July 21, 2008

依舊共黨的波蘭

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剛從一個前共黨、仍深深沈浸在共黨氣氛中的國家回來。我們去了波蘭南邊的古城Kraków,英文稱Krakow或Cracow。

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大廣場上的聖瑪麗教堂

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街頭非常制式的波蘭麵包攤

波蘭,不知道為什麼總讓我把他和「勞工」聯想在一起,電影中、小說中、旅遊文學中、現實生活的英國社會中,常常看到波蘭勞工這個名詞。波蘭男人的長相很好認,臉上總是帶著一股憂愁,不管他是白領、藍領,就是逃不了那種憂愁的氣質,就是電影中的波蘭勞工長相,因為波蘭人種非常純正,人口有96%都是波蘭人。

僅僅去了波蘭幾天,似乎可以從我對這個城市外顯出來的表皮樣貌,嗅出點所以然來,一個國土完整、疆土臨海、土地資源也不貧瘠、人口3千8百多萬、氣候也不是特別惡劣的國家,為什麼一直富強不起來,大概是民族性吧!

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Wawel 大教堂

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波蘭,歷史上一直被周圍的強權給侵犯,曾經被瑞典入侵,被普魯士、蘇聯、奧匈帝國佔領,好不容易在一次大戰後獨立了,卻又在二次大戰時被德國納粹入侵,戰後又被蘇維埃共黨給統治,一直到1989年才又回到了自由獨立的國家,的確是個悲情的國家。

只是,共黨解體將近20年,2004年也擠入了歐盟,但,似乎還沒來得及改變這個國家與人民的心態,多數人仍不知道該怎麼學會微笑,或許因為不富有也就顯得小家子氣。他們的服務業搞得像是老舊的公務人員心態,有種愛來不來隨你便的感覺,店員還會用一雙無神的眼睛瞪著妳看,連大教堂裡售票的老修女,都用一種非常勢利的眼光盯著我的學生證,然後說「under 26?」。之前在希臘雅典,拿著一張英國學生證(只要是EU國家的學生),可以走遍天下,包含衛城在內的所有收門票景點,全都free,因為要鼓勵學生來參觀呀,這回,那張學生證跟廢紙一樣,一次也用不上,連學生票都買不到。

隔壁的捷克人,臉雖然也是臭,但是他們懂得要做生意賺觀光客的錢,至少有很多讓觀光客很想掏出錢來的紀念品;再隔壁的匈牙利,布達佩斯雖然也是破,但總不置於讓人感受到窮酸樣(事實上,我很喜歡那種帶點新舊衝突的樣子,甚至還期待看見共黨留下的色彩),至少行前匈牙利與布達佩斯觀光局願意寄出很多很多的旅遊資訊與地圖給我,波蘭觀光局與Kraków觀光局,任憑我再怎麼寫e-mail,也沒人理。

原來,去了之後才明瞭,他們幾乎是沒有印製免費觀光折頁和地圖的,觀光點也拿不到任何有用的官方資訊,更不要說可以做紀念的印刷品,即使在地底鹽礦買了一張不可思議昂貴的門票(新台幣960元,也是不能用學生證),連一張指示地圖都沒有。當然,也就不可能有任何資訊可以先寄給我了,因為,沒有啊。而且,販售的手冊與折頁,還是放在妳無法伸手的櫃臺後方,要哪一份,共黨阿桑會親自拿給妳,誰敢買呀!?

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我很喜歡的新藝術風格彩繪玻璃的教堂Franciscan church

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Franciscan church裡其中一個小禮拜堂

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Krakow到處可見若望保羅二世的足跡

當然,Kraków是個很美很古典很宗教的波蘭古都,連二次大戰時,原本要轟炸她的將領都捨不得(很類似京都在戰爭時的那段故事),這一念之差完整保存了這個城市。城裡的大教堂小教堂,一座又一座,波蘭是個非常虔誠的天主教國家,有九成以上的天主教徒,城裡大街小巷有許多正在洽公的修女修士,也有許多別的地方來朝聖的修女修士,我很喜歡帶著摩爾色彩和新藝術風格的教堂內部,那種特別的紫藍色,不曾在別的地方見過。

