July 25, 2006

不來梅樂師

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竟然在德國的第一週就遇到熱浪襲擊,每天出門都撐到烤焦了、曬昏了,才拖著疲累的身軀回到宿舍,皮膚出現一種焦焦的味道,每晚還得用西瓜皮冰敷,真是少有的經驗,老P一件穿了一年沒褪色的灰色T恤,經過一整天的曝曬,肩膀部分居然有刷白的效果,好烈的陽光。住在這種乾燥的國度,老化的速度應該很嚇人,塗再油的身體乳都不夠,皮就是乾癟癟的,不敢想像,經過這個夏天,我的皮可能比龜皮更堅韌了吧。

不過,這麼美的藍天,不出去,也是對不起自己,撐著點吧。

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觀光城到處都有可愛的紀念品,現在對這些東西已經絕緣了

老P對於格林童話有許多的童年回憶與想像,似乎每個故事都能來上一段,而我,能記住故事的名稱就不錯了。格林童話中,他最感興趣的就屬「不來梅樂隊」,有朝一日一定要去跟那四隻動物銅像拍個照,說是他小時候的夢想,現在既然都住在童話大道上了,就來圓這個夢吧。

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德國的郵務士

從大學站搭上電車到Kassel ICE車站約15分鐘,週六一大早,郵差們正準備出發送信去,德國郵差的裝扮很像「捆工」,黃色上衣、藍色短褲加運動鞋,在市區的推小車,在外圍住宅區的就推大車,大車就是一大車兩旁加掛兩小車。三名郵差從電車旁的總局出來,分別上了電車三節車廂的三個門,因為郵車實在太大,所有人都得閃避讓位,真想把這個有趣的畫面拍下來,不過,兩男一女長得凶神惡煞,還是不要輕舉妄動,他們分別在沿途的住宅區下車送信去。歐陸國家對待郵差都還蠻人性的,會配上動力輔助推車或人力小推車來推郵件,就屬英國的郵務士最辛苦,每天脊椎側灣的背著一只紅色的笨重側背袋,身體彎著一邊的邊走路邊送信,大熱天、下雨天、下雪天,風雨無阻的挨家挨戶送信,實在辛苦也沒效率,怎麼不學學人家用推車呢。

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市政廳的騎樓看大教堂

ICE

已經放棄了在DB網站上找尋便宜車票,根本是不可能的任務,只要是ICE隨便一程,附上BahnCard還是天價,到現在還找不到比German Pass更便宜的辦法,既使預購一個月後的,還是貴的有點不可思議,Kassel到Bremen一人來回€82.5,嚇到了吧,難怪 ICE列車上大多時間是空空的,誰負擔這種票價?我們的Pass一人一天€21,坐多遠都是這個價錢,真是划算吧。話說回來,ICE這麼頻繁的班次、這麼綿密的網絡,這樣高成本的經營,會賺錢嗎?

往Bremen的火車是兩列 ICE並掛,列車會在漢諾威(Hannover)分道揚鑣,千萬別上錯車廂,會跑到漢堡(Hamburg)去的。DB的標示系統清楚易懂,搭車前在車站大廳看清楚螢幕顯示,然後在月台上找到列車的一級、二級車廂位置圖,通常一級車廂會在月台的A區,B區是餐車,C、D、E區則是二級車廂。另外,車站裡、月台上都有黃色的出發時刻表與白色的抵達時刻表,按著24小時的序列,甚至還有每列車的月台標示,絕對清楚無誤,不像在英國搭火車,月台似乎隨著「天氣」改變,常常搞得大家一頭霧水。在這裡,不管大站小站,月台幾乎都是固定不變的,的確有一套,這麼大的網絡系統,能如此精確、也如此準點,在英國,可能再一個千禧年也辦不到吧。

在月台候車時,拿出隨身攜帶的德文小字典,對著顯示螢幕查,只是想多認識一些單字,一位熱心的德國人,以為我們看不懂螢幕上顯示列車將慢5分鐘的公告,好心的用英文跟我們解釋,很多人說德國人很酷呢?我們這幾天倒是遇到不少好心人。

德國的鄉間地景很綠,大片大片的田野,偶爾來個鮮豔小鎮點綴其間,風力電車是常見的地景之一,綠色能源是德國極力推廣的能源政策,跟浪漫的英國人完全不同,他們寧願要核能電廠,也不要這一座座白色巨大的風車,說這樣會壞了他們美麗的田園風光,兩個國家的邏輯與性格果然是南轅北轍,怎麼可能盎格魯薩克遜人是從這裡去的呢。

