January 15, 2007

留在骨牌咖啡館的美好回憶

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旅途中,會對一個地方留下特別的印記,有好幾個關鍵因素,這個關鍵對於每個旅人或許不盡相同,之於我,一家有味道的書店、一本愛不釋手的畫冊或攝影集、一幅特別的畫、一間別緻的藝廊、一家溫馨的旅館、一個樸實無華卻充滿驚奇的角落、一系列別具巧思的城市家具、一群有品味的居民、或者只是一位熱情友善的當地人,不知為什麼,越小的感動、越在地的呈現,對我都能作用出最大的回憶,反而,愈大的名景、愈熱門的事物,都只是當下一時半刻的激情,旅行回來始終無法沈澱出什麼來。

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而其中,我發現,還有一個很重要的關鍵,那就是一杯香醇的咖啡、一塊美妙的蛋糕和一頓令人難以忘懷的風味餐點,這些也都能讓我深厚一個地方的回憶,食,果然還是最基本的訴求。

恰巧,位在德國黑森林周圍的弗萊堡,她剛剛好具備了這些個關鍵,整個城市堆滿的綠意、走來輕巧無負擔的街道、精心配置的街道拼圖、滿城流通的雨水回收小溝渠,再加上一家剛剛好讓我喜歡的咖啡館、一家讓我開懷暢飲又飽餐一頓的啤酒屋、一家親切好滋味的早餐店,該有的,這裡似乎一切都有了,因此,成了我德意志之旅回憶中,極鮮明的一個點。

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在弗萊堡的第一天早上,陰雨壓境,從山上遠眺下來之後,開始傾盆大雨,為了躲雨,找了家在街尾轉角的咖啡館,旅途中累積了一些成功與失敗的嘗試,現在對於什麼樣的店,進去會比較合我們的胃口,有一點點經驗了,這個胃口不僅是食物的口味,還要有室內設計的品味與侍者的服務態度,一家注重各種細節的店,相信有比較高的機率端出讓顧客滿意的食物,我指的空間氣氛並非那種新穎明亮的現代空間,在歐陸,這種店通常不要嘗試比較妥,最好是能帶點歲月的痕跡,如果能寫出類似"since 1789"這類的字眼,當然就更值得入內試試。

從街角望去,骨牌咖啡館二樓幾乎滿座,從窗外望進,清爽的室內空間,一看就對眼,馬上跟正在拍照的老P使了眼神,我進去了。

一座紅色的旋轉梯杵在店的正中央,從地下室一路轉到二樓,成了室內最搶眼的標的,一樓是吸煙區與吧台,侍者帶我們上二樓,選了個窗邊的位置坐下,卸下笨重的背包與相機,喘口氣,雨天雖也有雨天的美,但對於拍照的旅人來說,一手相機、一手雨傘,真的很累。

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點了咖啡之後,對於這些德文甜點有看沒有懂,只好跟著侍者到一樓看實物挑比較直接,不久,端來了一杯Wien Melange、一杯冰咖啡與那塊櫻桃口味的甜點,各先嚐了一口,果然是沒得挑剔的真材實料,然後一口接一口,滿足的結束這個躲雨的午后,話說,每家咖啡館都有專業的咖啡機,也都標榜某某咖啡豆,煮出來的咖啡還真的會因人而異,功夫紮實差很多。

食畢,環視咖啡館內,這才發現,名為骨牌咖啡館的室內,從桌子、椅子、牆上的掛鐘、點餐的菜單、放帳單的玻璃杯等等,都以骰子為設計元素,有意思吧。

有機會到弗萊堡一遊,別忘了也到骨牌喝一杯吧。

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喝完咖啡,天也晴了

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街上又恢復了熱鬧

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由 mrs.turtle 發表於 January 15, 2007 02:50 AM | 引用
迴響

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希望你不介意我引用你的文章,謝謝你!

Jan 發表於 December 1, 2007 03:49 PM

Catherine,
"樓梯"也是我特別會駐足觀賞的室內空間元素之一
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的確大膽
其實不大的空間
硬是擺了個超大型的迴旋梯
這在寸土寸金的台灣
恐怕很難實現
因為業主的目標"達到最大的輪轉率"

turtle 發表於 February 3, 2007 12:10 PM

一直以來, 我總是無法抗拒迴旋梯的別具魅力
從科比意的Villa Savoye到陳瑞憲的實木迴旋梯
原來, 褚紅鑄鐵迴旋梯也可以如此令人屏息

實木桌椅, 簡潔壁燈和石板路靜靜的邀請過路人駐足停留
何需誇飾的招牌或霓虹燈?

