April 05, 2011

轉載:拜訪濕地-藝文界大城濕地紀行

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那天早上,原本走在南下的M1,接近成功嶺路段,車陣已經開始回堵,不趕路的我們從王田交流道溜下來,轉往西濱快速公路。彰化路段的西濱還沒全線通車,又從鹿港溜下來,轉往台17。接近王功時,沿途的十字路口全是站崗的警察,該是甚麼重要人物又要來了,聽了警廣才知道是偉大的總統。記得去年來王功,台17沿途全是反國光石化的黑色旗幟,這會兒都不見了。
原來,那天中午是反國光石化的餐會在福海宮舉辦,成千上萬的鄉民聚集在廟前廣場,等著總統來說分明,交通指揮下,我們快速通過,繼續南行。
重度污染的石化工業,已經摧毀了雲林的海濱,帶來了環境污染和居民健康的危害,彰化看來也將不保,我們連自己這一代的環境和健康都照顧不了,還想要留下甚麼樣的土地給後代子孫。就像日本核災的可怕後果已經擺在眼前,還是無法造成任何的警惕和反省,我們也真的夠麻木了。
那天下午,我們先回了朴子的家,傍晚又走訪了雲林口湖鄉海濱的湖口村,也去了嘉義東石的鰲鼓溼地,最後在東石的新結庄看了沒有餘暉的夕陽。
隔天,在報上副刊看到了一篇文章,如果你/妳也有那麼一點點在乎這塊我們生活的土地,不妨一讀。

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轉載:拜訪濕地 --藝文界大城濕地紀行

張鐵志@自由時報 2011-04-04

多麼希望,我的詩句

可以鑄造成子彈

射穿貪得無厭的腦袋

或者冶煉成刀劍

刺入私欲不斷膨脹的胸膛

但我不能。我只能忍抑又忍抑

寫一首哀傷而無用的詩

吞下無比焦慮與悲憤

──吳晟

去年秋天,吳晟老師在立法院的藝文界反國光石化記者會上朗讀了這首〈只能為你寫一首詩〉。那天,許多作家、導演、音樂人都到場:李昂、鴻鴻、吳明益、劉克襄、林正盛、陳明章、蔡詩萍等多人(我也在場)。這些出席者之外,他們也帶來了藝文界數百人的連署。

而後,吳晟與吳明益兩位作家編纂了一本書《溼地‧石化‧島嶼想像》,收入了相關的詩與歌,還有學者的嚴謹論述與分析。

而後,在一次與吳晟老師的碰面中,我們討論到既然有這麼多藝文界支持,應該可以有更多的創作出來。這場運動要有理性的論述分析,也要有更多感性的書寫與描繪,而這些創作必須來自真實的感受與感動。

我們為何不邀請更多人實際上去彰化腳踩那片濕地,感受大地的律動呢?

畢竟,很多人在理念上支持台灣不應該繼續發展高耗能、高污染的石化產業,不應該讓龐大的石化巨獸污染我們的天空、我們的食物,應該要保護瀕臨絕種的白海豚。然而,理念歸理念,到底那片被形容為蘊含生命力的濕地長得什麼樣子?

於是由吳晟老師召集,《文訊》雜誌協助聯繫作家,賴和基金會和青平台基金會提供行政資源,彰化環保聯盟幫忙在地導覽,加上吳明益和我,開始組織了第一次的作家行。

一開始多少有些忐忑不安。我們希望邀請許多重量級作家,尤其是過去與社會運動關係比較遠的,如此才能更有震撼力,但這樣的作家又未必願意參與。

但一個個出現的名字讓我們興奮不已:愛亞、心岱、陳義芝、楊澤、向陽、季季、小野、古蒙仁、陳若曦、汪其楣、顏艾琳等數十位資深作家。3月6日當天集合時,大家對於這一場藝文界的春遊都很興奮;一位前輩說,這個陣容彷彿是某資深作家的喪禮。

我們也籌畫了3月19日的第二波,由鴻鴻、吳志寧和我三人聯名發起邀請,目標是不同創作領域中比較年輕的創作者,包括電影、音樂和文學等,最後有五、六十位出席。(鄭愁予先生當天下午從金門飛來與我們會合。)

這批文化隊伍早晨從台北出發,第一站是到彰化王功看黑白相間的燈塔、迷人的海岸,吃王功著名的蚵仔大餐。

彰化地區是台灣重要的蔬果肉品產地:水稻量是全國第一,蔬菜量全國第二,豬肉、雞蛋產量占全國四成以上;台灣每十顆文蛤就有八顆來自濁水溪口。這裡是台灣的穀倉,台灣的魚米之鄉。

