July 17, 2011

10年後的金門

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10年了,沒有拿國民身分證搭國內線班機的經驗,好奇妙的FU。

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(這位是剛抽到金馬獎的齊小兵)

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這是我第六次踏上浯州,第一次去給當時的男朋友眷探、第二次是研究所畢業旅行、第三次和學姊去做野鳥調查、第四次去參加大學同學的傳統婚禮、第五次則是小三通時的雜誌採訪。金門對我來說,不算是個陌生的島嶼,但這一次,卻讓我覺得去了一個全新的地方,或許我的心沒有跟著這十年的轉變而變,一時還無法適應它被整形外科動過手術後的新容顏。

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那一天晚上,聽了一群台灣去的建築系老師們談論著金門發展的種種,其實我心中仍是滿滿的疑惑,金門的未來,難道就給這些外來的大家談談就算嗎?金門人這些年來,每天面對著對岸廈門的繁華高樓與燈火,對比著自己日漸沒落凋零的傳統聚落,縣政府急於向對岸靠攏,有能力出點意見的人也急於分一杯羹,懸在廈門灣裡的島民正漸漸失去了自我的定位。

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翻看著十年前小三通的舊報導,當年那些被討論的問題,到現在似乎仍舊是問題。幾百年來尷尬的地理和歷史,給了它許多的考驗和磨難,攤開這個世代的地圖一看,它屬於台灣,卻幾十年來孤懸在廈門灣裡,兩岸通了之後,其實它也還是尷尬,因為都已經大三通了,很多事情又可以直接跳過它。金門的地位,一直就是這樣的宿命,但其實也是一種機會,如果沒能抓住那個剛剛好的timing,就又被洪流給淹沒了。

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我們家這位金門退役老兵,想像著當年當兵時的十萬大軍,聽說現在裁撤到僅剩三千少兵,島上依賴著軍人維生的生意全都跟著歇業,路上連要見到穿軍服的軍人,機會都不高。以前很想拍一些圓環上的崗哨亭,還曾被拿著機槍、大聲吹哨喝止,現在那些崗哨亭不僅沒人站哨,還被綁上了各種彩色的廣告旗幟。

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金門,很可惜了它的那些軍事設施,那可以是它的一項特色,卻在十年內被迅速的遺棄。老P特地繞去他服役的東坑先鋒堡營區回顧,營區周遭被粗暴地用鐵皮隨意圍著,破敗的景象讓人唏噓,營區對門的胖妞雜貨店早已歇業,在大雨中看見胖妞的媽媽胖媽坐在鐵皮屋簷下看雨發呆,也看著我們這輛陌生的租車,行蹤鬼祟的探頭探腦。

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現在,想體驗金門的軍事設施,大概只有慈堤海岸邊那幾部「假裝」的坦克。政治是很可怕的東西,那個對峙的年代,應該有很多金門人只是搭船去廈門辦個事情,然後就永遠回不來了。接著,島民被數百萬的砲彈無情的轟過,過著躲防空洞的生活,而國軍冒著生命危險在前線抵禦共軍,捍衛著台灣。現在,歷史又要重寫了,過去的敵人全都上岸來參觀這些抵禦他們的各項軍事設施,那些正在服役的軍人,心中的假想敵到底是誰呢?這段歷史到底該怎麼寫才好?

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金門的美,除了海岸線的自然景觀之外,就在那些傳統聚落中,這些年來在國家公園的大整頓中(不,應該說是拆掉重建中),呈現出另一種全新的樣貌。雖然任其荒廢,固然不行,但像這般的整容過當,似乎也不妥。這個國家公園好喜歡在重要景點上,立上一根根粗大的招牌,告訴客人說這是某某洋樓、那是某某古厝…。更別說那些全被翻新過的古宅民宿,將頹圮的古厝整修成民宿,立意絕對是好的,但看到一棟棟在不同聚落中都長得一模一樣的全新古厝,也覺得很詭譎。我們第一晚住在曾經浴血籤敵的林厝,往後三晚則落腳水頭,水頭幾乎成了民宿村,後來去了鄰近的珠山,也幾乎整個村子都被翻過來了,正大規模的拆除重建,我們已經來不及看到它最後的樣子,走在四處都是工地的聚落裡,還以為自己來到了一個即將開幕的民俗文化村。

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甚至是金門的風獅爺,為了給遊客看,一整尊換成新穎的,或者把它原本周圍的農田給填平了、鋪上平整的水泥地,好讓大家很容易就可以開車抵達。這一切,都讓停留在十年前的我來不及適應。還好,還好,還有金東。遊人不常踏進﹑公家機關還來不及摧殘的小村子,還保有原始樸拙的風獅爺與聚落,這趟旅程幾乎是風獅爺帶著我們看金門的,為了找尋風獅爺,我們深入了原本不在旅程中的小村莊,村子裡那些還未被清除的反共抗俄標語也還看得到,在金西的幾乎都被刻意磨平了,說是被客人看見了不好,真的好可惜,客人想看的就是這些啊。

