February 21, 2009

打狗行【Ⅶ】:高捷

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賞完了浪漫的西子灣夕陽(第10站),離開時天色已暗,斷斷續續吃了一整個下午的我們,實在是飽了,央求主人真的別再帶我們晚餐了。那晚上去哪兒好呢?又沒興致擠去看燈會煙火,剛剛也沒在漁人碼頭買海上賞煙火的船票,那…就去看看高雄捷運的夜景吧。

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橋頭糖廠站,10位年輕藝術家的作品

早上,離開橋頭糖廠時,馬莎團和S姑娘非常貼心的還幫客人準備了兩張捷運卡,讓我們可以從糖廠站上車,體驗一小段高架的捷運風景,台北捷運裡總是匆忙的都市人,高雄捷運裡感覺都是來觀光的遊人。台灣的捷運真的是整齊乾淨,禁止飲食的確是一項德政,那會少了很多麻煩,不要像倫敦恐怖的百年地鐵,髒到不能再髒的地步了。

糖廠這一站,有以古早生活為題材的彩繪玻璃圍牆,對應著後方糖廠的濃密樹影倒也不錯,只是作品本身被當作是公共藝術感覺不太明顯,聽說捷運沿線許多站都設置了公共藝術,待日後有機會來一一探訪了。

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世運站

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綠意盎然的中油宿舍,最遠方就是世運會場

我們在世運站下車,這一站的建築本身和公共藝術都是重點站,不過,我更愛車站往世運主場館方向看去的景色,可以看見一大片的綠,那塊樹蔭濃密的地方,也是多年前M&S帶我們去過的中油老宿舍區。

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紫色燈光的建築即是大立精品

果然是有安排過的,早上先讓我們先看了兩個高架的車站,因為它們需要靠天光來欣賞,晚上,則安排了另兩個適合夜景觀賞的。我們開車晃過了荷蘭UN Studio(德國賓士汽車博物館的設計者)所設計的大立精品建築外觀,夜晚的LED果然是幻化目眩。

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美麗島站裡的光之穹頂

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高松伸的美麗島站入口

馬克停好了車子,陪我們來到市中心的中央公園站,看了英國建築大師Richard Rogers(巴黎龐畢度中心、倫敦希斯羅機場第五航廈等建築的設計師)設計的中央公園站;然後搭了一站到美麗島站,此站是捷運東西和南北兩條路線的交會處,最特殊的就是高捷最常被提及的公共藝術「光之穹頂」,車站入口的建築設計也來自日本名師高松伸;然後,我們又再搭回到中央公園站。

我必須老實說,在歐洲確實也看了不少這些國際名師的作品,不管建築也好、藝術也罷,怎麼在高雄看,就是看不出個所以然來!?作品本身的問題?周遭環境的問題?還是我的心情問題?

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Richard Rogers的中央公園站

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中央公園站外的聖誕樹

姑且不管對於這些作品的喜好,來說一件我看到的現象。

台灣高鐵該蓋嗎?當然。高雄捷運該建嗎?當然。

然而,捷運車站本身所擔負的是公共交通的基本功能,有好的建築和公共藝術來增色,自然是件再好不過的事。但是以營造成本和營運成本來看,高捷的造價,可能連成本總是很高的英國人都要瞠目結舌了,每個車站都弄得如此富麗堂皇,營運量已經不太多的城市,花這麼多的造價,真的是一件好事嗎?走過了歐洲各國的地鐵車站,無疑的,我們的高捷一定是最豪華的一站。這個情形也同樣出現在高鐵站,烏日站絕對比英國的國際機場還要高級,甚至是Richard Rogers最新的第五航廈。

這麼緊湊的行程中,還能一口氣看了四個車站(第11站),不得不佩服主人的行程安排,該看的重點都看到了,還有景觀設計師在旁一一導覽。

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湯意麵

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乾意麵

這個時候,還有不到一個小時的時間,我們就要搭高鐵了。居然還有最後一站(第12站):三民市場,市場裡有一家遠近馳名的阿萬意麵。這條街想必是熱門的小吃集散地,晚上八點多正生意興隆,我們來到了這家專賣鹽水意麵的老店,幾乎褪色生鏽的招牌、木架構的麵攤、不斷埋頭煮麵的老闆、永遠沒得休息的桌椅,客人是一桌接著一桌。

別小看這碗不起眼的意麵,如果要我排名比較的話,這一碗是當天所有高雄小吃的第一名,濃郁的湯頭、香氣的肉燥、好吃的麵條,再加一顆滷蛋,再去隔壁端一盤米腸加香腸,好吃的沒話說呀,是一種久未嚐到的古早原味。下回再去高雄,我一定還要再吃一碗,對了,還有巷口那家當時我們真的再也吃不下的「燒麻糬」。

