January 24, 2007

就從Risotto的故事說起

21010713.JPG
如果能有這款鍋,相信可以煮出更美味的燉飯來......做白日夢中

......或許我們都太不擅長說故事,尤其是食物的故事,也很少聽到這類關於食物的故事流傳下來,我們的飲食文化,似乎消失在很多只講究裝潢、耍噱頭的年輕世代餐廳裡......

一個國家的飲食文化,該怎麼被型塑,該怎麼被描繪,或者簡單的說,該怎麼被拿來說故事,對於該飲食文化的發揚有極大的影響。

英國常被非議為沒有美食的國家,其實不然,英國各地都有美味的傳統料理,只要食材選得好,只要用心遵循老奶奶的百年食譜,絕對也能烹煮出不是只有Fish & Chips的英國美食,關於英國飲食的故事書,說不定也不會少於法式料理。

大家都熟悉的日本料理,也常在料理達人與各類食材達人的堅持下,一根簡單的蔥,一顆簡單的大豆,一瓢簡單的海鹽,都能有好多故事來神話它,只要以最簡單的方式烹煮,依舊能帶出食物最精華的美味。

全世界都橫行的義式料理,看著食譜裡一道道美味的料理,其實烹煮方式都不特別複雜,以同樣的準則,加入各種不同配料,就能有千百種的變化,也因為這樣,義式料理的被接受度很高,就連遠在東亞的台灣,城市裡滿是義式風味的餐廳,就只是食物好吃又簡單烹煮嗎?我想其中還有一點,說不定跟義大利人很會說故事有關。

隨便翻開義式料理的書籍,內容不管是食譜、旅行文學、飲食文化等等,每一道菜色,他們總能說出一長串跟爺爺、奶奶、叔叔、阿姨、爸爸、媽媽,一大家子人在廚房裡的故事來,一粒米的歷史、一塊起司的典故、一碟Pasta的由來,樣樣細節都描繪得出神入化,其實,說穿了,真的沒什麼大不了!?對於吃米民族的「我們」而言,卻很少看到這樣對「米」大書特書,然而就是這樣,食物背後的故事,對於飲食者而言,想著自己正吃下那一口口多麼偉大的料理與背後所隱含的故事,實有著一股莫大的催眠作用。

再來看看我們自己,台灣的美食不多嗎?難道就沒有屬於我們自己的飲食文化?在國外,中式餐館清一色廣東料理,說得具體一點是港式料理,Chinese take away更慘,連M&S的東方微波食物都不如,每次想著外國人真的很可憐,上館子吃的這些菜色,只是用有限的食材去交叉分配,真怕他們誤以為那就是所謂中式料理的全部,難怪他們上中國餐館還是點薯條。

或許我們都太不擅長說故事,尤其是食物的故事,也很少聽到這類關於食物的故事流傳下來,我們的飲食文化,似乎消失在很多只講究裝潢、耍噱頭的年輕世代餐廳裡,我承認飲食氣氛真的很重要,但如果只有氣氛,我寧願不要。

相較於現代餐廳裡的各國美食,屬於我們自己的常民食物,可能就更難引起關注了。一顆肉圓,北部用炸的,南部用蒸的,一顆肉粽,北部蒸煮的,南部水煮的,一碗碗粿,中部是白色的,南部是混著配料的,鹿港的軟牛舌餅與宜蘭的脆牛舌餅,南部的春捲包大麵等等差異,蔴苡湯、虱目魚粥、蚵仔麵線、臭豆腐、大麵羹、米台目、鱔魚麵、芋粿、菜頭粿、筒仔米糕、紅龜粿、肉羹、蚵仔煎、鹹蛋糕、太陽餅、綠豆碰、肉乾、肉鬆……太多太多,列都列不完,每一種都有值得被述說的故事、歷史、演進,以及不同的烹煮方式,只是,誰來說這樣的故事呢?誰來有系統的整理這些故事呢?電視節目裡、美食書籍裡多的是義式料理的故事、日本達人的故事、英國老奶奶的故事,所謂外來的和尚會念經,就像大家可能都對如何煮出一杯好咖啡、一杯好紅茶、一碗日式抹茶的步驟如數家珍,卻對於泡出一泡好的台灣茶,一點點概念都沒有。

希望有一天我們的美食節目,能進化到不只停留在美鳳有約這類型的,一位美麗的歐巴桑,很沒有感情的就著一碗食物,隨便嚐一口,然後假假的說「喔!那ㄝ價喝價。」我們的美食文化不該只有這樣。