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但,這些是非金門人的我,一種自私的想望,我們想在那裏看到一種台灣社會早已消失了的傳統聚落和原鄉風貌。走過許多的歐洲中世紀古城小鎮,千年來,他們也因為歷史上的人為爭戰,古老的建築也是經過一再整修翻新重建,但他們有個信念,就是要留下它,也成就了今天我們能看到的美麗古城和歐洲人文。看過了幾十個歐洲的世界文化遺產,如果我們也能加入,金門島絕對當之無愧,所以,我還是私心的期待,金門,如果能像時空膠囊那樣,讓後來的人還能繼續見到這樣的原鄉風景,該有多好啊。

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由 mrs.turtle 發表於 July 17, 2011 01:05 AM
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20170523caihuali

20170523caihuali 發表於 May 23, 2017 03:20 PM

北國,
回頭比對十年前的照片
味道真的流失很多了呀

mrs.turtle 發表於 August 25, 2011 02:58 PM

被妳拍得味道十足啊!

北國 發表於 August 25, 2011 06:51 AM

Fin,
所以你們搭國內先班機不需要證件嗎?

mrs.turtle 發表於 August 20, 2011 11:48 AM

對那句"沒有拿國民身份證搭國內班機"感觸深,
跟女兒去了趟德州,臨行前決定這次不要拿護照旅行,
旅行沒有護照在身上,總覺得怪怪的。

Fin 發表於 August 19, 2011 01:12 AM

Su,
這個社會的病態或許不是冷漠
而是沒有良心哪~

mrs.turtle 發表於 August 17, 2011 11:59 PM

期許夫人的新書除了美麗的風景
更有深刻的想法
我想,這個社會也許並不冷漠
只是需要引導

Su 發表於 August 16, 2011 04:41 PM

majestty3,
嗯~嗯~

ILA,
真的是可惜了這個因為時空而保存下來的小島
沒想到一瞬間十年他就完全走樣了
的確~政府的相關單位責任最大
沒有把一個好的方向提供給人民
任其發展,只看見眼前的利益
甚至還鼓吹炒作房價
實在要不得呀

mrs.turtle 發表於 August 9, 2011 09:48 AM

金門的營造商拼了命去"上課"然後搶古蹟來修,無奈的是廠商對於古蹟沒有想法,就是把它修"完整"就對了,更可悲的是國家公園或是文化局也都是抱持一樣的態度,廠商想賺錢,以工程的觀點來看也真的都做的不錯,整齊漂亮,細節也乾乾淨淨的,但是就是少了感覺

主事者、執行者對於古蹟的觀點僅只於此,這種狀況出現也是無可奈何的

對他們來說,這事情就是「吸引觀光客,然後賺錢」,對於古蹟一點情感也沒有,然而每個崗位的人又是如此的"盡忠職守"

至於戰地文化這一塊領域,因為牽扯到軍方,事情就更難以掌握了

整體人文教育沒有提昇,這類事情只會不斷地重演,可惜了金門這塊寶地

P.s 我是建築人,在金門當工程兵,10月初要退伍了...

ILA 發表於 August 8, 2011 04:18 PM

hogwarts,
生活上的日常風景
其實最耐看的
我也喜歡這些小風景

Linda,
真的~
這十年的改變實在沒辦法用文字來形容它的巨變
而且最根本的連人心都變了
看看生意人做生意的沒良心就知道了

雖然這個電腦、網路普及的年代
全世界都在變
但是太急躁的大躍進
不一定是好事啊

mrs.turtle 發表於 August 3, 2011 10:04 AM

每每看夫人的文字和影像,心中總是泛起陣陣漣漪。 10年,說長不長的時間,對台灣而言是改變頗多的10年,猶記起10年前開著小車試著用319鄉向前行的方式,再次體會這片土地,然而十年過去了,再次走上同樣的旅程時,卻有無限的感慨和近鄉情卻的情緒。接下來的十年會如何呢?考驗著這片土地的人民啊~~

Linda 發表於 August 2, 2011 12:51 AM

好喜欢这些照片!平常看起来很一般的事物在照片里都别有风味。

hogwarts 發表於 July 30, 2011 12:34 PM

Bellona,
謝謝同學的稱讚啊~

台灣的社會從我們唸書的年代到現在
好像都沒啥改變
當時老師們和學生討論的議題
到現在也還是一樣的問題
也就是我們的社會根本還是沒有改變
沒有因為大家富足了一些而向上提升一點點
很多現象甚至是倒退
台灣也不乏大陸江南那樣的情況
近年來很多整修後開放的所謂古蹟
其實都是"新建"的古蹟
真不知道意義何在啊

