November 23, 2010

京紅葉

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因緣際會,搭上了京都的紅葉季節;
也因緣際會的,因為紅葉季太過熱門,幾乎訂不到旅館,只好選擇了京都朋友一年前就介紹給我,位於她家附近的民宿,讓我體驗了京味十足的木造小旅社。

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嵐山保津川

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清水寺

行前,我想像著「旅館最好能小小的,位於住宅區裡,讓我可以感受一下當地的生活節奏,離熱鬧的區位有點距離,每天出門得走一小段路,得搭上一段公車才能到某處……」,沒想到,這一切完全在大德寺附近這家小房子裡實現了。很佩服自己,從地鐵站一路走過來,沒有地址也沒有門牌,居然第一次就找到了位在小巷子的小巷子裡的旅店,這裡安靜到連夜晚使用吹風機,都深感罪惡,騎重機的住客,在大馬路就得熄火,用牽的把機車牽進巷子的巷子裡,某天清晨,隔壁家的狗兒用著很低鳴的哭嚎叫了幾聲,真的是個連狗狗都壓抑的國家呀。究竟是什麼樣的民族性、什麼樣的社會文化,能讓多數的人都願意守法、有禮、整齊、乾淨、尊重、不互相干擾。

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法然寺

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渡月橋

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落柿舍

這個季節的京都,氣候很宜人,乾乾冷冷的,不需要太厚重的衣服,也不像夏天的盆地氣候那般濕熱難耐。雖說紅葉季的觀光人潮很多(行前,京都朋友已經警告我,現在公車、馬路到處人擠人。她應該來台灣體驗一下,什麼叫做真正的人擠人呀!),感覺也仍有條有理,不會讓人想快速逃離(除了下午過後的清水寺周遭)。這是個很觀光的城市,每年有兩千萬人次的國內外遊客進進出出,如何能維持得有條不紊,甚至不讓人覺得太過商業化(除了下午過後的清水寺周遭,中午前還是非常OK的),不像我們的九份、日月潭、墾丁,幾乎是讓人不願再多靠近的地方了。

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天龍寺

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從清水寺看京都

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從常寂光寺看京都,夕陽餘暉讓山頭的紅葉更多彩

這趟旅程,步調非常的悠閒,沒有很努力的去趕那些紅葉名景名寺,每天早上先找家像是進進堂或INODA COFFEE的早餐,慢條斯理的飽餐一頓之後,才開始一天的行程。又以龜速的步伐賞景拍照,所以,一整天下來,能走上兩三個景點,也算是不錯了。在京都,其實也真沒辦法趕行程,在歐洲,可能可以在某個大教堂、大廣場、大皇宮前,來張紀念照,也算是到此一遊了,京都可沒辦法這樣,名寺總是深藏不漏,就連走到了門前,都還無法見到,非得再進入庭園裡迂迴曲折的走了許久,才能見到廬山真面目,這也算是東西方的最大不同吧。

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清水寺

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南禪寺,也是夕陽餘暉

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清水寺

六天下來,其實也走看了不少地方,從東邊的東山看京都,也從西邊的嵐山看京都,但最讓人感受到旅行的FU的所在,不在南禪寺、不在銀閣寺、更不在清水寺,這些大名鼎鼎的景,頓時間都成了旅途中的配角,當然一部好戲裡,沒有這些精彩的配角也是不能圓滿的。而這趟旅途的主角,出現在第五天鴨川畔的野餐,那天早上一路從清幽的下鴨神社、糺の森、河合神社走下來,經過了葵橋,時間已過正午,在附近的市場買了兩份壽司,又巧遇一家大排長龍的生菓子店,跟著排隊買了三顆不同口味的,然後,又走回賀茂川畔,中午溫暖的陽光、藍天,遠山七彩繽紛的秋葉,清澈見底的賀茂川、高野川匯流而成的鴨川,野餐散步遛狗的當地人,還有溪中十幾隻巨石龜,我們就坐在兩川匯流之處的溪畔,對岸還有名奇女子彈奏著三弦,那一刻,我在筆記本裡記下了「旅行,要找的就是這一份時間與空間的感受吧!是一份在日常生活中無法得到的心靈平靜與舒暢,就在這鴨川畔。」