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我也很想在家裡的廁所前貼張這個
超可愛

Joyce,
聽起來很有趣的食物
不過我還真的沒聽過也沒看過
下次一定要試試看這滋味

turtle 發表於 January 23, 2007 10:49 AM

其實半月比薩就是calzone啦
不過裡頭包的是甜的喝酒喝得飽飽的酒釀葡萄乾和cheese
也可以不要包起來就像一般pizza那樣
不過我喜歡包起來的口感
一邊吃還會一邊流出甜甜的汁液
吮指回味ㄚ~~~
台中市存中街有在賣! ^0^

Joyce 發表於 January 21, 2007 12:18 PM

原來小人是這個意思啊!

說來慚愧,第一張照片下頭的那個小人連標誌,上次看的時候
居然沒看到,我還以為小人是鐵鑄的樓梯一部分呢XD

bwPingu 發表於 January 20, 2007 08:12 AM

ALex,
美國稱Main Street
應該就像英國稱的High Street吧

這樣說來
倫敦可能是這些大城裡比較老舊的
幾乎整個城都是古老街區
除了金融區有些高樓之外
不過
在歐洲像法蘭克福這樣的城市還真是少之又少
太誇張了

turtle 發表於 January 18, 2007 02:11 PM

夫人:
大都市其實也是從Main Street起身的
所以仍然保有古老的建築...尤其是東岸的大都市
現代化的地區大多在大都市的市中心, 其週邊還是有老街
像費城跟DC雖然是大都市...但仍然有許多古老的街區保留
亞特蘭大也是新舊交接, 其實像倫敦跟法蘭克福或是巴塞隆納也是有老區阿..只是尺度跟小鎮不同
美國東岸的小鎮有些仍然保有早期建築跟聚落的風格, 比起suburb爆炸之後的郊區感覺要好許多..雖然都市跟小鎮都有古老的東西
我還是比較喜歡小鎮(或是大都市中某個小區neighborhood)那種溫馨的感覺

ALex 發表於 January 16, 2007 07:35 PM

Someone,
Wish your "wish" will come true in the near future.

Stefanie,
哈哈哈
如果這咖啡館能結合藝廊再結合主題書店
相信很讚吧
不過
會不會只有我們自己欣賞啊
因為完全沒有考慮到"市場"
這真的是要有"閒錢"來耗的時候
才能實現的夢想啊

turtle 發表於 January 16, 2007 12:53 PM

哈囉!夫人股東 ← 哈哈哈 XD
感謝妳沒有戳破我的夢幻泡泡
看來這"美好回憶咖啡館"未來一定會開成囉~
而且 當然當然是要借重兩位歐洲咖啡館達人的很多 idea 啦
~我也興奮期待中~

Stefanie 發表於 January 16, 2007 11:20 AM

What a unique cafe!
I wish I could spend a lazy afternoon there
with that special person in my life.

Someone 發表於 January 16, 2007 03:42 AM

doublejane,
"樓梯"對我有無窮的魅力
不管什麼型式的樓梯
我都愛喔

馬克思,
不用不好意思啦
你的相機不會太大隻
應該還OK吧
我的日本朋友也拍了很多日本風味的咖啡館
快點多拍一些給我們瞧瞧吧
就請給它開在P模式
直接按下去就行了
先別管他光圈快門了
拍出氣氛就行了

fish,
感謝誇獎
說到糖
喝咖啡加的糖
真的要講究
不然真的會影響咖啡原味的
這裡很幸福
可以買到各種各樣的糖

Joyce,
哇哇
也買了新相機啊
多多拍吧
記錄生活
也是一種不錯的累積
隔一段時間來看
不管照片好與壞
都是自己的紀錄
蠻好低
酒釀半月比薩?
都聽名字就很奇特
快點介紹一下吧

bwPingu,
是啊
那對小人兒真的很有味道
在這裡
常常可見到WC用這麼可愛的指示
如廁都是一種視覺享受哩

在歐陸
要找到禁煙的咖啡館
真的有難的
因為咖啡館禁煙就失去了她的"味道"吧

KEATSLI,
下回貼貼別家的小人兒

白花花,
果然看得跟我不一樣
竟然看到那對阿公阿婆了
哈哈哈
還沒到啦

ALex,
嗯嗯
我想美國更應該跑小地方吧
大都市是不是幾乎都很現代?

