July 19, 2006

童話小鎮「漢謬登」

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出發前兩個月,很努力的搜尋旅遊資料、消化資料、彙整資料,希望理出一點頭緒來,德國領土這麼大,該從哪裡開始好呢?雖也整理出好幾頁的表格,把各個點依據現代建築、歷史建築、UNESCO、還有德國各種千奇百怪的大道(Street)等分別都標上了星號,越多顆星代表越重要,最後歸類的結果,重點城鎮還是太多,反而不知道該從那一個開始下手!?

想了很久,第一站該去哪兒?

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市政廳

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從河中小島看小鎮

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遊客中心的裝飾

那就選一個看起來最不起眼的地方吧,先來點清爽的開胃菜,讓我們的腳步與感覺先貼近德國的氣息。

德國首站「Hann. Münden」,出發!

我們所在的卡塞爾(Kassel),跟英國的雪菲爾有點雷同,這裡是德國的重工業之都(不過雪菲爾現在只剩下刀叉!?),過去是,現在仍是,例如DB火車頭、賓士車軸承、福斯車變速箱等等;兩個城市都帶有點上下起伏的坡度,只是這裡的校園在低處、市區與車站在高處,跟雪菲爾相反,走起來還真是累,還好已經練就了四年的無敵腳力,可以輕鬆適應,也還好之間的距離不太遠;就連在市區跑的電車都覺得跟雪菲爾似曾相似。

不過,這裡是個觀光城,也是五年一度卡塞爾文件大展(Documenta,當代藝術展)舉辦的地點,因此熱鬧許多,可以看的東西也多很多,市區外圍就有座著名的城堡山(Wilhelmshöhe),可以從1號電車的軸線遠眺,這些就留待日後慢慢介紹。

連接周圍地區的火車不需要再搭電車到外圍新站,只要在Kassel Hbf總站搭乘即可,老舊的車站正在進行龐大的改建工程,地區性的火車與電車軌道要逐漸地下化,廣場前滿布著圍籬、工程車、吊臂車與流浪漢,德國流浪漢還真不少。

在DB櫃臺買了兩人同行票,Hann. Münden來回加上兩地的公車與電車€11,非常實惠,連BahnCard都派不上用場。搭上往古廷根(Göttingen)方向的RB列車,19分鐘就抵達了這個童話小鎮,怎麼這個小鎮的車站與月台也在整修,DB真是經費充裕。

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小鎮裡,總是有許多吸引人的藝品店(this is for mr. and mrs. SHIMADA)

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當然,一定會碰上"龜"朋友

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小鎮裡的傳奇故事主角_醫生

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兩條河的匯流處有個石碑,不知道寫些什麼

車站步行到老城區的距離很近,這是童話大道(Fairy-tale Route)上的小鎮,但似乎跟格林童話無關,這個小鎮以擁有700棟半木構造建築,還有18世紀初一位醫生的故事(Doctor Eisenbart)聞名,實在也不知道這號人物是誰,就悠閒的在這個比童話故事還童話的小城鎮裡溜達一下午吧。

老城區位在兩條河流的匯流處(Werra與Fulda),有河流流經的地方總是特別美,範圍很小的古城,我們最愛的尺度,全是白色牆壁搭著因年代久遠而自然乾縮歪斜的木構架,歪的真是離譜,造型真是有機,街上開著一家又一家的當地小商店,蔬果攤、服飾店、鞋店、麵包店、小酒吧、餐廳、藝品店、書店等等,除了主要大街之外,大概都是服務當地居民的小店。

小鎮裡的德國觀光客不少,國際觀光客就不常見了,是啊,德國這麼多精彩的大城,誰會來到這個僻靜的小地方呢。就隨意在舊城區走走,先走東西向的街道,再走南北向的,每條街巷都頗具趣味性與可看性,老舊的門與窗,歪斜的木構架,彩色的門楣,小巧創意的招牌,偶爾再來幾尊特別的雕像,一路上驚喜連連。

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正在準備演唱會的工作人員

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正在練習的樂團

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每一條街道都長這樣

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教堂前廣場的噴水池,實在快熱昏頭了,派小烏龜下去沖個涼吧

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主要大街,這條就屬於觀光客的地方了

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市政廳外牆上的淹水記錄

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河邊一棟建築上,也發現了淹水記錄

市政廳前的廣場,正在準備晚上的演唱會,擺好了座位、搭好了舞台、樂手正在練習、工作人員正在做最後的確認工作,真不知道在這樣的小廣場上聽演唱會是什麼感覺,可惜不能留到這麼晚。

