March 10, 2006

轉載:威尼斯文章三篇

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越來越痛恨聯副跟中時副刊的內文,這世間有多少美好的藝文創作可以寫,可以登,偏偏連副刊都得強迫讀者跟政治牽扯在一塊兒,許多人藉著藝文之名,還是搞政治之實,誰有興趣啊!除了這個之外,近幾年這兩大報的副刊已漸漸淪為對岸的傳聲機器,不是他們的人寫的文章,就是我們的人寫他們,在別人的舞台裡已經夠弱勢的我們,在自己的舞台裡,仍就是沒有太多空間,為什麼。
好不容易又盼到喜歡看的文章,趕緊貼來分享一下。

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如此漫過潟滷之城【米千因】 【2006/03/10 聯合報】

喔!威尼斯呀 威尼斯/當水漫上了大理石牆淪陷的廳堂全民一聲哀嚎/激盪大海中的殤慟──拜倫

威尼斯是我來去數回不曾為之厭倦的城市。千百年來,她的美於累世詩人、文學家、畫家的筆下,淺、深、衍、疊,通透淋漓似乎被描繪了夠,而其神祕浪漫竟絲毫不減一分。任何角度,清晨或向晚,她妍妍碩碩,在在一副疊門深戶風範,富貴穩重,一絲不茍。遊人穿弄過橋、摩肩接踵地肆意窺訪,乘帆蕩遊潟湖島嶼間,周周匝匝迴旋不已而不能盡觀其美。所以,去過的人歸了又回,未去的想,此生終究得去遊一趟才是。

如此這般,四時不絕,一一現身威尼斯,漫蕩飄遊無厭無終。

西元五六八年,倫巴底人入侵北義大利,將大陸人逐到亞德里亞海上一處潟滷之地暫居。當時該地僅寬1.6公里,長3.2公里。隨後的幾世紀,居民時來運轉地藉著海上經濟的發達,一度成為地中海的經濟中心,其中雖經歷了幾次戰亂和天災,然,累世財富與權勢兩相結合下,當初失勢者的蒼莽潟滷脫胎換骨為王公貴族住居的富貴版塊。潟湖島嶼如今擴寬為八至十三公里,加長至五十一公里,而光是大運河兩旁便有兩百棟以上的宮殿。當人乘船沿著大運河漫蕩而入或出,拜占廷、哥德式、阿拉伯、巴洛克等風格的建築可謂難以一眼望穿,因此,只能讚嘆,看富麗堂皇的歷史遺產如真似幻、恍惚憑空由水中升起一如海市蜃樓。

那麼,想到近世紀人類所居住的星球如何遭受人類本身的酷刑,這海市蜃樓之思竟也似幻實真。

一九六六年十一月四日,大潮湧入潟滷古城不能止,將聖馬可廣場淹入1.2公尺水深處,而大運河邊的薩盧特教堂(Punte della Salute)連兩公尺高之大漢也不得其門而入。這次大水所毀掉的藝術品無法估算以外,且造成五千人無家可歸。一九九六那一年,威尼斯淹水次數更達到一百次以上,店家商機全毀,而居家無一日安寧。

大水如此造禍,究其原因,說是天災實在牽強,人禍則是有擔待的說詞。因為空氣污染所造成的氣候暖化問題為下沉中的城市再添一憂,下蒸上炙,不死也要送掉半條命。

於是,聯合國教科文組織決議撥出三十億歐元,規畫了一個稱為「Save Venice」的專案。這筆錢將用在威尼斯的三道入水口處築起阻擋海水灌入古城區的巨型門牆。只是,有義大利的地球物理學家聲稱,這個計畫早二十年前就已施行過了,因為全球暖化嚴重而告失敗,所以,這三十億也將白花。他的看法自然引起主持「Save Venice」的那票專家的反駁。至今仍舊各持己見,爭論不休。

然而,見到今冬維也納森林地區之少雪,且暖和了幾日便見櫻花芽苞蠢抽,我悲觀地預見另一座亞特蘭蒂斯的陷落,而文明高展再成千萬年後人類苦苦追尋而不可復得的烏托邦。

是命?是運?

那個Gondolier(搖Gondola的人)聽了遊客唸著拜倫的詩,先是不置可否,隨後卻脫下藺草帽朝空揮了一下,輕嗤:「我們比較擔心NATO的炸彈!」(註)

遊客又問:「那麼,到底有沒有人想辦法來拯救威尼斯呀?」

Gondolier沉吟一會:「是在築牆呀!但,威尼斯在下沉,海水在上漲。」對這類話題,他言簡調輕,顯然意興闌珊。

對於下沉問題,威尼斯人雖無奈,卻能夠勉力調適來接受逐漸逼近的命運。但是,被炸彈炸死,確實是難以接受的突來橫禍。一如驟暖大水起。

回返維也納的火車上,義大利婦女跟我說:「我也不知道該怎麼講才好。一到夏天,觀光客擠得滿城都是,幾乎要將威尼斯踩扁了,大型郵輪穿過水深僅五公尺的大運河,見大船由外海駛入城來,美是美,尤其是起霧時,但一想到它吃水十公尺,攪壞了水底土層,使兩旁的建築物地基歪傾,便一點都不美了。但是,威尼斯沒有觀光客不能存活,有也不能存活,你說,我們是該恨觀光客還是歡迎他們呢?」