愛丁堡卜媽,
不知道愛丁堡有沒有什麼特別的咖啡館呢
英國好像都要找"tea room"~

Stefanie,
太好囉
我一定去捧場
如果到時候需要有人"投資"
算我一份吧
光用想像的就有很多idea啊~興奮中~

turtle 發表於 January 16, 2007 01:30 AM

看完後......想到...... (頭上迸出夢幻的泡泡)
未來如果有"閒錢"時
一定也要開一間能讓人留下美好回憶的咖啡館!(兼小畫廊好了)
到時歡迎大家來坐坐~

Stefanie 發表於 January 15, 2007 11:58 PM

好特別的咖啡館哦!
我最喜歡的是那照型現代,材質卻很古典的桌椅.
好想坐在哪發呆ㄋ~^^

愛丁堡卜媽 發表於 January 15, 2007 11:08 PM

恩恩...我也是比較喜歡那種突來的驚喜或是小地方的感動
所以在美國這邊也喜歡跑小鎮

至於since 1xxx這種店招牌應該是種口碑吧
我去一個地方旅行也會因為咖啡館或是糕餅店有這種招牌
雖然不餓或不渴..也會特地跑進去買個小東西晃晃:P
需要休息時當然就更不用說啦~~~

ALex 發表於 January 15, 2007 08:12 PM

用心的咖啡店
用心的P&T
賞心悅目 嘆為觀止

雨後的巷弄 神清氣爽
咖啡座上的客人 很像臨時演員ㄟ
那對阿公 阿婆 好帥氣哦
我要向那位阿婆看齊

白花花 發表於 January 15, 2007 02:13 PM

夫人

我喜歡樓梯上有一對小人兒的身影,好q喔!

KEATSLI 發表於 January 15, 2007 01:10 PM

方糖再加一票!

第一張照片樓梯上的小小情侶剪影真是意外的驚喜^__^

"越小的感動、越在地的呈現,對我都能作用出最大的回憶"
非常同意夫人的說法!

煙味如果會往上飄的話,吸煙區應該設在二樓才對。
我很怕菸味,還是喜歡禁煙的餐廳^^~

bwPingu 發表於 January 15, 2007 12:04 PM

好一陣子沒上來
買了新相機
拍來拍去都還是沒有很藝術的味道
還是來看你們的比較實在~ ^_^

我很同意turtle說的
越小.越在地的小是越能留下深刻印象
我想這也就是為什麼現在大家越來越熱衷自助旅行的原因吧
因為很東西都會是那旅行中獨有的
(至少 是跟團的人一定沒有的!)

說到那咖啡
讓我想到前幾天我突然很想去吃的一道甜點
酒釀半月比薩
一家店只要有一項別人沒有 或會讓人"思想起"的東西其實就很夠了~~~
這"思想起"讓我帶著腸胃炎未痊癒的身體硬是向她前進
雖然不能吃多
還是覺得好好ㄔㄛ
^O^
下次你們回國介紹你們去吧!

Joyce 發表於 January 15, 2007 07:17 AM

這篇寫得極有味道

那杯方糖也擺得很有味道

fish 發表於 January 15, 2007 05:08 AM

好漂亮的照片喔
寫咖啡寫那麼好喔

ㄚ我要努力點才行
這裡有很多的咖啡店與蛋糕店
不過 每次拿相機拍都好像有點不好意思

還有喔 要照咖啡杯或是蛋糕喔 通常光圈要大還要小啊
應該我不知道技巧啦

有空偷偷告訴我喔 哈
祝生活快樂

馬克思 發表於 January 15, 2007 04:12 AM

很有意思的樓梯
如果灰姑娘的閣樓
也是迴旋的話...

我喜歡裡面的桌椅
可以依照人數拼湊

doublejane 發表於 January 15, 2007 12:59 AM
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