行的錯覺

真是什麼人都有啊


fish 發表於 April 24, 2005 06:56 AM

micky,
歡迎啊
也希望你的歐洲行可以早點實現~~

kaya,
没錯
在義大利凡是遇到"好心人"
千萬要離他遠一點

turtle 發表於 April 23, 2005 09:40 PM

那郵差車還真是可愛啊!還體貼的在兩側加了輔助的輪子呢~~
這種的話,我應該就可以騎丁吧~~嘻嘻

那張U型谷的風景真的很風哦!真是好運氣,可以遇到這麼熱情的當地人……不過,如果一樣的熱情出現在義大利,說不定…會弄的我們神經緊張啊~~~哎~~~

kaya 發表於 April 23, 2005 07:30 AM

今天无意中通过google找到了这个blog,发现真的很喜欢,一直非常希望去欧洲旅游,尤其喜欢英国伦敦,可是一直没有机会。不过在这里看到这么多图片,真的是大饱眼福。希望turtle不要介意我的打扰

micky 發表於 April 23, 2005 02:28 AM
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