July 10, 2005

【荷比小旅行 1】-倫敦無恙!

10070506.jpg
Tate Britain

依舊熱鬧

倫敦遭受恐怖攻擊後的第三天,我們已經出現在倫敦街頭閒蕩。前兩天還一直想著到底該不該取消這趟荷蘭比利時的旅行,來到倫敦發現,我們顯然是多慮了!星期天的倫敦原本就少了通勤的上班上課人潮,但是世界各地來的觀光客仍舊絡繹不絕,地鐵爆炸事件似乎一點都沒影響到倫敦這個大城市,大家照吃照玩照喝照逛,地鐵巴士照搭,大部分商店門前都掛著一張斗大的「Open as usual」海報,請大家繼續光顧,實在一點點也嗅不出才剛剛發生了震驚世界的攻擊事件。

10070508.jpg  10070505.jpg

所有活動依舊繼續,昨天女王在白廳(Whitehall)路上還是按照既定計畫,為那塊紀念二次世界大戰中偉大女性的紀念碑揭幕,今天,則有更盛大的WWⅡ紀念活動,許多穿戴軍服的老兵,還有陪同前來盛裝打扮的老兵夫人,把這一帶擠得熱鬧非凡。

泰德美術館

我們也依照計畫前往Tate Britain參觀,原本想看看這幾個星期在BBC節目中播出的「A Picture of Britain」特展,結果一張門票£7,兩個人加起來都可以買一本為該節目所出版的專書,還是去參觀泰德美術館其他更精彩的展覽吧!

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Tate Britain

泰德美術館主要典藏16到20世紀的英國藝術品,該館是由糖業大亨泰德爵士(Sir Henry Tate )所捐贈。我們在悶熱的主要展覽館裡隨意瀏覽,隨後來到今天的參觀重點「克羅爾藝廊(Clore Gallery)」,這棟附屬在主要建築側面的專館,收藏著JMW Turner(1775-1851)的大批畫作,當初收藏家把290幅油畫與20,000幅水彩全數捐贈給國家時,提出的條件就是不得將作品分散,這個願望在1987獲得了實現,克羅爾爵士的女兒贊助這棟專館的硬體建築,英國政府也同意補助一百萬英鎊,終於在一百多年後,讓Turner的畫作有了一個完整展示的場地,是一項很成功的私人藝術贊助示範。

這個克羅爾藝廊的主要展覽室永久展出Turner一百幅傑出的油畫,另有水彩作品的展覽室、畫作修護保存室、演講廳等。建築物以L型的分布,蓋在泰德美術館與接鄰的軍醫院之間,建築正立面顯得內斂,並與左右相連的建築物相呼應,帶有左邊泰德主館的石牆,也滲入右邊軍醫院的紅磚樣式,立面前的大門與二樓開窗用了搶眼的綠色線條,建築物前面還包含著一個非常簡單的雕塑花園,整體感覺很順眼。

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Tate Britain前的雕塑花園

說實在,我並不特別欣賞英國的畫作,因為她們總是顯得陰鬱、寫實,從這幾個星期的A Picture of Britain節目中,認識了更多的英國畫家,這些畫作雖為風景畫,但看了似乎讓人心情也跟著跌入憂鬱的深淵,或許英國的天氣使然,畫家筆下的英國顯得更加憂鬱灰暗。不過這位Turner的畫,讓我有完全不同的感受,原來他可是印象派大師莫內的啟蒙,莫內曾於1870年到倫敦旅行,深受三十年前這位光之描繪畫家泰納(J.M.W. Turner)的影響,難怪作品風格有點神似,剛開始,我搞不清楚年代關係時,還以為他是受莫內的畫風影響呢,原來剛好相反,恕我藝術涵養實在不行。

泰德美術館這一帶,稍稍遠離觀光客集中的區域,周圍環境格外清幽,室內展覽空間與展覽品質也都頗具水準,只是盛夏的熱氣也隨著透明天窗進了室內,有些展館悶熱又不通風,這樣不會影響畫作嗎?這些藝術品不是得保持在一定的溫溼度空間裡嗎?

另外,館內不能攝影,對我們來說是一大遺憾啊。

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Piccadilly Circus

心靜自然涼?

一直逛到傍晚六點閉館前才出來,很滿足的幾個小時藝術饗宴。隨後沿著泰晤士河畔,散步到國會大廈這一帶,今天的倫敦天空藍得耀眼,因為趕著去中國城與YC會合,搭上了跟火爐一樣熱的公車,沿途的Whitehall、特拉法加廣場、萊斯特廣場,還是遊人如織,把這些地方擠得水洩不通,要去晚餐的日式餐館也還是一樣大排長龍,得在門口排上很久很久的隊。

10070503.jpg
Trafalgar Square

飯後,在Piccadilly Circus搭上公車回到Earl's Court青年旅館,大都市的氣溫並沒有因為入夜而轉涼,我們只好穿著短褲與拖鞋,坐在旅館前的階梯乘涼,很難想像吧,這裡居然像在台灣一樣,夜間需要到外頭「納涼」,夜裡的倫敦變得安靜許多,可能需要「心靜」,才會「自然涼」吧!

期待明天一早的Eurostar,火車迷P先生又開始碎碎念了!

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Houses of Parliament

由 mrs.turtle 發表於 July 10, 2005 10:27 PM | 引用
迴響

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chenlina20161017

chenlina 發表於 October 17, 2016 09:06 AM

YC同學,
住在一區時不騎車
搬到四區才要騎車
粉累捏...
不過當做健身吧

搭地鐵那天
說不定旁邊的人比較怕我們
因為我們拖著行李箱...

對.有空去品嘗一下Enrico推薦的大碗炸醬麵吧

Enrico,
你也是"巷子內"的喔!!
我還沒嚐過你說的大碗炸醬麵
下次一定去找找看

turtle 發表於 July 18, 2005 02:26 PM

中國城大排長龍的日本餐廳?
該不會是那家有超大碗日式拉麵和超大盤豬排飯那家吧(跟「旺記」同一排往 Leicester Sq 走的那間)....
我常去吃的還有在Gerrard St.(就是跟中國城那條主要街道平行的後面小巷子)上,有一家賣大碗麵的....
他的四川炸醬麵蠻好吃的~~:p

Enrico 發表於 July 18, 2005 11:44 AM

怕不怕?....
當然還是會有點怪怪的心裡反應啦....
搭上公車或者地鐵,都會特別注意一下車上的乘客反應,
只不過還是得繼續乘著大眾交通工具過生活....
公車上一樣人滿為患....

搬家後,我想我會買一台自行車吧....
夏天騎著車應該還算舒服....只是有點遠,哈哈

YC 發表於 July 18, 2005 10:16 AM

尤其特拉法加廣場前
真是熱鬧到不行...

我們搭的公車也是擁擠不堪
怪...大家都不怕哩
不過維多利亞火車站前
排隊等計程車的人真的比平常多很多

只是我們沒有去King's Cross車站那一帶
說不定就可以感受到一點

turtle 發表於 July 17, 2005 12:12 PM

是啊!我那天看新聞,倫敦還是擠了滿滿的人,一點也不像剛經歷過大劫的樣子。不過…看到在那些在找尋失踨親友的表情,還是有點感傷就是了…

kaya 發表於 July 17, 2005 07:10 AM
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