或許,這趟旅程也是因為投宿的小旅店和區位,讓我對京都有了不同的觀感,如果讓我住在京都驛或市中心周遭,那種生活味的感受和體會,可能就截然不同了。

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下鴨神社

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清水寺

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常寂光寺

最後一晚,從安靜寬敞效率自律的關西機場,回到了吵雜擁擠緩慢瘋狂的桃園機場,機場外接機的混亂交通,對比起這幾天有條有理的京都,冷冷的空氣也變成了濕濕熱熱,這一切,好像又從天上回到了塵世,真的,偶爾得像這樣出去透透氣,走了六天,感覺身上的積油都燃燒光了,心裡的廢氣也都吐光了。

旅行,真好!

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天龍寺

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天龍寺

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永觀堂

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哲學之道

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銀閣寺

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常寂光寺

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天龍寺

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小烏龜,終於又可以出門了!

由 mrs.turtle 發表於 November 23, 2010 11:11 AM
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leilei3915 發表於 May 14, 2018 02:13 PM

chenxiao,
此刻一定更美!
真希望自己現在就在那兒

mrs.turtle 發表於 December 2, 2011 10:56 PM

多么美好的回忆、又带我走进我曾旅游过的梦幻般的画面中。

chenxiao 發表於 December 1, 2011 02:59 PM

維尼月,
一定一定要選個紅葉季節去一趟
雖然這次沒真正看見火紅的樣子(太早去了)
不過紅紅黃黃綠綠的京都
真的是太迷人啦

mrs.turtle 發表於 November 29, 2010 06:34 PM

夫人
你的京都也拍的太好看了吧
我去了三趟京都都沒看到紅葉(殘念啊)
最後看到小綠龜
我也笑了
真的很久沒看到他
想當初做書時
在你們眾多照片中不停看到他~
近兩年沒做你們的書
也少看到他了
真的
有一種熟悉感
呵~

維尼月 發表於 November 27, 2010 01:28 AM

趴趴走,
自己看照片都覺得,我真的剛走過這兒嗎?!

mrs.turtle 發表於 November 26, 2010 11:58 AM

這種楓紅美景真漂亮,讓人奇摩子很舒坦。

趴趴走 發表於 November 25, 2010 02:51 PM

賴沛丞,
當天來回~這樣太瘋狂吧
福壽山農場粉遙遠耶!
不過現在應該也很美~期待你的照片啦

zerostart,
快點來去呀!
這個季節旅行最舒服了

mrs.turtle 發表於 November 25, 2010 02:21 PM

最想去的2个地方
台湾和日本~~

zerostart 發表於 November 25, 2010 11:26 AM

既然沒法去日本,有衝動想來個武陵&福壽山壹當天來回

賴沛丞 發表於 November 25, 2010 11:02 AM

vicky,
我一直在想京阪神五天四夜
到底要怎麼排行程啊
旅行社真的好神~
因為六天的"純京都"我大概只走了千分之一吧~哈哈

Adonis,
3Q3Q

ErhuDave,
七點太早啦~八點就OK
請問明天是去Edale還是去Longshaw呢
ps.您還看真仔細呀,那是跟P妹借來錄影用的啦,因為還沒買5D還是7D呀~應該去跟你借喔!

mrs.turtle 發表於 November 25, 2010 12:37 AM

等等!
500d?
黨席花辛A歹誌?

ErhuDave 發表於 November 24, 2010 08:31 PM

夫人請注意:

雪菲爾明天開始下雪!!!
我早上七點在路口接妳
準備上路吧

ErhuDave 發表於 November 24, 2010 08:22 PM

漂亮!