舉個義大利燉飯(Risotto)來說吧,看看人家是怎麼說一道菜的故事。

義大利人非常重視家庭觀念,主廚在料理一開始,就會從「小時候跟著奶奶在廚房裡忙,她會教我們什麼樣才是一道正確的燉飯,那就是在煮好的燉飯裡,插上一根叉子,如果叉子倒了,那就不能說是一碗好的燉飯……。」這樣的情境開始描繪,讓你開始幻想自己也能煮出一道有阿嬤味道的義式燉飯來。

傳統上,義大利北方的省分吃米,南方的省分吃麵食,二次大戰之後,人民生活漸漸改善,食物也多方流傳開來,米到了南邊,麵食則到了北邊,義大利也開始耕作不同品種的米,麵食也開始變化出各種造型,每個地方漸漸創作出各種多元的食譜,每個城市、每個鄉村、甚至每個家裡,同一道菜,做出來的口味都不盡相同。

威尼斯的all’onda也是Risotto的一種,因為此地傳統食譜中,使用魚、海鮮等較多,比較多易碎的食材,因此這裡的燉飯比較鬆軟,燉飯傾斜一邊時,會產生出滑動的波紋,讓人聯想到海浪之意。

Risotto來自倫巴底省,這個字本身就是來自倫巴底的方言,而倫巴底首府米蘭的Milanese Risotto也是非嚐不可,聽說通常要和一道燉小牛肉(Ossobuco alla milanese)一起品嚐。似乎出現了前往米蘭的動機了。

身為倫敦Savoy主廚的義大利師傅說,義大利人吃米飯,大概指的就是這道Risotto,頂多加入沙拉或湯裡,他從未見到將米放入甜點中,直到他來到英格蘭,第一次在Savoy嚐到了Rice Pudding,非常驚訝也覺得奇怪,但習慣了它的味道之後,竟會喜歡上。(的確,我還沒有嚐試過這款甜品,光聽名字就很詭異,下次真的要來試試看。)

要煮好燉飯最關鍵的就是要有一鍋好的「高湯」,主廚建議,可以將熬好的高湯,製成冰塊,放在冷凍庫,需要時就加一塊,聽起來似乎很方便。

21010712.JPG
這是等玫瑰賣的義大利米包裝,剛好有三種米的圖說

關於米的故事。

漂亮的燉飯就是要把米粒煮成像珍珠般,金黃色、有光澤、黏稠狀,但每顆米粒又要能分開來,而且咬起來需有彈性,真的不簡單。

義大利以前米的種類不多時,Arborio米是最主要的選擇,現在主要有三種,每一種米都有它的特性與黏性,要用不同的方式烹煮,因此選擇正確的米很重要:
Arborio:是義大利人最常用的種類,適合用在濃稠的燉飯,比較容易爛。
Carnaroil:比較細長,義大利現在公認最好的米,價格也最高,內外的澱粉層與澱粉醣比較均勻,煮出來很漂亮,比較不易爛,常用在簡單口味的燉飯上,如不用加太多配料的saffron risotto或是最後才加入材料的seafood risotto上。
Vialone nano:比較圓,很會吸水,會成半透明的外表,適合搭配比較硬的食材。

關於烹煮燉飯的基本步驟:

1.準備一鍋高湯。
2.基底,不管選擇什麼材料,如果在這個步驟就要加入的,要能耐20分鐘的高溫烹煮。
3.加入米粒均勻攪拌,接著加入一杯酒,待它完全蒸發,才開始加入高湯。
4.高湯要一瓢一瓢慢慢加,等一瓢的水分完全吸收之後,再加入另一瓢,讓熱度均勻擴散,也讓米粒的外層澱粉溶解,但不能攪爛它。基本上高湯與米的比例是500ml:100g。
5.在進行到三分之二的時間,開始加入配料,因為這樣比較能保留食材的原味。
6.待米粒變軟之後,關火,靜置1分鐘,讓溫度稍微降下來。
7.最後,加入奶油或起司即可。

這道菜適合快快吃完,冷了就失去風味,不能煮太少量,像是一人份,因為米吸收水分太快,也不能煮多,容易攪拌不均勻,8-10人是極限。
義式燉飯的配料隨意,當令的食材,或者家裡冰箱裡有什麼就加什麼,因此燉飯過去被視為粗食,因為使用比較便宜的材料,現在當然是餐廳裡的名菜。