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最熱鬧的不來梅市集廣場

不來梅

不來梅,是德國的三個自治城市之一(另外二個是柏林與漢堡),與北邊65公里之外的不來梅港港市分離,靠著Weser河彼此相連。深水港的不來梅,1358年加入漢撒同盟(十四至十七世紀北歐商業都市之政治及商業同盟)之後,開始她繁榮的歷史,過去主要進口咖啡與羊毛,今天則是承載每年70萬輛汽車出口的貨運量。老城區的歷史建築與街道,讓她成為德國的13個歷史城鎮(Historic Highlights of Germany)之一,市集廣場上的市政廳與羅蘭雕像,也在2004年列入了 UNESCO名錄,當然也是童話大道的終點站,這些條件足以成就這個熱鬧的觀光城。

到了觀光大城,當然也要有遊大城的心理準備,在車站裡的遊客中心,問了很不情願的「i」姑娘,要了一張地圖,再問她櫃臺後方那些摺頁有提供嗎?臉色更臭的說要那一種,討價還價後,給了一份市政廳的簡介,一張規劃好的步道圖。奇怪,不是免費資訊嗎?幹嘛這麼小氣,旅行中,跟這些遊客中心千萬別客氣,敢開口,就會有很多東西出現。

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不來梅火車站

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趕豬人雕像

站前廣場正在舉辦活動,搭了好多臨時棚子與攤位,還有一座鮮紅的神社鳥居,車站離舊城不遠,週末的遊客不少,跟著人群走就對了。進入舊城前,會先跨越一條護城河,從地圖上看來,這條成鋸齒狀的護城河現在兩旁綠樹成蔭,還有一座巨型風車,很有荷蘭的味道,不知是何來由。

過了河,在老城區的入口,有一群吸引人的雕像,事後查了資料,這是Peter Lehmann的養豬人與群豬雕像,外加一條狗,很喜歡德國各城市的公共藝術,無論在國際大都會,或是在可愛的童話小鎮,總能在出奇不意的角落,擺上一尊很具幽默感的雕像,尤其在新舊的城市空間裡,這樣的對比,很吸引我。

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荷蘭花市

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"阿桑,這顆很漂亮啦!"

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歐洲夏天,市場、超市裡就會出現各種鮮豔的莓類

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蔬菜攤

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種類好多啊,真想買回Kassel

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交易非常熱絡

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也有藝品攤

到市集廣場前這一帶,是不來梅的購物區,大小百貨公司、各類商店與滿滿的逛街人潮,好不熱鬧,只是這類的流行服飾鞋類,對我起不了作用。週末來是對的,圍繞著教堂與市政廳周圍的市集廣場上,滿是鮮花、蔬果、香腸、起司、藝品等各色攤位,居民們提著菜籃(德國真的流行提菜籃,而且是設計精美的菜籃,到處都可以看到賣菜籃,因為超市不提供塑膠袋,菜籃用起來比手提袋方便,結帳後直接丟進菜籃裡非常快速,真想也提一個回家,還有折疊式的設計,方便收納),或推著小拉車,一攤接著一攤買,看到花販、菜販跟顧客親切的交易著,很真實的生活,大呼小叫的叫賣聲,讓市集變得熱鬧滾滾。

市集裡果然比超市裡的蔬果選擇多一些,不過,光是這裡超市的貨色,都比Kassel的選擇多很多,大城果然還是便利。這裡的蔬果比起英國的價格真是漂亮許多,不僅數字少了一點,而且是英鎊變歐元,玫瑰花一束€0.99,薰衣草盆花三盆€5,覆盆子一盤€1.4,蔬菜就更便宜,在Kassel被食物所困擾的我,也好想提個菜籃,加入買菜的行列。

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小朋友總是喜歡在噴泉裡玩水

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周邊太擠,無法拍到全貌,每個角落都很有趣

廣場上有個現代噴泉,給熱的快融化的我帶來一點涼意,噴泉由拿著三叉戟的人、吹著號角的人、美人魚、馬、魚等各種幽默的渾圓造型所組成,猜想是來自海神的意象,幻化成簡單的線條,四周被熱鬧的攤販圍繞著,如果旁邊清空了,映著藍天與教堂,一定是個好畫面。