Kraków的全名Royal Capital City of Kraków,可以想見她過去輝煌的歷史,從城裡的建築可以看見她過去的輝煌,從大廣場的尺度可以想見她過去的氣派。我不特別喜歡每個城市的大廣場,通常只要離開那個大廣場,我就會漸漸愛上那個地方,因為大廣場總是聚集了大批遊客、一間又一間坑人的餐廳與咖啡館,Kraków還有集中管理的紀念品街,就在廣場正中央的Cloth Hall裡,全是讓我倒盡胃口的商店,紀念品八成以上是瑪瑙(納悶著東歐為什麼有這麼多瑪瑙,上次在愛沙尼亞的老城區裡,也是只有無止盡的瑪瑙店)。

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猶太區

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猶太墓園裡的圍牆,用古墓碑鑲嵌

我的行李箱空了好多空間與重量,就是為了想去買點有味道的小東西回來,這回,連一張沒有重量的波蘭郵票都沒買成。在郵政總局排了兩次很長的隊伍,第一次排了20分鐘,其實我們前面只有二個人,不會英文的共黨阿桑跟我們比手劃腳說:「這裡只賣寄信的郵票,沒有收集的郵票,下午二點到對面的櫃臺買。」下午去了鹽礦回來,又到她說的專賣郵票櫃臺,又排了好長一列隊伍(中午排隊的那個櫃臺關了,所以寄信的人又排到這邊來),看看那些貼在櫥窗上的郵票,除了若望保羅二世還是若望保羅二世(教宗是波蘭和Kraków最驕傲的人之一,他當上教宗前,曾在Kraków待過很久一段時間,因此有許多來朝聖的信徒,他可是五百多年來第一位非義大利籍又在位第二久的教宗),而我,就這樣放棄了買波蘭郵票的機會。

說到波蘭人的小氣,有個最經典的例子,在城堡皇宮上的小郵局買了幾張要寄明信片的郵票,結果3張台灣、2張英國的郵票,那女人說什麼也不願意多給我們2張「航空藍色小貼紙」,她說寄英國的不用貼,所以只能給3張。天啊,2張小貼紙耶!?真的完完全全被打敗了,幾乎每個國家的郵局總是要多少張給多少張,慷慨的英國人還會給妳一大全張呀。

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地窖餐廳

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喬治亞餐

翻了自己這幾天寫的手記,怎麼全都是不悅的回憶。當然,不去介意波蘭人的態度,不要在意波蘭人的小氣,這個每年有七百多萬遊客的Kraków,以及她2小時車程外Oświęcim的奧茲維辛集中營(Auschwitz-Birkenau Memorial and Museum)、50分鐘車程外Wieliczka的中世紀鹽礦(Salt Mines),一次可以走訪三個UNESCO世界文化遺產,仍舊值得一訪,不過在其實範圍也不小的Kraków舊城區走一趟,又在集中營的二大區塊沈重的健行了一整天,又在地底一百多公尺的鹽礦走了好幾百階的階梯和四通八達的坑道,回來,不鐵腿真的不可能。所以,如果妳是抱著度假的輕鬆心態旅行,還是飛希臘吧,這裡真的讓人精疲力竭。

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喔,還是忍不住再來提一下進出波蘭海關的經驗。

波蘭,去年底才加入申根簽證,因此,用「台灣」護照,拿著一張「英國」發出來的「德國」申根簽證,還不是進出首都「華沙」的我們,引來了Kraków海關高度的關注。入關時,還好排了最後兩名,讓海關可以無止盡的查詢、登錄,年輕的男海關,查了又查、問了又問,還打電話找來了一名上級,又慎重詳細的比對了一遍,還要登記我們住宿的旅館,還要回程的時間和機票,甚至連老P在英國唸什麼都要知道,不是「Architecture」就可以打發喔,還要問是建築的那一方面,好厲害呀,還好,這位海關雖然不會笑,但是態度不至於不好。

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中世紀鹽礦礦坑裡,原來鹽不是只有海裡有,岩石裡也會滲出鹽的結晶

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Wieliczka Salt Mines最著名的就是地底一百多公尺深的教堂,這裡所有東西都是鹽的結晶雕刻出來的