關於Cheese:

義大利最常見的cheese有兩種,一種是世界知名的Parmesan,一種則是銷售量最大的Grana Padano,不同的菜色選用不同的cheese。

Parmesan(Parmigiano Reggiano):來自義大利北邊的cheese,有「The King of Italian cheese」的封號,口味比較鹹。這也是世界上尺寸最大的cheese,每一輪超過30公斤,因為它很適合運送,直接用滾的也不怕摔壞。每一輪cheese都有自己的ID識別,印在cheese外皮上,詳細記載各種出廠記錄。

Reggio Emilia是Parmesan Cheese最好的產區,一般的等級至少也要經過12個月的製程,頂級的Parmesan Cheese則要24個月以上,可以放3-4年,義大利鄉間人家,可能一次買個6輪,即可嘗試不同年份的cheese,特別的宴客場合會切下中間最精華部位來品嚐。

Parmesan Cheese已經聞名了800-900年,在17世紀時義大利的Parma女爵嫁給了法王路易十六的孫子,也將這個cheese帶到了法國。此外,在義大利有個有趣的說法,婦女懷孕的後幾個月,要多吃這種cheese,會讓奶水更有味道,寶寶會更愛。但是在英國要吃到這種頂級Cheese有些困難,因為主廚說,在倫敦幾乎買不到這種年份夠久的cheese,因為實在貴到不像話。

另外一種Grana Padano是1000年前就有的cheese,歷史比Parmesan Cheese更久,當初是西多教會的僧侶發明,質地比較軟比較濕,也比較甜。

看了這些敘述,是不是讓你也很想自己下廚來煮一道Risotto,到超市比較一下各種米的不同,在廚房體驗一下什麼叫做高湯一瓢一瓢慢慢加的經驗,我就這樣忍不住,選了一道最簡單的「甜椒燉飯」來嘗試看看。

21010705.JPG

材料:
高湯 1.5 litres
橄欖油 4湯匙
洋蔥 1顆,切碎備用
蕃茄 3顆,去皮去籽切塊
甜椒 3顆,切塊備用
迷迭香1支,切碎
義大利米 350g
Parmesan Cheese 4湯匙,最好是現刨的才香
鮮蝦數尾(因為覺得只有甜椒,好像太清教徒了,就丟了幾尾蝦)

21010704.JPG
快要熟了~~

作法:
1.懶得熬高湯,只好用蔬菜高湯塊來替代(這是不良示範,主廚說高湯是燉飯的精髓),在火爐邊準備一鍋熱的高湯
2.同時熱另一個油鍋,加入洋蔥拌炒,用小火炒5分鐘
3.接著加入蕃茄、甜椒、迷迭香,再炒5分鐘
4.加入米,均勻的攪拌
5.然後,高湯一匙一匙加,吸收完一匙,再加另一匙,一直重複這個動作,約20分鐘,米粒就會變軟(快熟的時候才丟入蝦子)
6.最後,加入cheese,均勻攪拌
7.大功告成,記得將碗盤溫熱,避免盛起來很快就涼了

21010701.JPG
成品

因為,煮了一道素的飯,決定追加一道葷的肉,那就選這個季節最好吃的羊肉來搭配,煮一道「義式羊腿燉蕪菁」

羊肉也是學問多多,羊肉分成三種:
Mutton:珍貴的、有味道的、深紅色肉質的羊肉,指2歲以上的羊隻。
Hoggest:1-2歲之間的羊。
Lamb:1歲以下的羊,只喝母奶長大,肉質嫩,比較淺色,多油脂,每年10月到隔年6月之間食用最佳。

在歐洲,英國與愛爾蘭是羊肉最好的產地,紐西蘭則是全世界最大的產地。只是很諷刺,在Waitrose發現,一盒盒肉質漂亮的羊肉,全數來自紐西蘭,只有角落擺了幾盒來自威爾斯的羊肉,價格大概是從紐西蘭坐飛機來的兩倍,真是奇怪吧,自家產的永遠比較貴,這就是英國,而紐西蘭的腿肉,去骨的約是帶骨的兩倍價,當然要買帶骨的。