打狗行,就在一個景點、一個小吃的密集交錯中,充實的走完了12個小時,原來,旅行"跟團"也不壞啊!(the end)

由 mrs.turtle 發表於 February 21, 2009 12:26 AM
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chenqiuying 發表於 August 13, 2018 07:33 PM

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MK Handbags 發表於 August 12, 2018 08:13 PM

Michael Kors handbags can now be found on many discounted sites for fractions of retail prices. The best option for individuals wanting to own Michael Kors handbags is to shop at online discount stores. A great place to shop for these luxury bags is eBay.
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Michael Kors Outlet Store 發表於 August 12, 2018 02:47 PM

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lzm 發表於 February 17, 2017 10:44 AM

橘子,
對於搭乘使用這一點
我也沒那麼悲觀~
時間的確會改變很多事的


mrs.turtle 發表於 March 23, 2009 12:52 PM

對於高捷,我有個朋友倒是沒有那麼悲觀.
現在的上班族不習慣搭高捷.
那或許是習慣使然,
但是想想,現在這群搭高捷的這些學生長大了.
他們習慣搭高捷,未來,他們出社會了.
應該也是習慣搭高捷的,
人都是慣性的動物,
時間再久一點,我想會越來越多人的。
不過,公共藝術的維護倒是很令人擔心...
台灣政府常常是有頭沒尾的做事...

橘子 發表於 March 22, 2009 02:10 AM

打賊窟,
但是別忘了政客全都是這些笨蛋選出來的呀~
所以笨蛋,其實也不是笨蛋!?

mrs.turtle 發表於 February 28, 2009 06:37 PM

我們都是政府眼中的笨蛋
其實不經濟亂花錢沒遠見是賊仔政府搶錢污錢的本性
作為市民本就對說一套做另一套的白賊政府氁所寄望
咱等著看七級強震臨頭災難時
那該下地獄的白賊仔又如何編劇本自圓胡說
台灣政府一向是扮全民公敵的狠腳色
千錯萬錯都是笨蛋的錯
大人怎麼會犯錯?OS→若硬要找一條說就是撈錢不夠多才算啦
但只有笨蛋才會說,大人鴨.嘴硬死也不說六!

打賊窟 發表於 February 28, 2009 06:51 AM

choutayu,
是啊~
不過倫敦的百年地鐵也是夠糟了
但網絡可是四通八達
沒有他可能城市無法運作了

mrs.turtle 發表於 February 27, 2009 01:41 PM

非常中肯的話.
美麗島站外面4個粽子.店家權益哪?現在外表也佈滿灰塵.這個就是大師ㄧ樣.國內外效果不ㄧ樣.
像倫敦地鐵.有些站.連屋頂.連站員也沒有.很務實.

choutayu 發表於 February 27, 2009 08:18 AM

ukssh,
住在這麼黃金的地段呀~

ALex,
原來妳現在在台灣"享樂"呀
多吃一點吧~

mrs.turtle 發表於 February 24, 2009 01:14 PM

我跑回台灣貪虎啦...上網都在瘋plurk :P
吃了一堆
轉眼間, 居然已經一個多星期過去了
星期六又要飛回米國去了...

ALex 發表於 February 24, 2009 11:59 AM

夫人~:
好久不見~^^
噢噢~
我的租屋處在中央公園站附近呢!!!
開心~>///

ukssh 發表於 February 24, 2009 01:39 AM

瑟熙樂,
真的耶~是有那麼一點味道

Nora,
沒有問題啦
下次一定試試狀元糕
也要看看妳的草莓大福

鴨蜜瓜,
原來還有早點
那一定要吃的啦
糟糕~我下回的高雄之行
會不會有太多吃的啊
好吧~至少有這些新的地標
可以吸引更多人到高雄遊玩
交通建設也是一定要做得早
不能等到需求來時再動工
那就太慢了
高雄應該算是有遠見~

Grace,
Chanel 4幾年前有特別去看過
看得出是用心過的作品

7 point,
下次換去找妳可以嗎~哈哈

Grace,
millennium dome我們還沒有參觀過
希望有機會~
不過那棟也讓大師作品很糗過
曾經變成了蚊子館

馬克思,
經過兩星期的"餓"
現在已經回來了啦~哈哈

Diego,
沒有認真看喔~
只有6個點
然後加了6個吃的
照片其實沒有拍多少啊
我們還可以邊走邊聊天
走得很慢ㄝ
完全不趕

高雄近年來的改變
真的是看得見的
觀光方面也做得很不錯
有機會去瞧瞧吧
不像我的台中呀~

Fin,
妳說到重點了
高捷因為連續的虧錢
所以要節約
很多原本公共藝術或是建築設計時的燈光效果
現在都關掉了
因為要省電啊
這就真的不符合永續的觀念了
現在的建築最重要的就是強調如何省能環保
怎麼還弄這些耗費資源的設計呢
也讓後續的營運成本提高