有河流的地方,就會有水患的歷史,那天在科隆青年旅館,看見牆上吊了許多萊茵河淹水的老照片,在這個小城,沒見到歷史照片,卻看到兩棟主要建築物上,標示著哪一年的淹水高度,最近一次是1995,很有意思的紀錄。

這個星期的藍天,實在藍得徹底,搭配著色彩豔麗的建築,就是一幅德國小城最經典的印象,中部這一帶,還有為數不少的半木構造建築,喜歡歸納整裡的德國人,當然也規劃出好幾條的「木構造之路(Framework Road )」,讓你一次看個夠。

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從老城區要先跨越這座加了頂蓋的橋,到河中小島,島上是停車場

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這橋讓我想起瑞士的琉森

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然後,再從島上另一邊的鐵橋,來到河的對岸

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這就是頂著大熱天爬上高點的代價,很值得吧

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俯視老城

近距離的看完這些風格獨特的木構之屋,可以跨過河,先是一座有頂蓋的木橋,來到河中的小島,再是一座鐵橋來到對岸,循著林中小徑,爬上對岸山坡上的狩獵塔「Tillyschanze」,意志不堅的我,在下午三點的烈陽下,看到這個坡度與這個距離,幾度想放棄。無奈,在這麼美的光線之下,堅持一定要到至高點拍一張全景圖的老P,拖著我硬是爬了上去,途中還碰上兩對杵著柺杖的老先生老太太,他們是怎麼辦到的啊。果然,山上的俯瞰視野實在讓我不知如何形容,走這段山路值得啊,住在這個城裡的老夫妻,指著山腳下的各個角落,不知道在爭辯什麼,一個人比這邊、一個人比那邊,煞是有趣,能有這樣的環境來回憶,真令人羨慕。

有時候,真喜愛這樣的小地方,完全不知道哪裡是哪裡,也不用知道什麼教堂、城堡、博物館,愜意的四處走走,也會有許多意想不到的收穫與驚豔。

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建築上的裝飾

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住宅區旁的兒童遊戲場

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市政廳正在舉辦畢業典禮嗎?每個年輕人手上都拿著一支紅玫瑰與一份藍色證書

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教堂前廣場上的鋪面,鑲嵌著許多童趣的特別地磚,每一塊都不一樣

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這是個啤酒比水便宜的國家,一天要來上好幾瓶,一瓶水2歐,這瓶啤酒只要0.29歐,當然是喝啤酒比較消暑囉

由 mrs.turtle 發表於 July 19, 2006 11:45 AM | 引用
迴響

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真喜歡這小鎮的風情...不知道真正在裡頭生活起來
會不會真像是活在童話故事裡頭 我已經可以想像自己
是小木偶 是霍爾移動城堡中做帽子的蘇菲 是小紅帽準備去找外婆 是任何一個童話故事的角色
呵呵...

milla 發表於 July 28, 2006 07:17 AM

呵呵,對這對龜,我沒有研究啦
只是玩過相同原理的玩具
我玩的那種,是兩只小豬 ^ @ ^

PaPa 發表於 July 24, 2006 05:21 AM

ALex,
看來你也是個很務實的人哪
呵呵
景觀史~~沒唸過啦
我只修過一年的景觀設計概論
是個很糟的糟老頭上的課
收穫看來是沒有出來旅行學的多啊

PaPa,
你也太厲害
怎麼會對這對烏龜有研究哪
這很有名嗎
我一點都不知道啊>@

turtle 發表於 July 23, 2006 09:17 PM

如果我沒猜錯的話,那對應該是“kissing turtle”吧。
其中一隻龜的身體裡裝有小馬達
只要將兩隻龜拉開,馬達就會轉動
與此同時,兩隻龜嘴上的繩子就會越縮越短,而牠們也越靠越近
直到親吻在一起……

呼呼 ~~~ (^///^)

PaPa 發表於 July 22, 2006 09:50 AM

那你就跟我一樣...是苦行僧一族...嘿嘿
(因為我朋友他們出去都帶小包包=>我覺得一點用都沒有)

還有..德國的老城設計的市中心"市政廳外加一個廣場"
是沿習中古歐洲的城市設計產生的
市中心的廣場通常是主要道路相接的地方
中間通常會有個噴泉或是雕像
這個設計後來演變成美國早期小鎮中心village green
=>以前念景觀史的東西:P, 獻醜
不知道你念規劃有沒有類似的東西??