21010710.JPG

材料:
羊腿肉 1kg(食譜上用的是mutton,因為買不到,只好用lamb替代。)
麵粉 2湯匙
洋蔥 2顆
大蒜 1瓣
迷迭香(rosemary) 1支
百里香(thyme)1支
芹菜 1支
高湯或水 500ml
奶油 25g
蕪菁(turnip)1kg

胡椒

作法:(看圖說故事)

1.將羊腿肉用繩子綁起來(這個在英國就不用擔心,超市都幫你綁好了)
21010709.JPG

2.不用倒油,直接熱鍋煎羊腿(如果你有很好的鍋子,是可以這樣做,但我沒有,所以還是抹點油比較保險),很豪邁的把整塊煎到表面有點焦
3.然後,均勻的灑上麵粉
4.丟入洋蔥、大蒜、迷迭香、百里香、芹菜
5.倒入150ml的高湯,用文火慢燉
21010708.JPG

6.同時,起另一個油鍋融化奶油
7.加入蕪菁,翻炒到金黃焦黑
21010707.JPG

8.將蕪菁加入肉鍋,加鹽與胡椒
21010706.JPG

9.加蓋,文火燉煮1.5小時,中途不斷將剩餘的高湯倒入
21010703.JPG

10.最後,解開綁繩,切片,裝入溫熱過的盤子裡,上菜!
21010702.JPG

由 mrs.turtle 發表於 January 24, 2007 02:56 AM | 引用
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chenyan 發表於 July 29, 2016 08:41 AM

圖片還有嗎?謝謝!

sepp 發表於 April 16, 2011 10:27 AM

birgit,
(不好意思,怎麼沒回到這則啊?)
這幾年在國外最大的發現就是
他們很會保存東西、很會說故事
老實說我們的很多東西、很多景物
也不比他們遜色
甚至更好也很有特色
就是不會包裝不會行銷
所以根本沒人看見呀~好可惜

sous chef,
哈~我真的沒有什麼特別的廚具
如果有的話早就在照片裡亮相啦~
不過在這裡怎麼就是覺得廚具很重要
所謂工欲善其是比先利其器
就是這個道理
烹煮很多西式料理
沒有那些機司頭
還真的弄不出來啊~
所以我都挑簡單的弄啦

mrs.turtle 發表於 August 6, 2009 01:47 PM

risotto .orzo pasta. 煮法可以相同.
但口味確有大大的差別.那燉飯作的真是極緻.美味極了.

那燉羊腿也是一絶.在家裡要弄出這麼幾道料理.
沒有粉清析的頭腦是沒辦法作好的.
佩服您有這樣的思路及時間.作料理的用心可以看的到.
最重要的.還沒看過您的廚具.希望有機會可以見識見識.

sous chef 發表於 August 2, 2009 12:49 PM

雖然剛吃過中飯,可是看到這些圖,怎麼覺得我還可以再多吃一點?>\\\\
德朵夫人拍的照片真不是普通的美,太專業啦,讓我好生慚愧,以後我要常來這裡挖寶.^0^
故事性真的是行銷很重要的一環,我買東西常常是因為聽到一個不錯的故事就買了,如果台灣小吃也能用這樣的方式包裝,就會有更多像"度小月"肉燥這樣的知名品牌出來了吧?
謝謝分享,我擦口水去暸~

birgit 發表於 May 1, 2007 05:30 AM

愛丁堡卜媽,
真是太羨慕妳囉~
用這種鍋燉菜
感覺就很爽吧
我只能去百貨公司摸一摸啦
第一太貴啦~~
第二這麼重我怎麼帶回台灣哪
是不是
繼續羨慕妳好了

ALex,
美國的食物
也是民族大熔爐啊
把別人的拿來發揚光大也是一種
奇怪
我想到美國
就會想到pan cake
因為美國電影裡常這樣演
肚子餓 就來搞塊pan cake
我也很喜歡吃這個東西啊

小蟹子,
哈哈~您客氣囉~
有空歡迎常來
我會盡量多灌一點東西進來的

turtle 發表於 February 18, 2007 04:59 PM

夫人您這裡的真是寶庫啊!!

找什麼吃的喝的玩的,這樣都有資料呢!!
這篇更是經典呢!!
謝謝你!