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就是這四隻動物雕像,讓大朋友小朋友都瘋狂

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不來梅最熱們的紀念品就是這個了,各種千奇百怪的造型,還有諷刺版的、突變版的、顛倒版的,還有純金純銀的

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正面很細一條

不來梅規劃了一條觀光步道,將舊城裡的11個重要景點連成一氣,遊客跟著地上的金屬點點走就可飽覽舊城風光,只是這個銅質小圓點實在不明顯,常常讓我走丟了。第一站當然就是格林童話裡「不來梅樂隊」的四隻動物銅雕像(Bremen Town Musicians),驢子、狗、貓、與公雞,很不起眼的堆疊在市政廳與教堂之間的角落,總是圍繞著世界各地來的觀光客合照,一個接著一個,根本找不到空檔,大朋友、小朋友都對這個知名的童話故事有無限的想像吧。傳神的動物雕像,是1951年當地雕刻家Gerhard Marcks的作品,隨著一整天的光影變化,有各種取景的可能,我們早上拍了一次,傍晚要離開時,又去拍了一次。

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羅蘭騎士像,這樣也能列入UNESCO?

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市政廳與羅蘭像

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抗議團體

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羅蘭像與西側的山牆建築

不來梅的景點大概都圍繞著市集廣場,其中市政廳(Rathaus)與巨碩的羅蘭騎士雕像(Statue of Knight Roland)是世界文化遺產,10公尺高的羅蘭手持盾牌與寶劍,面對著大教堂的方向,立於1404年,象徵這個城市獨立自主,是德國境內許多類似雕像的原形;哥德式建築結構的市政廳,外面是「Weser」文藝復興式,建於1405到1410年之間,現在對於這類偉大建築的感想,有時候還不如一尊不知名的雕像來得更吸引我。

頂著熱浪在廣場上的我們,只想找個可以遮陰的角落,市政廳正對面的商人同業公會建築(Schütting)前的階梯,是個很好的位置,也是欣賞整個廣場的好角度,這是一棟1537年由比利時建築師設計的荷蘭文藝復興式建築,廣場西側的山牆式建築也棟棟精彩,似乎也都帶著荷蘭建築的影子,可能與漢撒同盟時的交流很有關係吧。

廣場上的不來梅議會(Haus der Bürgerschaft),是1960年代的現代玻璃帷幕建築,跟周邊大教堂與市政廳的古典風格有點格格不入,議會前正有一批支持巴勒斯坦、伊朗的抗議者,揮舞著切瓦拉的紅色旗幟,用麥克風與擴音器,放送著他們不滿的聲音,還穿插著許多即興的音樂演出,抗議布希到訪德國,可惜,這樣的活動總吸引不了太多人的注意,這個世界錦上添花的人多,對於弱勢卻總是冷漠。

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估量所正立面

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估量所上的天秤

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Böttcherstraβe入口處的金色浮雕

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玩偶店前也擺了這尊仿冒版的動物

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這很像我們的老街騎樓

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建築物中間的排鐘在每天的中午12店、下午3點、6點會定時響起

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巷子裡的磚造建築,很特別

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這是希爾頓大飯店的牆

商業公會建築旁的巷子裡,有棟極為精緻的山牆式建築,原為估量所(Stadtwaage),現在改為銀行使用,山牆上的金色天秤、招牌上的天秤與門把上的天秤,都極為精緻。
廣場上熱鬧的週末市集與精彩的建築,讓我們花了不少時間,意猶未盡的必須往其他區位移動。與廣場相連的狹窄街區「Böttcherstraβe」,長度約100公尺,1926年當地一位咖啡進口商將它改為「Art Deco」風格的巷弄,入口處一大面的金色淺浮雕,是一幅天使刺龍的故事,巷子裡有表現主義風格的建築,到處是用磚頭堆疊出來的圖騰,這裡有博物館、有貴得驚人的藝品店、有咖啡座、有賭場,巷底還有希爾頓大飯店的另一個入口,是條很商業的小巷。

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渡船口

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渡船口旁的雕像

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窄巷裡的風景值得探訪

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各色開給觀光客的藝品店

巷底有條地下道可通往Weser河邊的渡船口,正有從不來梅外港載客回來的渡輪,港邊的堤防上剛剛結束星期六的跳蚤市場,留下一堆髒亂的垃圾。沿著這條連通不來梅港的河岸邊走,來到另一個歷史街區「Schnoorviertel」,15-18世紀的狹窄街道與迷你房舍,一家接著一家的藝品店,很符合觀光客的需求,二次大戰前,這是不來梅最貧窮的一區,僥倖的逃過戰火,重新整頓之後,現在則是遊客走迷宮一樣的到處亂竄。

