May 04, 2005

London 1-day trip

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一個多月前,一不小心,又在National Express網站上買了往倫敦的funfare,一人£2來回,夠便宜吧。比在Sheffield搭公車、搭電車都便宜,一直有個瘋狂的想法,毎個星期或每兩個星期就來買張便宜的倫敦巴士票,每次去逛一間博物館,或者選定一小街區逛逛,或者漫無目的的到處在街頭拍拍照也行,只是來回多耗費交通時間,就有不少收穫,應該還蠻划得來的。雖然時間就是金錢,但是我現在時間比金錢充裕.........................

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風格獨具的倫敦

倫敦之大,雖然已經去了不下30回,總還是很多地方沒走過、很多博物館沒參觀過,這個離我們最近的歐洲大城、世界名城,有迥異於歐陸風格的都市紋理,逛起來別有風味。如果把它當成每個星期去Peak健行,花個一天時間,偶爾換到倫敦來趟都市漫步也不賴。

04050512.jpg倫敦真的很大、倫敦真的很精采、倫敦真的很精華,我常看著客廳牆上的倫敦地圖,問自己,如果我只是像去歐陸旅行幾天的行程,我會選擇哪些景點去呢?真的很難抉擇吧!

走過歐陸幾個大城市(當然小城鎮不能拿來相提並論,因為我還是偏愛小城鎮),回頭看看倫敦,仍然讓我喜愛不已,除了「美食」這一項。不管是新舊建築、不管是博物館、不管是街景、不管是公園綠地(尤其這一點,大概沒有都市可以與她相比)、還是熱鬧的逛街區,倫敦都有她自外於歐陸的一種獨特之美。而且,倫敦的真實樣貌,不會離觀光客太遠,繁忙的倫敦市中心,不只有世界各地來的觀光客,更多的是當地的住民,你到咖啡館喝咖啡、你到三明治吧啃三明治、你到超市買東西、你擠進地鐵、你跳上巴士,身旁不僅是觀光客,有一大半是倫敦市民,而且,大致上來說,倫敦市民要比起其他城市的居民友善許多、禮貌許多,而且這個城市「安全」許多,當然她不能跟我們這裡親切到不行的Sheffield人相比。

走在倫敦街頭,你會覺得貼近真實的生活,連唐寧街十號都近在咫尺,運氣好還可以看到布萊爾的座車從你身旁經過。這裡不是一個專為觀光客打造的虛幻完美世界,泰晤士河畔的泰德現代館旁,就是一般的住宅公寓,The Temple那一帶的住宅區,圍繞著廣大的私有庭園,觀光客只能從鐵欄杆外乾瞪眼,林肯法學院裡的律師事務所,門牌上密密麻麻的名字,表示裡頭有不少律師正忙著各類委託案。當然,也因為真實,你得忍耐永遠塞車的街道,永遠塞人的地鐵,還有那毎年不斷調漲的交通費用,倫敦的公車日票當然就比我們來回的長途巴士票還要貴上許多。

04050511.jpg園藝史博物館

今天運氣不是太好,到了倫敦遇上陰雨天,早上的天氣預報才說會有14℃,中午一到倫敦,又是風、又是雨,站在泰晤士河邊被河上的強風吹得受不了,趕緊躲進園藝史博物館(Museum of Garden History),位在Lambeth Bridge旁的博物館,是由舊教堂空間改建,外頭的庭園當然還有不少教堂遺留下來的墓碑,博物館裡空間不大,設有Café和Shop,這是倫敦博物館裡不會缺少的兩樣,遊客走累了喝杯咖啡,參觀完了順便買點紀念品,符合需求又有進帳。這博物館裡靜態的展覽一些古代的園藝工具,以及英國園藝的發展歷史,這國家的園藝,不管皇室庭園、公家庭園、私有花園、私家前後院,她們的巧意的確令人讚賞,但相較於真實庭園的巧思,這博物館裡的展覽實在有點「乾」。

右圖:園藝圖案的包裝紙,就掛在墓碑前展售。

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泰德現代分館

還是趕緊前往今天預定拜訪的Tate Modern,在河邊搭上往滑鐵盧車站的公車,今天的天氣只適合室內行程,冷啊!在倫敦市區裡搭公車要比搭地鐵有趣許多,就把公車當成是Sightseeing Bus,看到喜歡的地方就跳下車,往往能發現不少好玩的地方。

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在泰晤士河畔的泰德現代分館,以前來來回回經過不少次,就是沒有機會進來逛逛,結果,一進來之後,在地下一樓的書店裡,又讓我們流連忘返許久,這裡販賣的藝術類、建築類、攝影類書籍,讓人目不暇給,我們光是在建築這一類停格的時間,就讓我們幾乎趕不上與YC同學的約,只好又對自己說「下一次再來吧!」