小蟹子 發表於 February 10, 2007 09:03 AM

美式食物喔...其實真的是各地方料理變形...像是南邊的Grits(玉米中心那個東西一堆煮成的糊), Bar-B-Q(各地方有不同的塗料)都是從印地安人跟中南美洲的食物轉變的. 然後像Pitza..紐約的Pitza(脆薄)跟芝加哥的Deep Dish也不一樣(連做法都不太一樣). Tamali是印地安人的粽子(真的超像粽子的, 南美洲也有)
再來根據電視上的說法, Macaroni and Cheese是一想到美國就會想到的食物...但是維碁百科卻說那個跟英國的cauliflower cheese很像..然後Pound Cake(因為材料各一磅而得名)是一想到美國南方就會想到的蛋糕(超甜又超肥)...也是英國Fruit Cake的變化. 其他像Phily Cheese Stake, 油炸綠番茄等等(上面這些是我想到比較特別的)...其實很多都是從歐洲, 中南美, 原住民跟亞洲食物變化而成的..但是因為老美比較會說故事, 所以給他一個twist+故事..就變成美式啦..維碁裡面寫得蠻清楚的...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cuisine_of_the_United_States

ALex 發表於 January 29, 2007 03:55 AM

那個鍋子...粉重!! ^^II因為它整個是用CAST IRON鑄成的.
不過我從來沒用它來做過燉飯,倒是常常拿來做燉菜,
比方說夫人的這道菜,我就會將它煮滾之後,蓋上鍋蓋,留一小細縫,
放入烤箱裡讓它慢燉個兩小時,通常這樣汁會收的很漂亮,肉也會很軟嫩,表皮更會有像慢烤的顏色跟質感哦~*_^

我覺得,喜歡料理的話,這種鍋滿值得投資的啦! 畢竟這種鍋在歐洲買比在台灣便宜很多了.^^

愛丁堡卜媽 發表於 January 28, 2007 09:21 AM

Euphtw,
的確
不只食物
有很多好東西
我們都只會放在家裡給自己人看
不懂得怎麼把它拿來介紹給外人看
就像我們的食物好吃
自己人當然不用多說
但是怎麼吸引外人就很難了呀

lion,
廚藝的確就像是個偉大的藝術
大廚們要變換出一道好的菜色
真的是不簡單
色香味都要齊全
而且要很有耐心
真的是高難度啊
繼續努力中
希望能多多記錄一些這裡的美食
也期待回台灣紀錄我們的美食

nana,
煮東西的確要有觀眾捧場
煮給小孩吃應該很有成就感吧
食譜書???
我還差遠囉~~

fish,
因為庫庫掃不能專心工作
只好做些有的沒的
這個就是其中一件事
甜椒蝦燉飯很簡單啦
自己煮一鍋

TSAI MALI,
哈哈
我們在吃的時候
也討論過這個問題
好像也可以說他是"義式鹹粥"
只是多加了cheese
不過呢
煮法不太一樣
我們的鹹粥是一大鍋慢慢熬
這個呢是要一瓢一瓢水慢慢加
這樣煮出來的米的確口感完全不一樣
正確的廣東粥作法我就不清楚
因為我也是把它比照台灣的鹹粥煮法
所以只有材料的差別

還有另一種粥
金門的廣東粥
也是我的最愛
這個就特別囉
不知道怎麼煮

ALex,
我很好奇
什麼是美國食物
他好像是個全世界美食的大熔爐
不知道有什麼特別之處
有沒有吃過什麼特別的呢

Stefanie,
你們那位阿海老師的西班牙海鮮飯
真是讓我看得很難過呀
我也煮過兩回
但是英國買不到這樣鮮美肥厚又澎派的海鮮
味道可行
但是視覺享受就差很多呀

KEATSLI ,
食家列傳應該是中國宮廷宴的菜色
跟我說的台灣美食
完全不同的系統
不知道有沒有台灣味的相關書籍呢
好想看看呀

usosally,
不不不
我是用愛與誠信推薦給大家
哈哈哈
食物的確不好拍
一直在嘗試
但是總覺得拍不出心中的感覺來
繼續努力中

Misa,
哈哈
謝謝誇獎
也歡迎繼續來捧場

蘇菲,
從現在開始練習
到了是老奶奶的時候
就會有好幾本食譜了呀
是不是呢
我也要多多努力

Aline,
啊~姑娘您是在燉飯的故鄉
不好意思我在這裡瞎說
在當地
應該聽過很多燉飯的故事吧
有機會分享一下囉

Amanda,
好的
那我來個"德朵每週一菜"主題好了
哈哈

doublejane,
其實
味道更好呦
因為燉羊腿沒什麼顏色呀

kaya,
那表示妳廚藝很精讚呀
可以不用照食譜
就能掌控
這樣才厲害啦
大廚也都是這樣隨意加的呀
好想吃你的泰國料理啊

愛丁堡卜媽,
挖~~好羨慕啊
居然有這種鍋
實際用起來好用嗎

請繼續你的英國美食記錄喔

alison,
那真的不是特意排的啦
因為羊腿一大陀
然後鍋子是圓的
東西丟下去
他們自然就會分散在四周圍
怎麼可能大火快炒的當下
還有閒工夫去排美美的呀
食材就真的有排一下~嘻