尤其,彰化西岸的養蚵歷史已經有三百年,形成一個複雜的蚵經濟鏈,產業鏈涉及幾十萬人。

國光石化一旦建造起來,這個糧倉將會崩塌,人們深愛的蚵仔煎將會被染黑。

飯後,我們前往目標:濁水溪口北岸的大城濕地──這裡,就是國光石化預定地。

什麼是濕地?濕地是長時間呈潮濕或浸水狀態的土地,不論是長草還是長樹林,不論是人工還是天然,不論是河邊湖邊或是海邊。濕地是地球上生物多樣性及生產力最高的生態系統之一,且具有重要的碳吸納能力。

而大城濕地是台灣僅存最後一段自然的泥質潮間灘地。

中華民國行政院於1984年2月依「台灣沿海地區自然環境保護計畫」,將彰化縣沿海規畫為彰雲嘉沿海保護區的一部分,大城濕地亦為保護區中的一部分;而在1995年又將其規畫為台灣海岸地區環境敏感地帶保護區示範規畫中的彰化縣/雲林縣濁水溪口生態敏感區。

農委會的網站上說:「大城濕地為台灣重要野鳥棲地之一,共記錄有89種鳥種。其中以珍稀的黑嘴鷗最受人注目,估計此區約有100隻黑嘴鷗在此活動。此地亦有許多其他保育鳥種發現紀錄,如唐白鷺、遊隼、小燕鷗、紅尾伯勞、喜鵲等,另外,也曾有62隻鳳頭潛鴨的紀錄。」此外,這裡是中華白海豚的棲息地,更是彰化沿海養殖牡蠣、文蛤產業的主要基地。

但這些都只是文字資料。到了現場,我們才真正體會到什麼叫做泥質潮間濕地。

第一次資深作家的行程,因為潮汐的關係,作家們只能在岸邊看海岸的無限美好,以及陽光下閃閃發亮的濕地。在這個廣大的潮間帶泥地上,有許多掛著一串串蚵仔的樁,這是所謂的「平掛式養殖法」。

為了將蚵仔從海中運到陸地上,蚵農是用牛車或者自行組裝的拼裝鐵牛車來載運。尤芳苑普天宮外的番挖聚落,至今還有二十六隻專門可以載蚵的黃牛。

而這兩次,大家都見到了號稱「牛媽媽」的謝素阿嬤。阿嬤賣著自製的好吃花生,聊起他們的生活,並且質疑為何要把國光石化蓋在此。

我站在芳苑海堤

瞭望萬頃的泥灘濕地

糯米粉般細黏的黑泥來自

濁水溪的孕育

潮水定時逡巡,安撫

萬頃的泥灘濕地來自

天地所賜予,由日神和月神共同守護

海浪離岸六公里

王功在北,大城在南

共擁肥沃無邊的濕地

──陳義芝

第二次,我們終於有機會坐上蚵農的鐵牛車(其實是站著,每車約可以站上十人),緩緩地從芳苑普天宮出發,穿越老社區中古樸的小巷老屋,到了海邊。接著,車子搖晃著進入在泥灘濕地中間的一條路,往海中開去。

當看似路到盡頭,前面就是海水時,鐵牛車竟無懼地行入海中,讓所有人驚呼。當然,水位不高,而其實路的兩邊都插著蚵架,讓蚵農可以判斷海水的高度。

鐵牛車在退潮的海中走了約六公里。這六公里的範圍就是所謂的潮間帶。

我們在這條隱形的路的盡頭下了車,海水約到腳踝之處。回頭看去,海岸距離我們如此遙遠,我們彷彿被空降在這茫茫之海中。大夥興奮地在水中走動、照相,品嘗蚵農朋友準備的生蚵和哇沙米。

幾位蚵農在我們旁邊工作,更遠些,我見到一個孤單的身影在大海中彎腰採蚵。

對他們來說,這是每天的辛勞,是生命的汗水。但我們則驚訝於如此魔幻的海中場景,且感歎於彰化環盟理事長蔡嘉陽所說的海岸環境、產業經濟和自然生態的密切結合。許多人興奮地說,這絕對是世界級的生態觀光體驗:讓人們來海中和蚵農採蚵,食用最新鮮的生蚵 。

瞭望萬頃的泥灘濕地

我站在芳苑海堤,往南望是大城

再南是已遭六輕侵凌的麥寮

高聳的煙囪噴吐著芳香烴

輕油裂解無饜地

汲吸著濁水溪

鍋爐燃燒,日夜網羅著百姓

以灰黑的懸浮微粒

以濃濁的二氧化碳

以廉價施捨的補償金

以無人能解答的問題

以謊言

──陳義芝

不遠之處,濁水溪口的南岸,就是六輕。當年,他們也說六輕有最高級的環保措施,不會造成公害。但幾年來,六輕不但嚴重污染空氣與海水,造成附近居民罹癌率大幅提升,更不斷發生工安問題。

若國光石化一旦建成,台灣的生命之河濁水溪將會被南北的石化廠活生生地勒死。是什麼樣的國家會犯下如此殘忍的謀殺?