我沒敢答腔。心想,這次大概是我最後的威尼斯之旅了。


註:一九九九年五月,出海作業的威尼斯漁夫拉起一網的炸彈時引爆了其中一顆,炸傷了船上的三個人。事後查出,駐紮巴爾幹NATO的美國空軍曾經將一堆炸彈誤投入威尼斯附近的亞德里亞海。

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威尼斯的流浪漢【張清志】【2006/03/10 聯合報】

離開威尼斯前一天,才決定去提錢。其實早已出現現金危機,只因行前友人一再告誡,義大利多扒手,為免身懷鉅款成為偷兒目標,才隱忍至最後一刻。

出國前,事先打聽了,朋友說只要機器上有全球通行符號的,便可直接提款。為此我還帶了兩張提款卡以防萬一。沒想到插卡之後,均出現銀行關閉帳戶的訊息,事後才知,要在海外提款,仍需知會台灣的銀行,取得密碼才行。

這下慘了,出門在外,沒有現金可是寸步難行。就說前一晚,挑了家看似便宜的中國餐館,一吃才知道,單價雖低,東西卻少;要吃飽,一樣得花大錢。我點了炒米粉和一碗蟹肉湯,加小費要了八塊多歐元,只填了半個肚子。問可不可以刷卡,女侍還語氣尖苛,說這價錢太低了,不能刷。離碰到救兵的下兩站還有兩天半,身上只剩三十七塊歐元,真讓人焦慮喪氣,頓時像個無主遊魂,不知何去何從了。

幸好天無絕人之路,一抬頭,絡繹不絕的人潮引我注意,原來是家超市。進去買了一隻烤雞、一罐利樂包白葡萄汁、兩個麵包、一包蘋果餡餅,一共花了7.50歐元,如此就解決了午晚兩餐加點心,比前晚一頓飯便宜,還可刷卡。原來威尼斯的物價不如想像的貴,外頭餐廳的標價專屬觀光客,超級市場才是在地人的生活水平。

在威尼斯極易迷路,牆上的標示也僅供參考,充分顯露義大利人的不精準。我毫無目標任意亂走,來到一處不知名小廣場,四周座椅噴著各色油漆塗鴉,地上散落菸蒂,垃圾桶也處處污漬,看來雜亂不潔。

一隻肥貓見我在椅子上坐下,毫不懼人大方走過來,等我分牠吃食。站在我面前還不夠,竟然跳上花台,大剌剌靠坐我手邊。我實不慣與陌生貓如此親近,雖然牠看來毫無落魄像,甚且光鮮體面。開口噓牠,牠很不以為然回瞪我一眼,百般不願慢悠悠步下花台。真是好大膽子,沒遇過壞人。這裡是歐洲,鴿子、海鷗跟野貓都不怕人。聖馬可廣場上的鴿子簡直是霸王,密密麻麻比人還多不說,不時還跳上人肩上手上以示親暱,簡直蔚為奇觀。動物權比人權還大,誰都得讓牠們幾分。

可惜我是個窮鬼,沒什麼東西分牠吃。

看牠戀戀不捨離去,便撕了一小塊麵包丟地上。沒想到牠略嗅一下,不領情地轉頭走了。等我把烤雞拿出來,才又悠悠踱回來,依在我腳下,磨蹭著我的腳討食。雞很香,抹了許多香草去烤,跟其他城市買到那種只抹鹽巴的不同。我把吃剩的骨頭丟給牠,牠吃得好急,不時回頭望我,看是否有新貨色丟下來,殷殷所盼,無非美食。人貓分食,這是朱天心理想的世界嗎?

感覺自己有點落魄,像個流浪漢,奇怪的自尊心作祟,見人走過竟有一絲羞赧。旅行前才跟朋友戲說要去流浪了,沒想到這下真像流浪漢了。歐洲流浪漢的名堂很多,衣衫襤褸裝窮裝苦當然最常見;也見過滿臉傷痕,跪在一只麥當勞紙杯前;還有身邊擺一張妻兒照片,表情愁苦意指親人遠在他方,急須他賺錢回家,好贏得同情票。他們似乎也能靠著大量觀光客的施捨得以存活,同情真是廉價的東西。當街才藝表演的,在我看來也算一種乞討形式,只是高尚點,至少還能有所付出。如果是我,真不知該用哪種手段才好,當街賣藝沒本事,裝瘋賣傻又臉皮太薄演技不佳,只能活活等餓死吧。威尼斯之死,也是一種浪漫。不過我還沒走到那一步,流浪漢的氣味只是想像。

為貓拍了幾張照片,同甘共苦的紀念。牠也毫不扭捏閃躲,比人還大方。見我把剩下的半隻雞收起,已然無啥利用價值,便稍稍清理殘留地面的幾塊碎骨,一臉傲然不理人走了,真是經驗豐富深諳遊戲規則的勢利貓。