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The Temple

過了Blackfriars Bridge之後左轉,第一次走到The Temple這一帶,悠靜廣大的私有庭園,隔著一道鐵欄杆似乎就把外頭吵鬧的車聲給擋住了,轉進Middle Temple Lane,靜謐的巷弄風情讓人眼睛為之一亮,在紛鬧的倫敦街頭,這可是難得一見,穿過建築物下方的拱廊,這附近是法學院,不是我想像中的大學法學院,而是一間間的律師事務所所在地,因為這裡離皇家法庭僅有一街之隔,可惜沒有見到穿著傳統律師袍、帶著律師假髮的人在街上走來走去。相連的連棟建築物,門牌上密密麻麻的律師大名,窗戶裡可見到一堆又一堆的文件檔案,工作人員忙著在電腦前工作、忙著打電話,想必裡頭忙亂的氣氛與外頭靜謐的街道完全不同,這一帶走起來真是舒服極了,沒見到觀光客,只有偶爾步伐急促的事務所人員,尤其女士的高跟鞋踩在安靜的街道上,喀-喀-喀-的格外響亮。

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皇家法庭

一走出Middle Temple Lane,馬上又身陷吵雜繁忙的倫敦街頭,一門之隔,差別這麼多,頭頂上出現一頭「怪獸」紀念碑,這是倫敦西提區與西敏區的邊界,對街這棟皇家正義法庭(Royal Courts of Justice),常常可以在英國的電視新聞畫面裡看到,是英國主要的民事法庭,門口果然有一堆記者駕著攝影機守候著。

法庭的正對面就是英國著名的茶莊「Twinings」原始店,1706年就開始在這兒賣茶,門口一對唐裝打扮的人坐在門楣上,表示這茶來自中國,還鑲嵌著皇室御用的標記,縱深狹長的店裡,裡面有展售不同於超市包裝的茶葉,但我可不想跟有著晚娘面孔的服務人員打交道。

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林肯法學院

前往林肯法學院(Lincoln’s Inn)的路上,看到位在LSE(The London School of Economics and Political Science,倫敦政經學院)校園街區附近的一間古物商店,據稱是倫敦中區最古老的商店,而且曾出現在狄更斯的小說當中,被兩旁較高樓層包圍的傾斜小店,裡頭不知道賣著什麼希奇古怪的玩意兒,古物店正對著一條巷子更有趣,這條街道名叫「Sheffield Street」,街道名稱,以極大的比例鑲嵌在建築物上,不知道這街道名怎麼來的。

林肯法學院裡口字型的連棟建築圍繞著綠地,與方才的The Temple一樣,建築物門口貼著密密麻麻的律師大名,這一帶極少有觀光客會走進來,也沒有熱鬧的商店,格外的清悠。

04050510.jpg攝影器材專區

沿著Kingsway往大英博物館的方向走,YC同學準備帶P到二手相機店逛逛,博物館這一帶的相機店還真是齊全,沿路走來,一家一家逛到P興奮不已,尤其Bloomsbury Place這一帶有家Canon專賣店,研究Canon相機多年的P,在這裡看到了許多只曾在相機年鑑驚鴻一瞥的珍貴鏡頭。這家店後方的小庭園裡還有Jessops Classic,有收集齊全的各廠牌古董機身與鏡頭,這不是展示用,還真有客人在詢問,另一間Leica Classic當然也是專業,全系列的Leica手動相機、傻瓜相機、數位相機、望遠鏡、Leica專書等,逛到P都捨不得走出店門,若不是我在一旁催促,差一點就趕不上回Sheffield的巴士了。

從店裡走出來時,他說「下次你去逛博物館,我來逛相機店。」在New Oxford Street要上公車的最後一刻,他都還要再進去Jacobs的店裡再逛一回,雖然是英國的相機連鎖店,不過在倫敦的店家規模實在比起Sheffield有看頭許多。

這回真的差一點點趕不上巴士,我們從Victoria Station下車後,以跑百米的速度,在發車前兩分鐘,跳上National Express,這個下午,真的是好趕好趕!

由 mrs.turtle 發表於 May 4, 2005 03:55 PM | 引用
迴響

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xiaojun 發表於 March 23, 2018 08:12 PM

YC
唉呀
倫敦這令人迷失的大都會
的確不太適合我這個沒有定力的人居住
走進去後 可能會忘了自己是誰了
還是繼續在Sheffield過我們的"山居歲月"吧

我也想多待幾晚啊
誰要你們的旅館這麼貴
連青年旅館我都負擔不起
我~~~又不敢跟貓睡~~~會不會被打~~~

minnie,
毎個人都有自己旅行的步調
高興就好嚕
我們這種太不浪漫
不值得學習~~

turtle 發表於 May 8, 2005 10:20 PM

以前每次南下去倫敦總是心奮不已
忙.趕.急.但總是去相同去處
沒妳看得那麼細那麼多 > 下回(不知何時)要督促自己看看鐵橋和大笨鐘外的美景 ^^

minnie 發表於 May 7, 2005 11:44 PM

還好你們有趕上車,要不然我就覺得罪過了,不應該帶你們兩個遠離俗世的人去看敗家的地方,呵呵。說真的啦,下次記得多待個幾天啦,這麼趕的行程,其實你會失去體驗倫敦夜生活的機會喔..呵呵

YC 發表於 May 7, 2005 04:47 PM
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