作家林文義說,雲林六輕廠,讓西部海岸線整天灰濛濛,木麻黃也枯黃殆盡,「實在不應該再蓋國光石化」。

另一個作家問說,可是,台灣還有許多人會認為,這些生物多樣性又怎麼樣?候鳥、白海豚、招潮蟹這些生物,難道比不上經濟發展重要?

我說,所以,我們就讓一座座冰冷灰白的工廠鎮壓那些黑嘴鷗,占領那些美麗的濕地,驅趕那些一世居住於此的蚵農,讓台灣的海岸成為樂隊拷秋勤形容的「灰色海岸線」嗎?其實,這個濕地的命運,不正是這個島嶼命運的象徵嗎?一旦我們放棄了這片濕地,就表示人們不在乎那些生機蓬勃的生命,而讓島嶼成為一個只剩下煙囪、金錢與GDP的無生命島嶼。

如果這就是他們要的。

文章來源:自由時報 2011-04-04 http://www.libertytimes.com.tw/2011/new/apr/4/today-article1.htm

延伸閱讀:《溼地‧石化‧島嶼想像》

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由 mrs.turtle 發表於 April 5, 2011 03:06 PM
迴響

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lzm5.19sad78wqe45645gfdg

lzm 發表於 May 19, 2017 06:31 PM

chair,
我相信自然界的生物們是最堅強的
看看在災區裡綻放的櫻花樹
好強烈的對比

mrs.turtle 發表於 April 10, 2011 05:05 PM

但願小生物能夠堅強的活下去
直到我們嶄露頭角,
為他們爭取更好的環境生存權
說起來充滿著無奈= =

農夫、漁夫之地位能夠國外受尊重,
那麼我們回家就更名言順了...

chair 發表於 April 8, 2011 09:08 PM

chair,
說得好啊
而且還帶著希望

也不能說我們是最沒能力作主的一群啦
因為再過個十年就自然會有世代交替
如果有能力的人
就會進入那個能作主的角色裡
不過有能力的人通常很早就會嶄露頭角
現在好像也來不及了~哈哈

我覺得能回鄉服務
不管做甚麼
都是一件最棒最有價值的事情
不過回鄉這個定義是甚麼呢
如果你住國外,回鄉就是回台灣
如果你住花蓮,回鄉就是回東勢
差別也是很大的

mrs.turtle 發表於 April 6, 2011 03:03 PM

前兩天,台灣農村陣線的團隊也來拜訪東勢,
經過話家常後,
對於我們的生活想規劃的年代(六七八年級生),
卻是最沒能力作主的那一群,
要權勢、地位,我們都敵不過目前的在位者,說起來真是悲憤...
不過,
在這群熱血青年身上,不再是草莓族
是一群關心土地、台灣的份子,
我們走回農村、故鄉,只希望能為這塊土地盡一份心
在這群七年級生的身上,看見希望!

chair 發表於 April 6, 2011 09:18 AM

Keatsli,
我知道在乎的人總是很難平心靜氣的看待這些

不過絕不能輕言放棄屬於自己能掌握的
完成學位固然不是一件多偉大的事
但是能完整的結束它也是一種對自己的肯定和責任
人能做的事有限
人的能力也有限
人的生命更有限
再下一個十年
妳想的事情、妳評斷事務的標準可能也會有所不同
現在還是快快結束那惱人的論文為先哪
加油啊~~~

mrs.turtle 發表於 April 6, 2011 06:55 AM

Dear 夫人,

過去一年的煎熬是在於,想放棄掉學位。因為那比不上自己的故鄉重要,唱著「黃昏的故鄉」想念故鄉的黃昏,在東部煎熬又有「東發條款」。(沒有日出也沒有黃昏的未來~~~)
氣憤著政府老是想偷懶地把土地是要全給財團開發,才能有未來嗎?

Keatsli 發表於 April 5, 2011 03:48 PM
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