June 28, 2006

布達佩斯咖啡館【1】地窖咖啡Angelika

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讀到「柏林人文漫步」的尾聲,看到一段很犀利的文字,帶著深沈的無奈,描述著過去那個年代,咖啡館在一個城市中所扮演的角色。而今,這些咖啡館一概的轉為觀光客朝聖的地方,只為去瞻仰那位大師、那位作家、那位名人,曾經在那裡說過什麼、寫過什麼、留下什麼,不過,更多的只是附庸風雅罷了,包含我自己,也曾經在巴黎、維也納、布拉格、羅馬各處的知名咖啡館裡,企圖從咖啡香裡找到什麼嗎?

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現在能找到的,大概只有庸俗的觀光客與晚娘的服務生。

書中在p.238的文字寫著:

『為什麼再也沒有文學咖啡館了呢?那些波西米亞人都在哪裡?知識份子吃喝的地點有何種功能,為什麼今天的作家沒有這些地點也可以活呢?__因為他們再也不拿筆寫作,而是在家裡的電腦前……因為在咖啡館中再也見不到什麼……因為他們害怕聚成團體……因為他們在中央供暖的住宅中不再受凍……因為他們早就全突變成為自己個人公司的負責人……因為他們不知道什麼是真正的困頓,也就不需要任何幫助……因為他們對自己和鄰人一樣不感興趣……因為大家所說所想的都一樣,因此也就不值得一聽?』

這個論點還真的可以適用於現代的每個城市……。

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咖啡館入口處

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店招嗎?寫什麼也看不懂

在歐洲旅行,各式各樣的咖啡館,接待著各式各樣的旅人,有人只是站著喝杯咖啡當早餐,有人只是坐在廣場咖啡座圖個休息,有人單純只為喝杯咖啡,有人為了咖啡館逝去的靈魂而去,有人則為了咖啡館的空間來的。

布達佩斯河岸邊的這家「Angelika」,沒有特別的歷史傳說,也沒有特別的名人軼事,只是看到了旅遊書上一句簡短的描述「a former crypt of St Anne’s Church」,對於地窖空間有偏執狂的兩個人,就決定來試試。

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咖啡館就對著國會大廈

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右岸的電車軌道已淹沒在水中,最精華的2號電車停駛了好幾天
左岸的41、19號仍可勉強行駛

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地鐵站的入口,堆滿沙包

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水來時,真的有用處嗎?

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廣場最醒目的地標,就是教堂,咖啡館就位在教堂左邊低矮的建築一樓,不是真的地窖,只是低了幾個石階的高度。布達佩斯的人仍然很有共黨的色彩。

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公車站牌上不知道寫著什麼公告,我兩一個字也看不懂,等了好久好久,想搭的車都沒來,最後只好放棄

四月份的布達佩斯,正飽受春季高山融冰的水患威脅,高漲的水位,淹沒了河岸邊的電車軌道,頂著河邊強勁冰冷的風勢,我們只好繞道步行前來。St Anne’s Church位在Batthyány tér廣場,對岸正對的就是雄渾壯麗的國會大廈,這個廣場也是布達這區的公車、地鐵、電車轉運站,很多當地人正狐疑的等著今天不會再發車的公共交通,互相使著詭異的眼神。

新穎的地鐵站入口,用幾個不具作用的沙包擋著,歐洲這些城市,每年春天都得被上游高山的冰水給威脅恐嚇一次,卻也沒人因為財產損失,執意要築起醜陋的水泥,鄰近的捷克、德國、奧地利也有這樣的問題,似乎也用同樣的態度面對,在這裡,「美」勝過一切的言論,這在台灣,可能每年春天都得下台一位部長吧。

雙塔巴洛克式的教區教堂,是廣場上的焦點,而我們今天的目的不是教堂,是教堂地窖改成的咖啡館。

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這個近灰白的色調,很適合咖啡館

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自然採光的窗戶,與室內的燈源相互輝映

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吧台位在入口處,不知道該點什麼蛋糕,可以跟服務生到蛋糕櫃前直接點

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這個時間,店內只有寥寥幾人

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這是我們坐的窗口

寬敞舒適的地窖拱頂空間,少了「佩斯」那一頭咖啡館的擁擠觀光人潮,當然也就多了親切和善的服務生,三三兩兩的在地客人,躲在各自隱密的角落,互不相打擾。卸下了一整天疲憊的身心,在咖啡館的昏黃燈光中,舒服暢快的綴飲一杯咖啡,當然也得來一塊美麗、美味而且價廉的蛋糕,總算知道什麼叫做「松蘿餃」,原文Somloi Galuska,食譜上說這是在冰過的蘭姆酒葡萄乾蛋糕上,用巧克力醬和鮮奶油擠出美麗的圖案,香甜爽口又飽足,來到布達佩斯,千萬別錯過了這道匈牙利名點,可惜我只嚐了一次,似乎每家咖啡館的作法與擺盤不盡相同。