出關時,想說要離開了,應該很容易吧。

哇~比入關更久。

Kraków機場小到不能再小,這座機場的名稱叫「教宗若望保羅二世機場」,一天也沒幾架次航班起降,航廈說不定還沒有水楠機場的大,候機時,被指標騙上樓想去三樓陽台看飛機,結果要出那個陽台還要經過X光檢查,小烏龜還被那起來看了很久,大概被懷疑是個手榴彈吧,而且居然還要投幣才能出去,這種小錢也要賺,因為機場航廈內看不到飛機起降,波蘭人大概也不常看見飛機起降,居然陽台上滿滿的人。

Check In之後,我們拿了剩餘零錢買杯啤酒,悠哉的打發時間,一小時前準備去排隊,糟糕了,怎麼會大排長龍,其實旅客也沒多少人,只是那空間太小,所以大排長龍,前進的速度比「我」還慢,這種速度應該只有人山人海的希斯羅機場才可能發生呀。排了近半小時,終於輪到我們,只有三部X光機,每一部前各站了三名戴黑手套的兇狠冷血表情軍警,九個人的腰帶上都配了手槍,那種架勢真的有嚇,連X光檢查的都要問我們飛哪裡?身上的耳環、手錶、戒指全都要取下來,那種感覺實在很不舒服。

好不容易通過檢查,接下來又有海關,我們排在Non EU通關的窗口,前面約7個人,卻排了好久好久,因為後方有好多持美國護照的人不斷往前插隊,不是他們故意要插隊的,因為X光安檢太久,海關檢查又太久,急促的廣播不斷傳來「飛芝加哥的旅客請趕快登機……,機艙門要關了。」其實那班飛機已經延遲了1個半小時了,沒辦法呀,海關仍舊慢條斯理的看著每個人護照上的每一個字。我們也就不斷讓這些趕機的旅客插隊。

搞到最後,換我們差點來不及,登機前10分鐘,終於輪到我們,海關翻了又翻,因為要在貼滿貼紙的護照上,找到那張有效簽證,老實說有點難,好不容易終於找到,又在電腦裡比對了好久,又輸入好多資料,然後又問「這是德國申根?」廢話,你看不懂喔!整個過程大概弄了10幾分鐘,我從海關玻璃上的反光,可以看到後面的旅客顯得非常非常的不耐煩,對不起,這不是我願意的。

終於,逃離了那種被審問的惡劣感覺,我們和一整機的波蘭勞工,一起飛回了倫敦。抵達倫敦Luton機場後,通過了親切的海關問候,出關時,真的覺得呼吸到一股自由的空氣,我第一次有這麼深刻的感覺。

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以上七張黑白影像攝於奧茲維辛集中營

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korsu001korsu001 發表於 August 12, 2014 09:53 AM

广东人,
因為你的留言
特地又回憶了一次這趟旅程
因為我很懷疑哪裡寫過大陸恐怖的樣子呀
根本沒提到半個字啊??????
請不要自己對號入座呀

mrs.turtle 發表於 May 27, 2012 10:51 PM

因为要去krakau玩,在网上搜到这篇日志,很喜欢你的记述,可看到后面却又觉得挺无奈和悲哀。
不知道大陆在你们印象中是多么恐怖的样子,大概是所有人都不会笑,愁眉苦脸地活着吧。所有所谓的恐怖都是所谓的共党带来的吧。
你们觉得你们活在完全自由的世界,可是你们所得的信息却如此片面又深信不疑。
只是觉得挺悲哀。本来的同胞,为何会变成这样。

广东人 發表於 May 25, 2012 06:40 AM

sonny,
請千萬千萬不要介意啊~

mrs.turtle 發表於 August 23, 2008 06:33 PM

意外發現似乎還是給夫人帶來了困擾,真是很抱歉,
希望不曾影響到夫人心情的美麗;
也謝謝夫人把留言刪掉了,
否則我看到的話,回嘴又不是,但應該沒辦法忍住不回嘴.....:P

再次跟夫人說聲不好意思~~~

sonny 發表於 August 22, 2008 01:38 AM

SWP,
嗯嗯~在當地生活一定有更多更深入的觀察
謝謝你的經驗談
原來不只是觀光簽證這樣呀
我發現~是不是有不少人在波蘭讀書呢?