GFWEI,
我才在想S90實在不敷使用了呀~哈哈

你太言重了啦
我們只是多玩了一些地方
看到別人的好
回頭發現其實自己也不差
但怎麼老是這樣糟蹋了自己的資質
很可惜啊
只要多一些人去關心
相信還是有機會的
我發現這個社會出奇的冷漠
不是說人情的冷漠
而是對於社會議題的冷漠
只要一觸及某個有爭議的問題
大家全都立刻噤聲
到底是怎麼回事呀

mrs.turtle 發表於 July 26, 2011 12:00 PM

夫人的照片拍得好, 漸漸看不出相機的影子了.
如果我說夫人算是見過世面的(用心觀察過歐洲國家永續經營的發展概念),真希望有一天能看到夫人當仁不讓將你(和老P)的影響力轉化為政策決定的力量. 大家都熱愛這個島嶼, 但我們需要有見識的人告訴我們該怎麼做. 今天我們都還年輕,但當哪天國家需要我們的時候,我們期許自己到時候有能力站出來,不管是在哪個崗位上. 加油!獻上誠摯的支持!

GFWEI 發表於 July 25, 2011 05:39 AM

齊媽,
還好你們也在得月樓看到成鳥一隻
真是長得超口愛的一種鳥啊

威,
最近正在看一本書
書名是"誰說經濟一定要成長"
還蠻有意思的

米蘇,
妳看見了更早幾年的金門
一定更多的原滋原味
不是金門人的我們
都自私的想要它能留在那個年代
但是歷史、古蹟、懷舊情感似乎都比我們感受到的要流洩的更迅速

mrs.turtle 發表於 July 20, 2011 07:33 PM

1995年替老師做田野建築測繪,在金門住了半個多月。天光亮起就背著相機和紙筆,流轉在珠山、林厝、 水頭和瓊林的老宅子窄巷間。那時已經開始談金門的未來,但戰地民居氛圍仍然凝結在舊日時代。望月樓裡散了一地的磚瓦,走進宅子裡嘎嘎作響,在夏日靜默的午后顯得異常地響。

那時我與另一位女同學走在市街上,兩人總是被阿兵哥們的目光灼得發窘…

金門啊,再也回不去了。

米蘇 發表於 July 20, 2011 06:17 PM

相同的感觸,粉想金門繼續保有原貌及景觀,但....現代人所想的是如何都市畫及創造經濟價值,似乎忘了保有其文化價值亦是種增值

發表於 July 20, 2011 05:56 PM

這窩臉上有三條線的戴勝實在太可愛啦!

齊媽 發表於 July 19, 2011 11:50 AM

諒媽,
不用發現這麼多是最幸福的人啦
我這樣腦袋都停不下來
真的非常的困擾
我很想像妳這樣躺平就可以入睡啊
九月?
應該是候鳥飛來的11月吧

usosally,
這一窩是小戴勝
住在民宿主人家的菜園邊
老闆偷偷翻開給我看的
還好我有跟他聊到賞鳥這個話題
不然就沒機會看到了呀
超級可愛的~

mrs.turtle 發表於 July 18, 2011 11:15 PM

看來我的電腦也太慢了
現在認識他們啦!

usosally 發表於 July 17, 2011 10:47 PM

那四隻鳥還是雞的
是住在什麼地方呀

usosally 發表於 July 17, 2011 10:37 PM

哇好深喔...
走一趟金門你也能想這麼多
真不是蓋滴
你怎麼能把十年前和現在的旅遊做一個比較
然後就想出這麼多東西
夫人果真是夫人
我十年前走過的布里斯本和現在我也沒發現他們有什麼不一樣
十年前的倫敦有什麼不一樣
十年前的美國有什麼不一樣
糟糕我都沒在思考....
很可惜我沒跟到
老p說九月還要去一次
這我一定要跟到

諒媽 發表於 July 17, 2011 06:51 PM

Esther,
祈禱這些大工程能緩慢的變化
不要像人心這麼的急促

Adonis,
目前似乎就只能這樣

mark,
這是一窩還沒離巢的雛鳥

mrs.turtle 發表於 July 17, 2011 05:02 PM

戴勝們是怎麼了?
能這麼近拍,真有趣!!

mark 發表於 July 17, 2011 04:03 PM

好新,怎麼都是這樣…

Adonis 發表於 July 17, 2011 01:48 PM

從注意開始看到減速.
從興奮到感觸漸漸湧上心頭.
感受得到時光總是用無聲的姿態在進行他的大工程.

Esther 發表於 July 17, 2011 01:34 PM
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