我把葡萄汁打開,發現竟然是白酒,一瓶折合新台幣不到五十塊錢的白酒,又是一次不可想像。可惜貓走了,不然或許可以共飲一杯,撫慰一下我這自艾自憐的想像悲情。

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文學裡的威尼斯圖象【劉森堯】【2006/03/10 聯合報】

湯瑪斯‧曼:《魂斷威尼斯》世俗的榮耀和財富,沒有一樣比得上你那溫柔的眼神。─Franz West-ermeier, 1950

湯瑪斯‧曼在《魂斷威尼斯》中這樣寫道:「艾森巴哈想,坐火車進入威尼斯就像是從後門走進一棟宮殿一樣,到像威尼斯這樣一個不可思議的城市來,應該像他現在這樣,搭船由海路前來,那才是宮殿的正門。」的確不錯,只有到過威尼斯的人才能理解這句話,因此,艾森巴哈在一個決定命運的春日午後搭船前來威尼斯,他除了想到天氣之外沒想別的,希望威尼斯能夠以陽光普照來迎接他,但是海天一色,天空鉛灰灰的,還夾雜著毛毛細雨,他覺得在接近陸地時,由水路可以到達另一個威尼斯。

黃昏時,我坐在聖馬可廣場旁側長廊上抽菸喝咖啡,桌上攤開《魂斷威尼斯》,細細追尋著書中主角艾森巴哈的足跡。整個下午我不斷在迷宮般的大街小巷穿梭轉折,我穿過許多陰森幽黯的小胡同,覺得氣氛蕭瑟逼人。不過,一走到聖馬可廣場,感覺就非同凡響了,剛剛下過一場驟雨,天空壓得很低,空氣格外冷峻。聖馬可大教堂高高矗立在那兒,看去是既老邁又雄偉。廣場上遊人如織,鴿子滿地蹦跳。再往前望去,不遠的地方就是外海,延伸進來的想必就是聖馬可運河,我想這裡大概就是湯瑪斯‧曼所說的宮殿大門,也是整個威尼斯城最美麗壯觀的地方,看起來的確氣象萬千,氣派非凡。

麗都酒店,那裡正是艾森巴哈邂逅波蘭美少年達秋的地方,驚為天人!電影《無極》中的鬼狼對他的北國同鄉說:「切忌動情,動情的時刻,也就是死亡逼近的時候。」另一部電影《金剛》裡頭的最後,有人說,金剛不是被槍砲射殺,他是被美麗殺死,簡言之,他因動情而死。同樣,當艾森巴哈第一眼見到達秋時,他即註定必死無疑,因此,小說發展到最後,艾森巴哈並不是死於霍亂,他實在是死於美貌的誘惑──那雙要命的溫柔眼神!

這一連串有關愛的隱喻,無非在跟我們暗示:愛和死根本上是連成一氣的。愛一冒出來,死亡的意念隨即跟到,但也因為有愛的伴隨,死就變得不可怕,愛能夠造就視死如歸的精神,教人感到此去無悔,湯瑪斯‧曼在《魔山》中即說過:愛是死亡的剋星。這是愛的悲劇性格,也是愛那麼值得稱頌的理由,殉情遂成為愛的最終同時也是最高的形式,要不是這樣,像《羅密歐與茱麗葉》那麼庸俗的青少年戀愛故事怎麼可能會那麼吸引人,能夠千古傳誦?這對青少年男女既不是死於兩家世仇的逼壓,也不是死於陰錯陽差,當然也不是死於欠缺心理輔導,他們顯然死於愛的致命誘惑,他們為愛殉情而死,無怨無悔。馬奎斯《愛在瘟疫蔓延時》的主角在他已死去的父親所遺留的筆記中讀到:我這輩子的最大遺憾,就是沒能為愛而死。

艾森巴哈為愛而死,霍亂蔓延到水都時他仍不願意走,並不是因為他不怕死,主要還是因為他被愛拘絆住,可是,這是同性愛呀!問題是,同性愛不是愛嗎?曼在中年以後經常在日記中透露他對美少年的著迷,比如他會為酒店裡的俊美男服務生神魂顛倒,竟日在那裡流連忘返,也會在街上尾隨身影俊美的少年,直到暈頭轉向為止。

如今我們才能真正看明白,《魂斷威尼斯》裡頭的艾森巴哈這個中年作家角色,有人說在影射當時曼已死去的作曲家朋友馬勒,事實上,這顯然是曼自己的性心理告白,另一方面,這同時也是曼自己對威尼斯熱愛的一種禮讚方式,他和歌德一樣,一輩子都是義大利文化的仰慕者,羅馬、翡冷翠、威尼斯是他們創作心靈的第二故鄉,如今他把自己的性靈秘密和威尼斯緊緊結合在一起,寫出了二十世紀西方文學最撼動人的一則愛的隱喻。

由 mrs.turtle 發表於 March 10, 2006 03:23 PM | 引用
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