Jamie,
其實很多時候只是旅人自己的經驗
剛好遇上了不喜歡的人事物
旅館、餐廳、機場...都會影響旅人的心情
我們在波蘭也遇到幾次很熱心的路人甲乙丙呢
我覺得他們只是不會微笑吧

思懿,
我也是~
以為開放這麼多年了

cassiopeia,
pp是?

mrs.turtle 發表於 August 15, 2008 08:52 PM

很PP啊!

cassiopeia 發表於 August 11, 2008 03:57 AM

我从没想过波兰会是这样子的.

思懿 發表於 August 4, 2008 03:37 AM

剛從捷克回來
就看到這篇文章

說實在
對某些捷克人的“驕傲“或“共產態度“(??)(這裡真的要打很多問號,因為我真的不知道原因啊)
把東方人當小兵訓的聲調和表情
真是令人不舒服
不過
跟波蘭比就又不之孰重孰輕了
斯洛伐克再更多年以前就領教過共產統治的行政步驟


但是一般的人民卻是極其可愛的
在路口
只要一拿出地址或地圖躊躇
就有人馬上會過來
用英文用捷克文問道要去哪啊,地址給我
然後
很熱心地指路,甚至,就親自帶你過去了
很純真的熱心助人的心態

給同行的朋友看這篇
她喜歡極了

順便說一聲
把夫人和老P都加入連結囉

Jamie 發表於 August 2, 2008 06:07 AM

因為google reader推薦的關係找到了你的BLOG,我剛好在波蘭讀書,對於你形容的某些東西真是覺得再貼切也不過了。我的感覺是波蘭人的性格不只是共產制度的結果,還包括了之前納粹的侵略,和一次接著一次的被異國政權統治和鎮壓的結果。經歷過那麼多個不偷搶拐騙就不能生存的年代,天性多疑或許是他們的保護色吧。

不過話說回來,我在這裡讀書三年了每次入境也都還是要半個小時45分鐘的。到最後學乖了都先讓班機其他乘客先離開。

SWP 發表於 August 1, 2008 04:36 PM

Polar,
時間改變了一切
開放也會改變一切
拜訪這樣國家總是很矛盾

alex,
挖哩咧~
如果你不知道前因後果
無禮的在這裡謾罵別人的留言
只好刪了它呀~
我這裡"不需要無謂的讚美",就像我也"不需要無禮謾罵"的道理一樣
你放心,這一則我絕對不會刪~留著給大家看也無妨
請自重

mrs.turtle 發表於 July 30, 2008 10:28 AM

夫人,

有些不解,一个正常的讨论便成了恶意留言而被删除。没有人在意你删除与否。只是在对一个事实做出讨论,我周围很多台湾朋友,我也有去过台湾拜访。每个人很热情,也很友好!
sonny同学的评论我认为是针对“贵国(中国or大陆)人士不友好的行为” 实在令人费解! 我做出了我的评论。很遗憾的发现原来你在用你自己的标准在评价谁对你友好,谁对你不友好。

一片赞美之词不是通过删除得来的!

alex 發表於 July 30, 2008 06:00 AM

原來現在的Kraków是這等模樣.
1992年我去波蘭時,記得Warsaw的牆上還留著彈孔,Kraków也沒那麼美.
時間,改變了好多事物哦.

Polar 發表於 July 29, 2008 08:07 PM

sonny,
原來如此呀~唉
那個護照套沒用啦
因為過海關前
就有斗大的標語寫著"請拿掉你的護照套"
所以怎麼包都是包給自己看的咩

mrs.turtle 發表於 July 29, 2008 12:49 AM

稟夫人:
因為我的帳號也被冒用了呀,所以才會注意到(第七則留言);
奇怪我的留言有任何文字透露出我的國家認同嗎?為何要冒用我的帳號?不解;
倒是剛好這兩天看到一個台灣護照套:
http://blog.xuite.net/daiwanlang/dropsin2urmind/18308497
應該可以有效避免混淆吧!
如果有興趣的話,留學生團體應該是可以弄得到的~^^

sonny 發表於 July 28, 2008 03:42 AM

Stefanie,
我就說了嘛
旅行是一種完全的自虐
不過一定值得啦
光是看一個展覽就獲益良多吧
最近也在倫敦看了感動不已的畫展

mrs.turtle 發表於 July 27, 2008 10:40 PM

越來越佩服你們這種方式的旅行了!
我們光這個週末到柏林一天半
就覺得好累好累呀......
有時候連相機都不太想拿起來了
而且好花錢呀......