Grace,
偶爾體驗是還蠻有趣的
不過如果要我每天搭這種交通工具通勤
我可能會瘋了

k2,
我當然不是反對在地鐵站花大錢
用建築大師、藝術名師加持的方式
也是當今世界各大城市吸引人的手法
只是東京、大阪之大、之富有
這些城每天有多少世界觀光客進進出出
這樣的投資當然值得
高雄捷運的興建當然也是很重要的交通建設
現階段可能運量不高
但是將來一定是城市發展很重要的一環
我的意思是高雄不一定需要這些大師
如果能找台灣的建築師
說不定做出來會更有味道、也更經濟呀

ALex,
有地陪的確是可以從容又多元
至少吃的
一定可以吃到很道地的
ps.又好久沒看到妳囉

mrs.turtle 發表於 February 22, 2009 10:25 PM

唉...
回台灣的時間太短
也沒有人可以這樣帶著跑
因為時間不對, 都要上班
不然我也很想去高雄阿~~

ALex 發表於 February 22, 2009 04:25 PM


對於早年被稱為『文化沙漠』的高雄人來講
能不用出國而親炙這些建築大師的風采
多花點錢也算是值的
君不見日本東京、大阪連蓋個地鐵站都要叫安藤忠雄出馬嗎?

我想夫人和老P應該不會知道台灣的政治人物是如何浪費人民的血汗錢
換個角度想
高捷的這些建築雖然浪費、不符合經濟效應
但好歹總算是留下個美好的事物
也讓我們高雄了有了個不輸台北人的幻想

我前一陣子恰好有機會看見去年某縣市的擴大內需預算編列的預算書(就是五百億的那次)
那種浪費、不必要、沒有建設性的編法(例如我看見某公墓的連外道路、某一條車流量甚少的縣道拓寬工程加路旁排水工程,天殺的不知道又要砍到多少樹、造成土石流)
每筆預算上百萬至上千萬的亂編,看不出施政的計畫,純粹只是殺預算
感覺好似將新台幣丟到水裏去
那種公共經費的用法才叫做浪費,而這正是台灣最近這幾年來不管藍綠都在做的事情

k2 發表於 February 22, 2009 04:23 PM

倫敦地鐵雖然髒亂
但是
這也不呈現了很倫敦的一面
搭地鐵的時候
我總是喜歡左顧右盼東張西望
看著不同的人上車下車
聊天
看書
打瞌睡
我倒是挺享受這個地鐵的文化

Grace 發表於 February 22, 2009 11:45 AM

倫敦的地鐵是有夠髒的,真搞不懂為什麼政府不禁止人們在車上車站中吃喝,有時我都怕隔壁的咖啡curry三明治灑到我身上了。有次還跟一位小姐建議要她把垃圾帶下車,但被罵髒話。
高鐵高捷的景觀藝術品我不予置評,但希望政府也有維護的預算,不要等幾年後又蒙上了灰塵了,類似蚊子館的命運。

Fin 發表於 February 22, 2009 09:16 AM

哎呀,拍謝,拍謝。
突然看到樓下某人的回應,笑了出來,只好又冒出頭開個玩笑。
您慢慢寫,慢慢迴響,下次我不笑出來就是了。

Diego 發表於 February 22, 2009 01:34 AM

下面這位客倌哪
別再催了啦
迴響也要催、文章也要催
已經在準備了啦
有點耐心~這裡的主人是龜咩

mrs.turtle 發表於 February 22, 2009 01:22 AM

嘿嘿嘿。。。
問到體重,您就躲著不出來回應啊?
原來還不只我一個有興趣,呵呵呵呵。。。
醜媳婦總要見公婆的,乖,快點出來,快。。。

還有啊,那個嘉義金字塔教堂,會不會有新的一篇問世啊?

Diego 發表於 February 22, 2009 12:54 AM

天哪,12小時,12個站點。扣掉開車買黑輪的時間,一個站頂多40分鐘鬼混。瞧你拍這麼多照片,能有多少時間仔細瀏覽風景?高雄人導遊不就只能在旁邊哈腰陪笑而已,一點都插不上嘴?啟稟夫人,您這是貴婦團嗎?