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感動我的牆上雕像

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還好有買到這隻龜

在一棵樹叢後方、一面不太起眼的白牆上,發現了一個讓人驚豔的藝術雕像,一名男孩與一隻貓,似乎在牆邊玩著追逐遊戲,下方則是個噴水池,如果不是這潺潺水流聲,還真不會注意到這個精緻的角落。巷弄中一家已經關門的櫥窗裡,發現了一隻一定要帶回家的石龜,造型與材質都好,正巧碰上開車回店裡拿東西的老闆娘,趕緊上前問她,可以賣給我這隻龜嗎?拜託!拜託!她熄了火、鎖了車門、把車子卡在小巷中,開了門賣我這隻龜。

小小的不來梅舊城區,也讓我們疲於奔命一大半天,精彩、充實的一天,是個讓人留有美好回憶的城市。

由 mrs.turtle 發表於 July 25, 2006 12:21 AM | 引用
迴響

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mk 發表於 October 11, 2018 01:49 PM

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ylq jake 發表於 October 21, 2017 12:42 PM

阿莫,
還好我們是外國人
可以買很經濟又很彈性的German Rail Pass
真的很划算
別怕別怕
我們一天一人只要21歐
天南地北坐到飽
而且非ICE不搭 哈哈

Stefanie,
我們好像你的先鋒部隊啊
現來幫你探探路 呵呵
先別太興奮
你們以後就可以自己來把德國給走一遍囉
這個國家還真是大啊
兩個月 根本不夠用哩
就算夠用
我的體力也不夠啊

ps.在台北車站迷路啊,這麼厲害...

maruko,
看到他的正面
也覺得好怪啊
這麼細一條
吃的啊
別擔心啦
旅行就幾天而已
香腸多吃幾種 應該還可以忍受吧
住久了 可能會瘋狂的...

fish,
希爾頓的這一面還不錯
正面臨大馬路的就醜了
不知道裡面長啥樣

這個市集的莓很便宜啊
不像超市裡的又醜又貴

usosally,
我也覺得老P的記憶力真的有誇張
什麼都記得起來
幾百年前的事也記得起來
連他相機的機身號碼他都記得起來
當初就是靠這個記憶力把失竊的相機找回來
超市裡的啤酒 寫著看不懂的德文
他竟然也可以一瓶都不買到重複的
要是我 一定不斷的重複買一樣的回來

那天的天空的確很奔放
當然偏光鏡的效果很讚啦
才能把白雲跳脫出來

不會啦
那隻特地買來又特地寄來的龜
真的粉可愛捏

Chinyi,
你會很失望嗎
我在現場倒是很興奮捏
哈哈

Steffi,
沒有買到的東西
總是最美
這些旅遊紀念品哪
還是看看就好嚕
這樣你就會覺得那裡很好很好
明信片是最經濟的回憶

Viola,
搭火車南來北往
看到麥田中豎立了一根又一根的風力發電機組
數量之多 真的很驚訝
還以為德國人都很支持呢
原來不然!?

Lydiamonkey,
那現在看過這個有趣的故事嗎

puresalad,

那磨得很光滑的表面
觸感很細緻喔

KEATSLI,
薏芢粉大概也救不了我的肌膚了啊
這裡紫外線之強悍
恐怖恐怖啊

乖乖工作吧
做完了 就可以放假囉

ALex,
那個鳥居 我猜是活動才放在這裡的
平常應該沒有才是
你看得還真是仔細哩
你說的藝品攤位前的鋪面
在這裡當然也是舊城區才會有
新的城市 大的城市 我看也是很少見吧
我們這兒就沒有啊
也是很粗糙的啦
還是老東西好啊

米蘇,
香腸我實在吃怕了啊>@
我覺得就是香腸不夠美味
才要擠芥末醬耶

turtle 發表於 July 28, 2006 08:35 PM

有沒有試試教堂邊的香腸BAR,亭子的那家?
冬天時來一份,配上獨門芥末醬,眼淚都要飆出來了!比英國冷三明治好吃太多,還有點大腸包小腸家鄉風格哩~~

米蘇 發表於 July 27, 2006 02:00 AM

不萊梅的車站前居然有鳥居...真好玩
然後..也有藝品攤的那張照片右下角的排水溝蓋跟週遭的鋪面配合的真好阿~~美國這邊, 要看到那種施工, 要在老的地方才有..新的鋪面施工有些都做得好差