Stefanie 發表於 July 26, 2008 08:44 PM

sonny,
你有看到那則留言呀
沒關係啦
在意這麼多了話
那就真的會寫不下去了
做自己、要求自己就好了
惡意的我就只好刪了ㄚ

园园,
非常謝謝你的鼓勵和支持
這種情況我想還是會無可避免的再次發生
我們要學會有高EQ來面對
而且我還是相信多數人都是良善的
繼續來編織"烏托邦"

mrs.turtle 發表於 July 26, 2008 11:10 AM

或许是由于自我的信仰缺失吧,我一向对政治不是很热心。因为我也还是一个学生,所以对许多事情都不是很了解。大家各自都有自己的立场,想真切地了解真像恐怕也不是容易的事情。

我只是希望大家会坦诚的、开心的相处,希望网络上会有一片没有争执存在的乌托邦,各自都少一些偏执,多一些容忍。

喜欢夫人的博客,两年多了,几乎每天都会上来看看。因为美好的东西会净化人的心灵,看到夫人美丽的图片和文字就会忘却很多烦恼。

一切都会好起来的~


园园 發表於 July 25, 2008 05:47 AM

雖然我似乎不應該多嘴,以免給夫人帶來困擾,
但還是想告訴园园,之所以會有偏見(?),也是來自貴國部份人士的不友善行為,
冒用他人的帳號暱稱發表惡意的留言,要如何讓人對這個國家產生好感?
這麼不友善的留言自然就被夫人刪掉了。

看來要化解誤會,還有很長遠的路要走,
或許先各自要求自己的同胞吧!

sonny 發表於 July 25, 2008 02:32 AM

tautau,
你怎麼知道我有沒有去德國哩!?呵呵
規定當然沒有改呀~

ever,
當初老P選擇來英國唸書的目的
無非是這裡與歐陸這麼近
唸建築、念藝術的人
再怎麼樣都得出去走走
這樣的學科
閉門造車是造不出來的
旅途上學習的絕對比學校裡教的要多太多
唸了一輩子的科比意
沒有真正到廊香教堂的草地前朝聖
那等於沒唸過一樣啊
所以~繼續旅行去~~

stys,
原來不只有我們過海關的經驗比較糟呀
不過我真懷疑這些海關到底有沒有受訓過
怎麼可能會搞不清楚呀
說到波蘭的消費
原以為這裡GDP是11000多美金!?
應該物價很合理
至少要比我們便宜點
但是Krakow是個觀光城
住宿和食物老實說都不便宜
連門票都讓我很錯愕
鹽礦一個人要新台幣960元
只有交通便宜了點
但是去集中營的巴士居然是輛破公車
坐2小時真的超難受的呀

园园,
看到你中肯的留言終於讓我釋懷一點
其實現在寫文章都很猶疑
很多字眼怕引來是非
也寫不出自己真正想說的
因為沒那個意思就會被解釋成那個意思
我不想這裡變成戰場
總是一忍再忍
其實大可以直接刪除留言
但是我想讓大家都看見
也讓大家自己評斷
網路上的言論無限上綱
尤其對於台灣與中國、藍與綠、獨立與否
每個人都有自己的想法與立場
橫衝直撞並沒有好處
我也不想說服任何人
因為那一輩子也說服不了的
是的,有機會我很想認識中國這個國家
也希望你們以同樣的心情來認識台灣這個國家

mrs.turtle 發表於 July 24, 2008 09:34 PM

好久不见夫人,原来是去了波兰~
看到这篇文章,总是有一种说不出来的感觉。。。
看到一些留言更是不知道该说点什么。
共党、中国……
忽然间觉得误会很多,党派和政治,这些不应该成为交流的障碍和文化传播的隔阂。由于各个政权都有自己的宣传方式,所以导致了许多人对某些地区和国家的误会,因为毕竟每个国家的媒体都是为相应的政权服务的,舆论上的自由也都是相对的(包括所谓言论自由的美国)。
希望大家会抛弃偏见来了解大陆。在传播中我们的信息流通是不对等的,许多人对大陆都不太了解。我对台湾的感情就像亲人一样。。。一直觉得彼此是兄弟姐妹。。。何必如此敏感(we are not chinese,we come from taiwan...)