turtle 發表於 January 27, 2007 06:16 PM

太佩服啦!
怎麼有辦法煮東西這麼有條理!
連在鍋裡頭都是整齊的排好!

*深深一鞠躬*

alison 發表於 January 26, 2007 11:24 AM

對啦~沒想到我們興趣一同^_^.
我在網誌裡有一個"食在英國"單元,就是要追溯英國名菜的起源與故事,一洗英國是"惡食之都"的罪名,歡迎你來指教哦~*_^

愛丁堡卜媽 發表於 January 25, 2007 10:49 PM

夫人上面那個鍋,我正好有,而且連顏色都依樣ㄋ~^^II

愛丁堡卜媽 發表於 January 25, 2007 10:44 PM

哇~~看起來真的好好吃哦!
德朵真的做什麼事都很用心說,連煮東西也是,
不像我每次煮什麼都差不多就好,份量憑感覺,食材也看心情,就算手邊有食譜,也是大概看一下放了什麼,煮的時侯分量還是很隨時 ^^"
難怪我媽老是念我…"你這樣不是每次煮出來的味道都不一樣?"

除了很棒的介紹,照片真的很讚哦! 每一步驟的擺盤、取景都很用心,比很多食譜的質感還好,讚!!

kaya 發表於 January 25, 2007 09:48 AM

大飽眼福!

doublejane 發表於 January 25, 2007 06:25 AM

親愛的德朵夫人跟老P:

我是今天去你家猛拍德朵本尊的潤華,
先來跟你們拜個碼頭!

我要讓你家turtle到我家去繞一圈,
先跟你們報備一下
我家住址: http://www.wretch.cc/blog/mizu
謝謝你們!

junhua 發表於 January 24, 2007 10:05 PM

真是太棒ㄌ
夫人可以多刊一些
相關資訊
又可增長知識
又可增加飯桌菜色變化

Amanda 發表於 January 24, 2007 10:02 PM

看了妳的照片 讓我今天想來試試risotto燉飯 ^__^
妳的照片拍的很好呢

ps 我是從五色鳥的站連結來的

Aline 發表於 January 24, 2007 01:36 PM

我家有幾本食譜
邊看文章邊想了一下內容
真的完全沒有故事
如果有故事...真的會讓人想邊看邊學著做呢!
記得看過鄭華娟的書
內容說德國的老奶奶留下來的食譜
都是老奶奶親手記錄下來的
如果在台灣的女孩出嫁時
得到一本老奶奶組傳的食譜
感覺...好幸福喔!!
也許~我先來當那個未來的老奶奶也不錯
不過~我真的不太會煮:p

蘇菲 發表於 January 24, 2007 08:59 AM

哇 ! 逛到夫人的 blog總會分享到有質感, 美感及拍出活潑且與眾不同又有內容的各種事物, 又很用心的在敘述,真是咱們大家的福氣! 謝謝妳ㄜ~ 夫人

Misa 發表於 January 24, 2007 08:40 AM

不得了了
不只是文字敘述要讓人流口水而已
這個食材的拍攝手法已經比很多高檔食譜還要棒了耶
一直覺得靜物拍攝很有難度就像國中時對著美術課的寫生對象總是無奈一樣
夫人你是像日本人一樣
把你對食物的“愛”都拍進去了哦

usosally 發表於 January 24, 2007 07:49 AM

夫人:

看到您這篇網文壓根兒是重現看South Wind Through the Kitchen: the Best of Elizabeth David的食物遐想啊!
這幾年,還是有幾本書的出版約略重現中國飲食文化的精髓。像朱振藩老師就寫有食家列傳(他的書都再再寫出中國飲食文化,一道食物一席酒宴背後的故事如數家珍,令人垂涎),袁眉的隨園食單也是中國飲食書的一絕啊!