ALex 發表於 July 21, 2006 09:20 PM

kaya,
我也很納悶這麼高的樓房
木構架就能承受嗎
不過這是"半"木構架
不知道另一半是什麼
再來查清楚

螞蟻?
真能想啊
那對烏龜嘴巴還連在一起
不拆猜開賣

MAKOTO,
哈哈
那就真的有眼福了
因為這裡每個小鎮都長這樣
厲害吧
奇怪
跟德國人給人的印象完全不一樣
堅毅 固執 嚴肅 木訥 呆板

idqpbi,
謝謝你的翻譯囉
翻得不錯哩
只是為什麼會麻煩就大了
是指水患嗎

Cougar,
快別太感動
這只是前菜啊
還沒上主菜
還有湯 甜點 水果 咖啡...

Atsu,
I don't know why there are so many cats in shop.
The frog shape is from "Frog Prince" story.
Hope the heat wave will leave soon, and we could carry on our joureny in Germany.

NANA,
真的嗎
下次要多多注意其他城市的紀錄
中歐這些國家常常飽受水患之苦啊

ALex,
現在發現
德國的每個地方
就是一個市政廳外加一個廣場
組成城市的中心
模式都一樣耶

阿莫,
小烏龜是站在我的背包上啦
為什麼啤酒不要喝太多呢
在這裡啤酒比水便宜好多好多
只好當一個夏天的酒鬼
回去可能會肥起來喔

Alex,
說到背包
我不是小包包一族啦
那是之前給G2裝的
這趟旅行帶來裝一些隨身物品也不錯用
我出門也是後背包
要裝水 裝筆記本 裝地圖 裝旅遊書 裝相機
當然要背大包包囉

turtle 發表於 July 21, 2006 10:55 AM

咳咳~妳們也玩得很認真阿~
還說我.....哈哈~

我喜歡這個小鎮,我一直都比較喜歡小鎮。
非常有特色,不過小烏龜蹲在山頂那張是墊了衣服嗎?
該不會是老P彎下腰給烏龜坐吧?!

哈哈,我怎麼都講一些奇怪的地方,anyways,
玩耍也要認真,倒是啤酒不要喝太多,多啃一點
西瓜好了!

阿莫 發表於 July 19, 2006 09:58 PM

其實這個小鎮看起來不錯阿...
大概是跟格林兄弟求學有關吧

說到童話大道...它的起點哈瑙(格林兄弟的出生地)
倒是很令人失望, 因為唯一跟童話有關的
就只有格林兄弟的雕像跟指出他們家被轟炸掉之前的舊址立牌, 然後有些紀念品攤有提到
不過老城區的博物館跟市政聽(聽說是還存在的市政聽建築中最老的)都還不錯看...好笑的是, 我住法蘭克福郊區的姑姑姑丈都不知道哈瑙是格林兄弟的出生地>"真是浪費~~~因為從法蘭克福到哈瑙真的很近很近...

ALex 發表於 July 19, 2006 09:36 PM

真是認真的令人感動阿~夫人
不過可以開始玩了真好呢
德國在有河流經過的城鎮
大部分都有像你所看到的那種淹水紀錄
不過第一次看到紀錄在房子上的

NANA 發表於 July 19, 2006 02:03 PM

Oh, cats and frog again!
謝謝.

And we really admire your photos again and again.
It's a great encounter high quality cameras and both of your skills!!
I continue to wait for your report from Germany.

Atsu 發表於 July 19, 2006 12:55 PM

不知為什麼~ 看了好感動~
有這麼認真的遊記跟漂亮的照片~
眼框都紅了....

Cougar 發表於 July 19, 2006 12:34 PM

那塊石頭上好象說的是:

WERRA和FULDA在此地親吻, 這一吻可就麻煩大了
德國從此就經由WESER一路出海了

(都是河流名字)
好象這塊石頭是當地大富豪所立, 其文字押韻游戲實在沒法翻譯好, 見笑了...

idqpbi 發表於 July 19, 2006 11:35 AM

赞!!
之前因为有做动画片的想法,
一直想要欧洲小镇的照片资料,
在一本书上看到一张德国小镇的照片就觉得非常中意,
很童话的感觉,可惜怎么也找不到更多。
哈哈这次夫人去了德国,我真是有眼福了!
夫人多多拍哟!!!
这样的小镇真是非常美丽啊!
不过照片上那些房子长得好像啊!
墙都是一格一格的呢~~

MAKOTO 發表於 July 19, 2006 10:05 AM

哇~~很可愛…不…是"大"可愛的小鎮!
剛看到第一張照片的顏色,就覺得很童話,
會想到卡通裹面的小鎮場景…
但繼續看下去,這建築物的尺度好像挺大的,
不過…我還是很喜歡街道的感覺,很有特色的建築立面,讚!

不過…那兩隻應該是turtle沒錯啦,可是不知為什麼,
我看到他們,一直想到螞蟻說^^"

kaya 發表於 July 19, 2006 10:03 AM
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