Adonis 發表於 November 23, 2010 11:33 PM

好美哦~~~也好懷念!
六年前是跟團去的,
真的沒有那份悠閒感,
也少了份在地生活的FU~

vicky 發表於 November 23, 2010 09:20 PM

賴沛丞,
是啊~我很驚訝京都周圍山頭的顏色居然是這麼美呀!

fanny,
改篇來介紹一下小旅社好了~哈
不過這絕對不適合貴婦人妳啦!
你們出門都住五星等級的
這算是青年旅館耶

關西機場很近(妳應該也常飛吧)
四天假就可以去走走了
這個季節真的有讚~

James,
是啊~彩色的山頭好特別!

its27,
京都,或者說日本
適合近觀、也適合細看
絕對能看出箇中的奧妙

Jade,
哈~新聞報導的可信度極低
紅葉沒有形容的那麼神啦
除了山邊的之外
市區的一片綠意盎然呀

mrs.turtle 發表於 November 23, 2010 05:06 PM

哇!! 美!! 就這樣悄悄的溜去日本喔~~ 哈哈
新聞說今年因為下熱冬冷的日本,所以楓葉特紅
好漂亮喔~~~

Jade 發表於 November 23, 2010 03:44 PM

我去過的京都也是十一月,也是小民宿,所以對於夫人的描述
頗有同感~京都迷人的地方真的不在大廟而是那種在地風情帶有的濃濃京都味,可謂處處皆風景啊~看著夫人的照片,讓人又再度回想起這個好美的城市~

its27 發表於 November 23, 2010 03:27 PM

彩色的嵐山真不錯

James 發表於 November 23, 2010 03:27 PM

我也同樣問了跟小猴子一樣的問題
哪間民宿呢?
也或許是深入民間
所以才好想知道
至少去玩時有更多的選擇嘛~

照片拍得真美
尤其是著和服女在楓樹下拍照還有在長廊小憩喝茶的照片
超有fu滴
得讓我都想要去那邊走走了~

fanny 發表於 November 23, 2010 03:14 PM

純黃和鮮紅的葉子很美,紅黃橘綠多色調的山林更漂亮

賴沛丞 發表於 November 23, 2010 02:19 PM

Yen,
哈哈~沒想到看的人也會悶喔
那我要勤快一點出去玩

小龜,
窘了~
小旅店其實是非常非常basic
只是覺得那裡給我的FU實在太讚了
推薦這種給人住
我怕會被OOXX捏
改天我寫一篇介紹好了

久美子小姐,
確實是個會讓人懷念的地方呀

Bellona,
是啊~這裡適合慢慢品味
才能咀嚼出真正的京味
糟糕~我真的把小旅社形容得太好了
其實應該算是一家類青年旅館的民宿而已呀

Fin,
哈哈~小烏龜真的很久沒現身了
哇~驚天動地的下雪
那不知道是什麼樣的景象
我也好想感受一下~
在英國七年多好像都沒遇見過

mrs.turtle 發表於 November 23, 2010 02:12 PM

今天女兒才在說,好久沒看到Turtle的照片了。
我們現在正在驚天動地地下雪,楓紅已經正式結束了。

Fin 發表於 November 23, 2010 01:28 PM

京都也是我念念不忘的地方啊!
我也想要那家小旅社的資訊
希望有日能去朝聖一下

京都的優美與嫻靜
就像照片中那兩位穿著和服的少女#11
要慢慢品酌,而不是大口暢飲迷醉

在日本旅行真的是讓人愉快的經驗啊!(除了東京)
無怪乎我大姊每年都要去朝聖兩次
百玩不厭乎!
很喜歡你拍的#1, #5, #11, #24 那幾張

Bellona 發表於 November 23, 2010 01:16 PM

真懷念阿~

久美子小姐 發表於 November 23, 2010 01:07 PM

我好羨慕小烏龜喔
可以mail給我小旅社的資訊,讓我也可以因緣際會的去朝聖一下嗎?
謝謝^^

小龜 發表於 November 23, 2010 12:02 PM

看到夫人又開始旅行了,
真好....
小烏龜應該悶壞了。
好久沒看到你旅行的照片的我,也悶壞了...

Yen 發表於 November 23, 2010 11:38 AM
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