再來...很喜歡巷子裡的奇特磚造建築前面的鑄鐵圍欄
最後...不萊梅感覺很贊呢~~下次去德國一定要把它列在一日遊行程中

ALex 發表於 July 26, 2006 11:01 PM

夫人:

我看完這篇之後,滿腦子大概是那四隻動物跟瘋狂想丟給送審書衝去玩的念頭。不過,要是我真的這樣做的話,大概會有老師想K我吧!因為我手上的書是他們下學期要用的課本~~(這個暑假都沒玩到,只能看著妳的BLOG過癮)至於防曬問題,需要我們這邊寄薏芢粉嗎?敷不到一個月應該可以白回來滴。不過,我嚴重懷疑夫人應該不需要吧!@@

KEATSLI 發表於 July 25, 2006 05:17 PM

小石龜的造型好有質感!有種優雅的感覺!

puresalad 發表於 July 25, 2006 04:16 PM

我竟然知道不來梅樂隊耶,哈哈!!
那些莓真的有點多得嚇人!!

Lydiamonkey 發表於 July 25, 2006 02:47 PM

德國現在有不少人在抗議風力發電, 他們所持的理由是, 破壞風景
可是我覺得, 能源和環保問題愈來愈嚴重, 破壞風景一點點又算得了什麼呢, 唉.

Viola 發表於 July 25, 2006 01:42 PM

Bremen是我很喜愛的德國城市^^
還好當時是窮學生
沒太多零用錢買紀念品
我記得我只買了明信片^^

看了照片好像再去德國啊!

台灣也熱到不行呢
雖然我頗注重防曬
但是手臂已經曬成兩種顏色了...嗚嗚..
還我白皙的皮膚...

Steffi 發表於 July 25, 2006 08:42 AM

哇~ 相機拿在你手上果然就不同
能把位於角落毫不起眼的動物們拍的這麼精彩
親臨現場的人可能有點小失望了

Chinyi 發表於 July 25, 2006 07:57 AM

對於p先生的記憶力也感到超級佩服呀,沒來念歷史系真是我們的一大損失,看到小巷裡觀光客尋寶的模樣,又覺得好懷念york起來了,不過你們的天空會不會太有魄力了一點,是廣角鏡的形變效果,還是那天的雲真的長得很有形呀!夫人有龜當買值須買呀,真的德國工藝跟我們小島的品質與美感落差太大呀!害我一直不敢去回龜倆好那篇,我知道心意最重要,不過還是見笑見笑

usosally 發表於 July 25, 2006 06:33 AM

DB車站的標示真的很清楚
我在德國火車站都不曾迷路過~
倒是回來自己的國家...
第一次去台北車站等提先生回來時
竟然完全看不懂要去哪個月台啦
可真是諷刺呀~~~ >"

上兩次去德國也有發現在當地買票根本不便宜(天價!)
所以外國人能購買 Rail Pass 真的很划算
坐長途更是賺到!!! (還能免費搭KD, 對觀光客真好~)

Stefanie 發表於 July 25, 2006 04:18 AM

真想住看看那種紅磚的希爾頓 特別
那個估量所怎麼有一點印度的味道?
滿坑滿谷的苺 光看就幸福

fish 發表於 July 25, 2006 03:56 AM

動物雕像從正面看過去,整個感覺都不一樣了呢
真的很想親眼去瞧瞧
不過...想到德國的吃,m.....怕怕

maruko 發表於 July 25, 2006 03:15 AM

妳回答我Willkommen吊牌在哪買的問題後
我就在等不來梅這篇了~~~ 呵!
這四隻疊起來的動物實在太吸引我想去造訪
經你們報導後更覺得以後非去不可!!!
有那麼多雕塑品可看也真是太過癮了~
(我也好喜歡他們的傳統市集, 我要當菜籃族!!!)

Stefanie 發表於 July 25, 2006 12:18 AM

哇~這是我很想去的地方ㄟ,到目前都還沒有機會去
看這幾隻疊在一起的動物,不過德國的火車票也太貴
了吧?!這樣玩很像很傷...

阿莫 發表於 July 24, 2006 11:49 PM
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