有一點你跟我的想法蠻像的:不就是個車站嘛,怎麼搞得像皇宮一樣豪華?
第一次到高鐵烏日站,我站在大廳內的廣告看板前注目良久。我不是因看板美女發呆,而是很納悶:一片廣告看板,有需要配一套不鏽鋼弧面造型大看板座嗎?
http://attach.mobile01.com/waypoint/mobile01-e83fbd1e69022aa85c8c124c8aef361a.jpg
廣告看板直接嵌入大理石牆面裡,也很氣派啊?

可是,如果你回台灣這段期間,從台中去台北,不坐高鐵,改到統聯台中朝馬總站搭車,你會很驚訝:「啊?不到一百元就可以去台北了喔?」

高鐵,不但打垮航空國內線,連國道汽車業都節節敗退。
我去台北,如果不直接開車去的話,我會從彰化開車到高鐵烏日站,停好車,轉搭高鐵去台北。高鐵車站氣派豪華;高鐵車廂小姐媲美空姐;高鐵速度快如閃電,還沒睡著,台北就到了。哈哈哈。

最近,政府德政,擴大內需:
我家門前的柏油馬路,原本好好的,莫名其妙地挖掉重鋪。
到台中逛車河,許多公園都圍起來,樹拔起,再重種;拆地磚,再重貼。

擴大內需,錢花了不少,我的生活好像沒啥變化:門前馬路過了一個月後,又和往常一樣。
我想:台中的公園重建,幾個月後,應該景象依舊,還是那付德性。

我終於慢慢能體諒高鐵了:它很花錢,但它讓我看到豪華,它也讓我懂得奢侈。
改天也要找個機會去看看高捷,至少它花錢讓我感受到有變化。
錢開落,看有到。呵呵。。。這樣像不像田僑仔?

Diego 發表於 February 21, 2009 11:23 AM

想知道 你胖了多少!哈哈

地址收到!!感謝感謝!

馬克思 發表於 February 21, 2009 11:14 AM

那兩邊漆黃色的colunm是很典型Richard Rogerd 的點子ㄟ

其實他在倫敦的millennium dome就是以這個黃色的culunm為架構
從夫人的照片看起萊
他似乎把他縮小放到台灣去了


Grace 發表於 February 21, 2009 10:36 AM

在我公司附近耶~ 哈~

7 point 發表於 February 21, 2009 10:32 AM

Richard Roger 都有餐一咖啊

他幫chanel4設計的那棟玻璃建築
真的是很特別ㄟ
不知道夫人再台灣看中央公園那站
有沒有很有fe

Grace 發表於 February 21, 2009 10:31 AM

打錯字
配醬油膏才對......

還有偶覺得高結票價好便宜
偶媽嫌太貴
加上高雄人家家戶戶都有機車或轎車
偶所知的高雄人
假設一戶5個人
至少有一部轎車~~~3台機車
加上腳踏車~~~
雖公車不發達
但即使高截開通
會去搭的還不是很多
加上點與點之間太遠
不像倫敦每一站銜接很方便
我自己搭的感想是學生+觀光客+機場來的旅客比較多
上班族很少
週一~五車廂很空
六日就很多人~~~而且都是來玩的年輕人~

鴨蜜瓜 發表於 February 21, 2009 03:13 AM

阿萬早上6點多到中午11點半是賣早餐
它的蛋餅好好吃
是用蔥花麵漿下去煎赤赤~配南部特有醬油糕
午後關店休息
下午4點多到晚上10點半是賣意麵
我從小在這吃大的
因為我就讀市場旁的三民國小
三民市場如偶家灶咖~~~

阿萬店裡有一隻店貓---肥肥乳牛老公貓
有時牠會從你腳邊挲過來喵喵叫~~~讓你摸摸爽
偶上次去吃~~~又漲價了
它最好吃的是乾意麵
配貢丸湯+滷蛋~~~是偶從小最愛

意麵羹偶從一碗20吃到現在~~~要40了吧?

偶家阿小花去年夏天來高雄
搭了高運~~~看了高鐵
他的疑惑跟夫人一樣
偶唯一能想到的就是高雄人喜歡裝大扮
什麼都要大~~~要漂亮啦~~~唉......

鴨蜜瓜 發表於 February 21, 2009 03:08 AM

不得不說我真是個慚愧的高雄人呀,
透過德朵夫人的介紹我才更了解這些美麗的景點耶!

話說到了三民市場呀,入口處的狀元糕也是一絕喔,
下次來跟團時在試試看囉!

Nora 發表於 February 21, 2009 02:23 AM

那個美麗島站的入口,怎麼那麼像東海大學的路思義教堂呀?@@

瑟熙樂 發表於 February 21, 2009 01:28 AM
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