May 14, 2006

轉載:恩費爾德的伊利亞隨筆

【柔之】 【2006/05/13 聯合報】 @ http://udn.com

循著藍姆姊弟的蹤跡

我對倫敦的恩費爾德自治區(Enfield)不熟悉,對其散文家居民藍姆(Charles Lamb)也陌生;但我還是決定一遊恩費爾德,除了可以循著藍姆姊弟的蹤跡,重讀「青春版」的莎士比亞故事之外,當然還可以探訪皇室的莊園佛緹離宮(Forty Hall)。這裡隨處呈現的林園綠地帶,它們的古雅與多樣化,讓人想到藍姆的《依利亞隨筆》(Essays of Elia)。

恩費爾德位於倫敦的最北方,若要到這個小城必須先搭地面火車在恩費爾德獵場站(Enfield Chase Station)下車。這個小城屬於較偏遠的鄉城,居民只有三十萬人,有三分之二的地區還是園林帶(受保護的風景區),所以整個區域顯得空曠,人煙稀少。藍姆姊弟會選擇此區安頓生活,大概跟幽靜疏遠的景觀有關,因為這樣的環境有助於調養他們家族的遺傳精神病症。原本深愛倫敦生活的藍姆,由於姊姊瑪麗(Mary Lamb)的精神疾病而遷居至此安居,必有他的道理。

藍姆的散文是公認的名家手筆,我在學院雖沒念過,但也知道教授通常會將他的作品當作學英語的讀本,更不用說他姊弟倆合作改寫的《莎士比亞故事集》了,這些作品已經成為少年認識莎士比亞的必讀物。藍姆的作品跟恩費爾德有何關係呢?其實應該說恩費爾德是藍姆完成作品後,隱修靜養的地方,他在這裡過著回憶倫敦生活的日子。

荒疏的風景 是製造甜美回憶的溫床

恩費爾德其實是個集合城市,由幾個衛星城組成。早期原本是皇室的狩獵場,十六世紀之後才漸漸規畫成鄉城,於是有了恩費爾德城(Enfield Town),也開發了鐵路,跟市區的聯繫漸漸頻繁,近代更有修護重建成新興城市的計畫,這可從城中到處是修建工程的痕跡看出來;這些景象似乎和文藝沒什麼聯想,更不像藍姆寫的《伊利亞隨筆》,倘若你讀過這本散文集,就可以理解藍姆的懷舊與感傷了。原住在倫敦市柯芬園的藍姆姊弟,搬到此區定居養病,看重的我想已不再是柯芬園市場熱絡吵鬧的人聲了,反而是荒疏的風景,因為這正是製造甜美回憶的溫床。

恩費爾德城有自己的教區及市集,還有一條人工河———新河(New River)流經,但由於偏離倫敦市,故向來受到冷落,你在此區看不到什麼建設也應該能理解。從獵場車站走出來沒多久就可以來到紳士街(Gen-tleman's Row),1825年藍姆退休後,就跟瑪麗移居到此。紳士街上的一排都鐸風格房子面對著亨利八世的狩獵綠園(Chase Green),這個廣大的獵場可以延伸到蒙肯海德蕾(Monken Hadley),伊莉莎白一世以及詹姆斯一世都曾造訪過,皇室在獵場上狩獵馳騁的時候,很可能不喜有居民出沒,故此區一直都處於荒疏空曠狀態,英國人已經習慣於它的荒廢景象了。藍姆曾因瑪麗的病情多次搬家,但都不出於這一帶。

儘管景觀荒疏,恩費爾德除了有藍姆姊弟的足跡可循之外,還有流經的蜿蜒新河;走過荷利步道 (Holly Walk),經過哈代結婚的聖安卓教堂,不久就會來到佛緹離宮;沿途你當然可以看到許多特別規畫的雜樹林,每年夏天林中都會開滿芬芳的花草,點綴著荒疏的風景,也許你在觀賞風景之際,不知不覺就瞥見林中閃出的佛緹離宮了。這座皇室莊園現為開放的博物館,十四世紀時就有了,到了十六世紀就變成亨利八世狩獵居住的離宮,演進到了十七世紀,才有位伯爵將其改建為現在的景觀,列為一級建築;從周遭的庭園規畫,以及東廂種植的黎巴嫩柏樹列草坪看來,似乎有點異國情調。英國是世界最美的縮影,當然處處有異國的瞥見,即使是荒遠的狩獵場。

新建築參差不齊散布雜樹林間,形成似非而是的和諧

走到這裡,我們似乎忘懷了藍姆。當年還住在柯芬園的藍姆曾寫信告訴文友說,柯芬園比艾爾辛諾皇室庭園(Garden of Alcinous)更令他喜愛;搬到恩費爾德後,居住在面對佛緹離宮的紳士街的他,是不是也會說街後的新河堤岸上,春天盛開的紅白杏花比佛緹離宮更令他歎賞呢?這樣的浪漫情懷也許比他的隨筆更甜蜜、雋永。

十九世紀中葉起,恩費爾德就開始執行一波又一波的修建計畫,現在已成為聞名的市集中心,城中的大街名牌廠商林立,新近台北正流行的藥妝品牌Boots也名列其中;當然也有劇院、美術館、餐廳、咖啡館等,顯然這個鄉城已經邁入文明的新紀元了,觸目這些景象,漸漸感覺到原本聲名含蓄的藍姆,現在就更隱匿,不彰顯了。他筆下懷舊感傷的調調似乎也逐漸為人們淡忘。

恩費爾德城的優點就是它的廣大公園綠地帶。新建築景象參差不齊地散布在一座座的雜樹林間,形成似非而是的和諧。文明的景象漸漸鋪蓋了這一片荒疏的公園綠地,市集大街上密度適中的遊逛人潮,新穎的穿著打扮,新奇的行為舉動,新鮮的生活創意……面對這些,我們是要像藍姆一樣懷舊感傷呢?還是懷抱著前程憧憬?也是詩人的藍姆有句名詩:
如今都已消逝,那昔日親切的臉。
懷人如懷景,回憶似乎比較甜蜜,然而若不懷抱憧憬,生活又為何?
陌生的恩費爾德之旅竟有如此出人意料的收穫,值得一遊。

由 mrs.turtle 發表於 May 14, 2006 02:33 PM | 引用
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