不知道是不是中國人內斂,記得在老家的廚房裡是不能問,只能用眼睛偷學的,因為爺爺說:人烹飪出來的食物,無形之中會帶有他的個性,但有些味道是會被記憶傳承下來的,不用特地學,可得要有心去體會。

KEATSLI 發表於 January 24, 2007 05:48 AM

忘了說..說到Risotto...真的跟台灣的鹹稀飯很像..雖然有cheese...
我有一次煮了我媽常煮的鹹稀飯(用雞湯加高麗菜有的沒的, 煮起來湯汁不多, 我是加雞肉..因為我不喜歡五花肉)結果美國同學以為我煮了Risotto忘了加cheese.....@_@

ALex 發表於 January 24, 2007 04:26 AM

阿莫回台後想"眼睛"繼續吃美食就都要來"雪菲爾幫"這幾台看了 :P

前幾天正好去老師家吃西班牙海鮮飯
老師因為是留西回來
所以也很喜歡在上菜前說一個故事
回家後我跟提先生有討論到西方人的說故事文化 (其實不只是料理方面!)
當每道料理說一個故事時......
"它 (已經) 不只是道料理,還包含一段共同的回憶" --此段話引自提先生最近的暱稱
啊啊~實在太欣賞這種方式了!
(以後我們也為肉圓.臭豆腐.蚵仔麵線等想個故事流傳吧~)

Stefanie 發表於 January 24, 2007 04:26 AM

挖...這篇說得精采阿...
我覺得...台灣人就是太含蓄了...沒像食神死的說成活的功力
其實美國這邊也很多食物的故事(每個家庭的祖傳食譜背後還有不同的故事呢...)美國各地有名的當地食物/名產(其實很多都是其他國家食物美國化)都有個"意外"或是"實驗"的小故事, 電視節目也可以因為這樣就做一個30分鐘到一小時的特輯
台灣應該要有多一點像夫人這樣的...將台灣食物發揚光大
(我贊成應該要有個節目去探討台灣美食"背後"的故事...其實小時後看電視還是書有印象幾個有介紹的說..像是阿婆鐵蛋, 基隆鼎邊剉, 台南棺材板之類的...大概也是因為她們有故事, 所以也特別有名吧:P)

不過這邊的中國餐館的食物應該比你們那邊要好吃很多吧...只是...超級懷念台灣的米粉湯(粗的)...紐約這邊還是吃不到...嗚嗚嗚

ALex 發表於 January 24, 2007 04:18 AM

Mrs. Turtle,

營養豐富 身心愉快 袪除百病
凡人就是五穀雑糧養大的
飲食飽遮寒暖就是幸福人

請問吃燉飯是否想到台式鹹粥 廣東粥
願詳知評比

TSAI MALI 發表於 January 24, 2007 04:02 AM

我要點一碗甜椒蝦蝦燉飯
謝謝

餓到ㄎㄧㄠ咕的fish 發表於 January 24, 2007 03:15 AM

前段寫得讚
中段買得讚 照得讚
後段煮得讚

姐你太神了啦 拜~~
難道酷酷掃使你功力大增?!

fish 發表於 January 24, 2007 03:13 AM

可以出食譜書喔
有故事又拍的好
真的很吸引我這種只能照圖煮飯的
而且連食材都有故事就更不同了
一道菜立刻充滿了想像空間

下廚是一個生活中最輕易可以取得的成就感
每每照食譜做完一道菜
小孩就會立刻說哇mama你真是一個大廚師阿
雖然只是一個簡單的家常菜 呵~

nana 發表於 January 24, 2007 02:46 AM

部落格盛行常看到有美食美美照片
但是看完本篇
大概是我看過的所謂美食部落格裡講的最深入的
美食變得有生命有靈魂變成藝術和美學
不再是跑到某知名餐廳要吃之前拿相機猛拍就叫美食
講到美鳳有約那段笑得好大聲
(甜椒和番茄拍的好美)

lion 發表於 January 24, 2007 01:56 AM

大概是華人缺乏想像力吧!食物本身千變萬化又好吃,所以實在不需要添加“故事“來“神話“它。但是話說回來,當一個食物有豐富的傳統在背後支撐的時候,對食用它的人的心理(催眠作用),不知加了多少分呢!至少爸媽去日本玩的時候,導遊是這麼說的。

Euphtw 發表於 January 24, 2007 01:16 AM
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