似乎不应该在这里提出这么敏感的话题。不过每个人都有个美好的愿望不是么?我相信隔阂会消失的

——园园,来自大陆的朋友

园园 發表於 July 24, 2008 04:07 PM

2006年波蘭行,以下是我的感想:
1.12點40抵達波蘭Krakow機場,我們是最後一組入關,麻煩來了,海關官員問了許多問題,來幹什麼的?旅行。回程機票?住哪裡?一一拿出,我太太只好跟他說:我們不是中國人,來自台灣(We are not Chinese,we come from Taiwan.),這位海關終於懂了,很客氣的請我們過關,不過這位老兄英文確實不佳,連一句祝你們有個愉快的旅程(Have a nice trip!)也說不來,還得向旁邊的小姐求援。
2.集中營按Lonely Planet上說1.5小時可到達,可是我們足足花了2小時以上,沿途時常塞車,以為路上出車禍或是修路等狀況,原來什麼都不是就一個紅綠燈(大概一個綠燈只能通過十輛車),秒差太快造成大塞車,波蘭人真是不太聰明。
3.到達Torun已是12點半了,車站附近非常荒涼,向車站內的I詢問,對我們不理不採面無表情,態度非常差,根本無視我們的存在,如果不會說英文至少聳聳肩也好,我們就好像跟木頭人講話一般,真差勁。
4.Gdansk過海關時前面根本沒有其他旅客,那位女海關人員手一招,我太太小跑步過去卻沒有在海關人員前停下,因為她確實不知要在何處檢查,結果這位海關立刻顯露出潑辣兇狠的臉色,那種眼神至今記憶猶新,厲聲問道:Where are you going?接下來則對Jenna嚴加拷問,來幹嘛的?去了哪些地方?還用雷射檢查護照是否持假護照,Jenna以中文回她一句:這種濫國家誰要來啊!當然對方是聽不懂的,可能那位海關人員自覺無須如此嚴厲也笑了出來。輪到我時護照也有檢查但就不囉唆了。
5.集中營太悲慘了,看到頭皮發麻渾身不自在,另一個集中營Birkenau就沒去參觀。
不過看到許多共產黨的東西,此行目的也算達到。另外波幣Zloty這兩年狂升,2006年不到11元台幣,現在已接近15元,很可怕。

stys 發表於 July 23, 2008 12:02 PM

倒是很少聽到在歐洲的留學生不出去走走的
這裡太精采了很難不心動
除非有很大家累的或是對旅行一點興趣也沒有的宅男腐女們
要不然就是生性依賴也不會找便宜資訊的人
連省吃儉用的大陸學生都很熱衷了更何況台灣學生
國家那麼近又有很多門路可以找到超便宜的機票住宿
從台灣來可以貴到十倍以上
絕對值得趁著在這裡的時間拼一下
夫人請寬心不用理會
關於申根簽證我也常常頭一個進入非申請國
至今沒有什麼問題

ever 發表於 July 23, 2008 08:31 AM

可能我認識的留學生多只能用開會補助出去看看...

暑假更多在家裏,因為去哪裡都貴!

也想請問旅遊專家:

可以申請德國申根卻沒去德國嗎?

記得以前申請時是規定申根簽證發證國必須是旅程第一目的地或是要待最久的國家,

是規定改了嗎??

tautau 發表於 July 23, 2008 04:54 AM

張小鴨,
嗯嗯~通關只是速度慢一點
不至於有什麼刁難之處啦
別擔心~
要去趕快去喔~
現在應該還能看到很多想看的東西

sonny,
不是去這個國家不好玩
其實這趟旅程真的是非常非常的豐富
就是太豐富了受不了~
是我們自己的時間點不太恰當
在身心罪疲勞時去
那真的是找罪受呀
不過就像英國朋友說的"這些都不是Holiday的地方呀"

