August 29, 2009

【PT 35-42,43/50】愛爾蘭的北與南

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又,一趟千里迢迢的旅行,昨天晚上八點半,平安回到雪菲爾。

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愛爾蘭的旅行重點,都是墓園

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Guinness酒廠,是個極...精彩的參觀景點,最後還可以喝一杯酒廠鮮釀的黑麥酒

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Rock of Cashel

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北愛的UNESCO:Giant Gauseway

這幾天我們從北威爾斯的Holyhead開車直接上了渡輪,航行到愛爾蘭首都都柏林,在更靠近大西洋的另一個大島Ireland,逆時針繞了一圈,經過北愛爾蘭,再從愛爾蘭東南角的Rosslare港口回到南威爾斯的Permbroke,整整一大圈,車子的里程數是2337.7公里。

昨天,光是在英格蘭的高速公路休息站上,都有一股回到「現代」的強烈感受,愛爾蘭還真是個很難、很難形容的國家,跟我的想像有很大的落差,這幾天不斷在看古墓、墳墓、墓穴、遺址,赫然想起了現在是農曆七月,哈!還好這幾天運氣不錯,永遠被詛咒的愛爾蘭天氣,竟然大部分都是好天,搞得我們兩個好像從東南亞回來一樣的黑。

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UNESCO的墓穴

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Cliffs of Moher,第一次看到真正的大西洋,很嚇人的壯觀,大洋果然跟海峽有很大的差別

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愛爾蘭咖啡,就是美酒+咖啡,濃濃的威士忌酒香,很迷人

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位在Midleton的Jameson酒廠,是愛爾蘭最大的威士忌品牌,酒廠經營的很好,餐廳的餐點一級棒,用這裡的威士忌加上咖啡做出來的愛爾蘭咖啡,讚的哩

我以為的愛爾蘭是個遺世獨立、很美、很友善、很鄉村的國家,怎麼很努力的感受了好幾天,還是找不出讓人可以感動的個性和元素,連一向愛拍照的我們,都找不到太多想按快門的衝動。還有,一整路讓人不解的高物價,實在吃不消,北歐的高物價,換來的還有高質感的東西,所以可以忍受,愛爾蘭的高物價,實在就高得莫名其妙,有一天開車趕路到了Galway大學城,已經八點多,找不到什麼地方吃晚餐,想說那外帶達美樂披薩好了,一塊要價€22(新台幣1034元),是叫我怎麼吞得下去咧!?最後只好買了一小罐鮮奶,吃了自己帶的麥片,體驗一下當年的愛爾蘭大飢荒。(這就是為什麼本來訂好了機票和行程,後來全盤打亂的原因,因為都柏林租車是雪菲爾的四到五倍價格,而且是沒有冷氣的1.0小車,我們在這裡租到的還有1.6含冷氣的,所以放棄便宜機票,改訂昂貴船票,幫車子買了船票都還划算呀!)

終於知道19世紀中那一段愛爾蘭高達600多萬人的移民潮,是怎麼來的,為什麼現在在海外的愛爾蘭人會比在國內的愛爾蘭人還要多,這個地方真的真的很難生存下去吧!?因此,這個國家最大宗的遊客來自美國,都是一些回來尋根的移民後代。

這趟旅程最精彩的地方,除了自然景觀之外,就是三座酒廠,都柏林的Guinness,北愛的全世界最老的Bushmill威士忌酒廠,愛爾蘭最大的Jameson威士忌酒廠,愛爾蘭人經營酒廠的樣子,還真不像愛爾蘭人。很懷疑,多年前的愛爾蘭經濟奇蹟,可能真的是個奇蹟!?

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街道上最常見的景色,就是Bar外面的酒桶

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Waterford水晶工廠

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Jameson酒廠餐廳的Irish Stew(燉羊肉),超讚

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Irish Stew之外,愛爾蘭南部的另一個美味就是Seafood Chowder,吃完這一頓,開始對愛爾蘭改觀了

很弔詭的愛爾蘭和北愛的邊境,我們很想拍到類似英國的「Welcome to England」、「Welcome to Wales」、「Welcome to Scotland」這樣的標誌,看著地圖要過邊境前,拿起相機待命,結果兩次過邊境,都神不知鬼不覺,就過了,只出現了「時速從公里(愛爾蘭)變英里(北愛)」的交通號誌,只是在北愛邊境的小鎮,會有很多高高懸掛的英國米字旗和北愛旗,很有意思吧!雙方都刻意模糊邊境!?所以,證明從英國去愛爾蘭,果然是真的不需要簽證,不過,我們兩趟在威爾斯的渡輪港口,都是唯二的東方面孔,英國警察不得不攔下來檢查一下護照,但是,檢查的是英國簽證,他才不管你有沒有愛爾蘭簽證。(老實說,這個國家絕對不會有人想要偷渡去吧。)

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都柏林最熱鬧的Temple Bar

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很有味道的Irish High Cross,這個是Waterford水晶的產品

從上一趟的蘇格蘭,到這一趟的愛爾蘭和威爾斯,都是兩種語文並行的地區,兩趟旅程下來看路看得好……好辛苦,回到英格蘭的高速公路時,頓時覺得視覺好輕鬆。

這幾天是不是英格蘭也很高溫,回到家又一屋子霉味,等待洗衣機洗衣服,等到快睡著了……。收了超過三百封的垃圾郵件,有好消息、有壞消息,大家請多保重,待我好好的敘愛爾蘭吧,這個島上的兩個國家,還是很多值得書的。