這回的布達佩斯咖啡館只有三家經驗,相信我能很快把他們介紹完畢。

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松蘿餃

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咖啡蛋糕

由 mrs.turtle 發表於 June 28, 2006 09:28 PM | 引用
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exwrbyc 發表於 November 30, 2012 05:31 AM

丸子,
我也是很懷念啊
應該多待幾天的
我就能多品嚐幾家

Stefanie,
基本上調性應該很雷同
同一家公司出品嘛
不過
感覺上1D的色調更柔和 層次感更豐富
10D比較濃豔一點
要再多拍一些不同的空間與光線
才能看出異同來
努力中

把英國 歐陸全部重新拍過一遍
你是不是太異想天開了啊
沒這個"財"條啦
但是看到以前用G2拍的地方
真的很想再去一次啊
那時候老P還是用底片的時代
底片當然不能愛拍多少就拍多少
我的G2記憶卡只有256MB
是拍了很多還不錯的
但是裡面都多了一個人
哈哈
因為都拿來拍人像"紀念照"了
想要把人給裁掉還真是不太可能
都擺在最重要的位置上了
還好幻燈片應該還累積了不少
回去再慢慢整理了

Dodo,
真的是好滋味喔
淋上溫熱的巧克力醬
正點啊

kaya,
那是用Canon那個軟體調的
把色彩飽和度拉很低很低的效果
這個空間真的很讚
我最喜愛的就是"燈罩"的設計
那些用布套包起來的燈罩
上面加了一些橫條
透過光
在不規則的拱頂與牆面產生了奇幻的光影
還會隨著窗口光線的強弱改變喔
厲害厲害
如果能用腳架在現場慢拍
一定可以有很多不錯的表現吧

usosally,
謝謝你補充了這一點
不知為何
咖啡館總能給人一種滿足又穩定的感覺
就像啊
在家看著電腦一個字也寫不出來時
那著紙筆到咖啡館坐下來
馬上就能文思泉湧啊
怪哉
老P說"不要找藉口"
可是那是真的啊

這些椅子的造型
還真的很特別
而且好舒服啊
會不會覺得這風格也很東歐

alison,
這蛋糕不僅美味
而且你猜猜這兩杯咖啡+兩份甜點價值多少?

答案是1730匈牙利幣
不到英鎊5塊啊
而且還是那份松蘿餃貴了一些
不然其他款式的蛋糕都1鎊以內就可解決
剛回來面對英國超市的蛋糕
頓時讓我下不了手~~~唉

turtle 發表於 June 29, 2006 04:53 PM

好棒的感覺!喜歡這種看來舒適的咖啡廳...:-)
這蛋糕光看有覺得好吃!要跑那麼遠才吃的到喔?!

alison 發表於 June 29, 2006 03:41 PM

那個椅子看起來就很好坐的樣子
對我而言
咖啡館的存在就是在慌亂的城市裡找一個安全的地方把自己放進去
用最便宜的租金給自己一個空檔
空間上跟時間上的
所以
椅子是重要的

usosally 發表於 June 29, 2006 02:31 PM

哇~~那松蘿餃看起來好好吃哦!
希望有機會能試試那味道呢 >

灰白色調的咖啡館雖然感覺冷了點,
但覺得很搭,似乎更能感受到室內的空間感呢…
那是調過白平衡之後拍的嗎? 還是回來後製的啊?

kaya 發表於 June 29, 2006 10:02 AM

哇!!那個松籮餃看起來好讚....慘了...我今天晚上一定會夢到它...冰過的藍姆酒葡萄蛋糕...天堂!!原來就在教堂的地窖中!

Dodo 發表於 June 29, 2006 04:52 AM

有氣氛又有氣質的咖啡館!!

哇~以前看到10D的照片就很滿足了
結果剛去老P那看完1D的試拍再來看這裡
突然想很知道用1D拍的同景會呈現如何呀??

你們有了1D
會不會想把英國.歐陸全部重新"拍"過一遍呀???

Stefanie 發表於 June 29, 2006 04:35 AM

哦.好棒的地方
看起来好美味的甜品

丸子 發表於 June 29, 2006 02:51 AM
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