那個地底鹽礦實在神奇
有機會來介紹

揚,
東歐真的很值得去探索
柏林也是一個非常有趣的地方
一定要去看看~

Trista,
不會啦~
就是去看一個完全不一樣的地方
還是非常非常值得的
糟糕~我寫得好像那裡很難玩!?

fish,
是啊是啊
這一趟每一篇寫起來都超多故事的
這真是個有趣的地方
人的臉能這麼臭實在也不簡單
日子真有這麼難過嗎
這裡的教堂內部真的很特別
鹽礦教堂更精彩~不過在地底下跟著解說員走兩個多小時
真的很想哭
不過
這裡不適合帶寶寶去
小齊會被臭臉嚇到的
寶寶來英國好了
這裡的人至少都會假假的笑

LIN,
嗯嗯~是很值得去的地方
能看的東西太多太多了
只要先有被臭臉的心理準備就好了

logitester,
真的嗎
以在歐洲的經驗
綠色的護照還是比紅色的護照要好用許多捏
這趟有一對拿紅色護照的男女
被請去特別室很久很久都沒見他們出來呀
God bless you...

阿莫,
嗯嗯~現在申根方便多了
只是英國為什麼不加入啊
對我來說還是很很很不方便呀
東歐國家的不一樣
還真的每個國家都不一樣
不過我真的比較喜歡捷克或匈牙利
這也是為什麼我選了Krakow
因為我覺得我一定更不能接受華沙

諒媽,
我也覺得很怪
發展中的國家應該是要歡迎外來的遊客才是
怎麼還這樣惡搞
他應該不會以為我們想要滯留波蘭吧
離開共黨統治20年
對大多數的波蘭人來說應該還是很謹慎小心
那種戒慎恐懼一輩子也忘不了吧
大概只有20歲以下的年輕人才笑得出來吧

不過
這次入關的海關很有常識
他知道我們的護照是台灣喔~了不起

k2,
不過~如果你想體驗那種共黨留下來的氣氛
還是早點去看看也不錯
太資本主義了就像布拉格一樣

阿陶,
我認識的留學生
每個人都玩得比我們多呀
你想太多啦~
至於簽證~海關都沒說什麼呀
希臘和北歐各國的海關都非常的客氣
波蘭海關也不是指針對我們
拿美國護照的他也是盤查更久呀

Fin,
英國的營建業和農業
有很多波蘭勞工
尤其採草莓的都是波蘭人(之前有個專題節目報導的)
因為波蘭勞工可以比較便宜又工時可以比較長
那個節目看了很辛酸
這些波蘭男人在波蘭都有家庭妻小
為了多賺點錢
只好遠離家鄉來到英國工作
看到他們離開家的畫面真的很鼻酸
也有做到你提到的上教堂畫面

Tiffany,
哇~你們這個暑假也是走透透呀
嗯嗯~捷克的旅遊經驗對我而言也是比較好一點
不過布拉格人的臉也是夠臭呀
但是布拉格有好多好玩的店可以逛
Krakow的紀念品店就非常的統一整齊
逛完廣場上那個Hall就沒有了
真是傻眼呀
不過還是值得去啦
真的很很很豐富

mrs.turtle 發表於 July 22, 2008 10:15 PM

兩個星期前才到隔壁的捷克去小繞了一下, 雖然也是過去曾經被德國佔領過
但是對於大批的德國人,捷克人仍是笑笑著用德語招待這些觀光客
東西又美又便宜, 也感覺不到共產國家人民的臭臉
看來夫人的經驗, 德國的另外一個鄰居(波蘭)還是排到旅行名單的後面好了

Tiffany 發表於 July 22, 2008 10:09 PM

倫敦家旁有家Polish Deli,是我們每個星期必到之處。
現在想想裏頭的店員好像也很少開口笑,先生去買時才會得到免費試吃,而我從來沒有。
有次看到英國的電視節目才發現波蘭人移民到英國愈來愈多了,多到上教堂時擠不進去,就都站在外頭。

Fin 發表於 July 22, 2008 08:49 PM

你們拿了德國申根卻去了希臘,北歐各國跟波蘭,
這樣可以嗎?
還是之後還有德國行呢??
期待中...