今天西風狂吹,溫度降到13℃,一整個秋天的感覺,好蕭瑟。

晚餐前把剩下的行李,先搬到泰德山上的家寄放,家裡是真的空了吧,只剩下第三趟旅程的行李,明天早上,就要跟房東交屋。所以,這是最後一個晚上,待在有鎖街的破房子了,也還好我們要搬走了,樓上新來的房客,簡直是吵翻天,才24小時就吵得我神經衰弱。

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愛爾蘭的郵筒和電話亭造型跟英國一樣的,只是紅色換成了愛爾蘭綠,這一只是維多利亞女王年代的,這個國家仍舊有很多英國的影子

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回到威爾斯後,去了極西邊的St.David's Cathedral,雖然參觀過無數的大教堂,這一座還是非常的獨特

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卡地夫的威爾斯國會,精彩的建築空間和我很喜歡的阿尼椅子

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UNESCO的Ironbridge Gorge鐵橋峽

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愛爾蘭南邊的Cobh港口,是當年鐵達尼號最後一個停靠點

由 mrs.turtle 發表於 August 29, 2009 11:16 PM
迴響

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Sjcg123 發表於 April 19, 2017 03:47 PM

連房子都交回去了呀
這下子
夫人真的要離開了...
好捨不得呀

怎麼愛爾蘭的物價這麼的高呀
那可得真的要三思了
免得去到了那裡
餐餐都得要餓肚子

夫人的第三部曲應該已經開始了吧
期待夫人精彩的第三部曲
還有 天天都要好天氣

蓓爾小姐 發表於 September 5, 2009 09:58 AM

關於簽證, 我想那是最近才給予免簽的優惠
夫人跟老P先生都在英國生活多年了,
想必當初申請的都是長期的英簽
自然也沒有"無簽證"這種事囉 ^^

stella 發表於 September 3, 2009 04:19 AM


小龜真幸福!!

閒閒 發表於 September 1, 2009 04:32 PM

ms turtle, are you leaving england soon?
i'll miss your photographic blog,
hopefully it'll turn into a taiwan scenary blog soon. take care

evie 發表於 August 31, 2009 04:10 PM

讓我來猜猜,畢業旅行第三部曲是回台前順遊京都?:)

筱岑 發表於 August 31, 2009 11:01 AM

看到那张temple bar,还真是熟悉,不过却也遥远,离开了,也不觉得怀念的地方。对那个国家,如果实在有什么要怀念,或许就是夏天傍晚阳光下的草坪。

阿布 發表於 August 31, 2009 08:10 AM

果然你們的畢業旅行之ㄧ去了愛爾蘭啊
好像沒有想像中有意思啊
不過應該還是有許多可看可寫的吧~
這一趟旅程下來
應該累壞了
好好休息一下
還要出門不是嗎~
加油兼保重啊

維尼月 發表於 August 30, 2009 06:07 PM

呵呵,7月也刚去那边绕了一小圈,不过每有对墓地感兴趣,都是在海边。那个Bushmill酒厂还是有去的。的确如你所言,爱尔兰给人的印象比较奇怪。

平安回来就好。有空来我家坐坐!

Steven 發表於 August 30, 2009 02:47 PM

那個城堡好眼熟喔~~~
古墓也好酷~

coffee 發表於 August 30, 2009 01:38 PM

wow...沒想到去了這麼多地方
我夢幻的路線也是開車從Holyhead坐渡輪
不過那個不便宜吧...可以透露一下兩人一車要多少coco嗎?
如果有機會的話 我還想再去一次Holyhead
我很愛他的港嘴...很漂亮的曲線

您去Cobh的天氣真好 我那時候是個大陰天
不過小龜居然爬到他的手上XD

那個UNESCO的史前墳墓群本來我也想去
不過當時被太太veto掉......

Tony 發表於 August 30, 2009 11:09 AM

妳最近生活過得金價爽快的:又是打包,又是旅行.
不但鍛鍊體力,也訓練耐力(耐性?).
要脫離宅女生涯了嗎?

Diego 發表於 August 30, 2009 10:28 AM

我們從Holyhead進到Dublin時有海關上車一個一個檢查簽證
(那時候還要簽證)
可是從登內格爾進到北愛時就沒有了
我也覺得很奇怪~好像無國界似的~

acisni 發表於 August 30, 2009 10:12 AM

關於夫人提到,
進入愛爾蘭的時候,
被警察檢查簽證乙節,
想請問,英國及愛爾蘭不是都先後給台灣旅客免簽證的優惠?
所以不知他們究竟是要看那一個文件?是護照還是簽證?
謝謝!
末祝一切順利!

Ming-Lung 發表於 August 30, 2009 09:22 AM

哈囉夫人,欣賞妳的網誌已經有一段很長的時間了,一方面可以勾起當初在大不列顛唸書時的回憶,另一方面實在是被妳選景、取景的功力所吸引…
我本身也是攝影同好會的伙伴,但技術跟美感太差,希望你在回台灣以後,也可以繼續跟網友們分享照片,也滿足我們的「求知慾」囉…

vannance 發表於 August 30, 2009 06:13 AM

看來愛爾蘭還真不是個說去就可以馬上去的地方呢! 沒有很多co co 就只能看看blog, 過過乾癮吧.

TristaWu 發表於 August 30, 2009 03:44 AM

優呼呼~
搶到沙發囉!(多虧同時區的關係?)
看了夫人的照片,愛爾蘭有好多古墓,太棒了耶!
我最喜歡了^^
這幾年一定要計畫去一趟呵呵~
ps.明天見啦喔喝!

insomnia 發表於 August 29, 2009 11:28 PM
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