一個暑假就能跑那麼多地方,
想必是德朵先生就要畢業了!
也恭喜夫人新書大賣喔!

阿陶 發表於 July 22, 2008 05:51 PM

原本這幾年計畫要來一趟波蘭之旅
看了夫人的描述後
還是多等幾年
等他們將共吃大鍋飯的共產心態轉化成資本主義的旅客至上的心態後
再去也不遲

k2 發表於 July 22, 2008 04:45 PM

所以諒媽你看
在哪裡長大的人 就有哪種"霸ㄉㄥ/"和性格
我們不跟他們一般
"水平"不一樣嘛
ㄘㄟ/
閃邊喝水去

fish 發表於 July 22, 2008 02:53 PM

真是很鳥很鳥的國家
難怪總是好不起來
因為是"共產國家"啊

共產國家真的很可憐
每個人都不快樂 連小孩都是
因為要笑 看到爸爸媽媽的臉怎麼笑得出來

這樣觀光怎麼還做得起來
什麼比水湳機場還小
看完你的文章 再看這些黑白的照片
我心都打結了

我才不想去那種不快樂的地方
還要被一直問....
真的覺得海關要有基本知識
明明我們的護照是綠色 怎麼老是跟共產紅色想在一起
而且我們是在快樂的地方長大
只是去看看 他們有多不快樂
誰想留在那裡
幫幫忙好不好


諒媽 發表於 July 22, 2008 09:31 AM

好吧 波蘭是我最想去的地方了!
當初因為辦簽證實在太困難所以放棄了
現在有歐盟的申根簽證 真是太方便了~

東歐國家真的很不一樣
這個不一樣之處
也是旅行回來後 最深刻的回憶
不是嗎?

阿莫 發表於 July 22, 2008 06:31 AM

以后台湾护照会更不好用。哈哈!

logitester 發表於 July 22, 2008 06:00 AM

好沉重的地方...可是.還是想去瞧瞧!
可能要找個適合的旅伴再加上一些心理建設!

LIN 發表於 July 22, 2008 05:47 AM

姊姊 怎麼惡劣的波蘭行 給你寫起來帶點無奈的趣味
弄得我很想去瞧瞧 那共黨阿嬤到底臉有多臭
比水湳機場還小的教宗機場 帶了手槍手套的軍警
嗯 這個地方有意思

教堂好美 新藝術教堂的紫藍色確實特別
鹽做的教堂更屌了

白色巨塔的集中營 想必你有更多東西要寫
期待期待

fish 發表於 July 22, 2008 05:29 AM

看來台灣人想去波蘭, 得有很大的覺悟再去.

Trista 發表於 July 22, 2008 03:32 AM

原本今年想去東歐與柏林 年初買了德意志製造結果跑到希臘 鹽當然是在海中 如果有岩鹽(如四川)那代表過去這裡是海洋
後因板塊移動合在一起 海水跑不出去蒸發掉鹽留下來形成岩鹽面的話我講過很多遍(我曾教過幾年地球科學) 但我沒看過心虛中
希臘的行程一點也不輕鬆 我跟團有更多的時間來瞭解希臘文化坐了十幾個小時的飛機到雅典 馬上拉車到有世界中心之稱的德爾菲 再拉車到天空之城 從米島到聖島淡季船不開 所以坐船到米島後又坐船回雅典再到聖島 到聖島最讓我傷腦筋的是為什麼火山口在最低位置 為什麼希臘是歐洲文化的起源 那邊的自然環境有什麼不同 走在Mykonos的海邊上我一直想著這個問題

發表於 July 22, 2008 02:20 AM

看來去趟這個國家真是不容易,身體心理都要很健康才行,
我應該是沒辦法的;
不知道夫人能否多貼幾張相片讓我們這種去不了的人開開眼界?
我個人對於鹽雕刻出來的教堂很好奇說~

sonny 發表於 July 22, 2008 01:51 AM

照片中透露著淡淡的哀愁...
如果去華沙,在出入境時還有旅遊狀況不知道會不會不一樣。
我也想去這個曾經神秘的共產國家看看,看看加入歐盟後的國內新舊衝突。

張小鴨 發表於 July 21, 2008 08:35 PM
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