June 06, 2014

石「龜」、「龜」佛山、「龜」仔港

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端午那天,南下嘉義,天氣好到一個不像話,M1南下的風景,隨著藍天中跳躍的白雲,顯得輕快飛揚,這是屬於夏日限定的天空,很有南國度假的風情,感覺自己躺在墾丁的白沙灘上了。

白雲的造型因為風不斷的變換,窗外就像電影畫面一幕幕,也不停的快速變換,左側的中央山脈則是整個清晰可見。

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為了拍照,途中下了大林交流道,可惜下了高速公路的高度,就看不見最遠最高的那層山了。索性就在石龜一帶的村落繞了一圈,石龜無人招呼站、石龜的稻田、石龜的街坊,還有找都找不完的村落周圍的五營將軍,這一帶的五營特色,就是後方都有棵大樹坐鎮。想起了去年暑假在潭仔墘每天經過的南營和隔壁村的北營,頗有對峙的畫面,激起了我對雲嘉南地區五營將軍的興趣。

在中部長大的記憶中,沒見過村莊四周圍有東西南北中營鎮守捍衛的畫面,不知道這樣的信仰是不是有地域之分,嘉義的每個庄頭,至今仍保存著這樣的信仰傳統,小小的廟宇建築,裡面其實沒有神像,多半是畫像,甚至只有插了令旗,固守在村莊的四個方位,護衛著村裡的人與地,感覺就像金門的風獅爺。

記得好幾趟的金門行,都是藉著找尋各個聚落的風獅爺,才有機會去了一些偏僻隱密的角落,過程中也才有機會在不同聚落裡轉來轉去,非常有意思的旅行經驗。

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吃完午飯,睡了個好熱的午覺,感覺地表都快沸騰了,窗外的白雲就像剉冰那般高高堆起,只能等到傍晚再出門閒晃,決定就繼續來找另外兩隻「龜」和永遠找不完的五營將軍。

沿著台19南下一小段,左轉170縣道,循線找到了「龜佛山」,奇怪,沒有龜、沒有佛,也沒有山,這個地名還真是有意思,一個完整內聚的典型嘉南平原村莊,庄內的村民看著外地來的車,紛紛投以好奇的眼光,讓下車拍照的我,顯得唐突又囧,在「中營」旁找到了龜佛山的路標,很興奮的東拍西拍,廟旁聚集了傍晚閒聊打屁的村民,從我下車的那一刻,所有人目光緊盯著我,直到上車離開還繼續目送我們車子離開,我只能尷尬的微笑回應了。

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回程在牛挑灣教會停車,教會裡的大榕樹旁,躲著一座水泥磨石子的胖大象溜滑梯,象腹還刻有「以馬內利」的字樣,都市裡幾乎看不見這種溜滑梯了,甚麼時候開始,公園裡、學校裡的溜滑梯全變成了鮮豔醜陋統一的塑膠梯,真懷念兒時小學校園裡穩固堅實的溜滑梯。

沿著農會倉庫群旁的小路轉進去,村莊邊緣有口大埤塘,經過了改造整理,變成「牛挑灣生態園區」,好摟的名字,其實田野風景還不錯,還能登高望遠,拜春夏之際的大雨灌溉,讓周圍的雜草大樹綠意盎然生機勃勃,但也幾乎走不過環湖步道。有水的地方就有風,有風也就感覺涼快許多,只可惜一旁養雞場的雞糞臭,實在掃興,湖邊涼亭又是一群傍晚打屁聊天的老人家們。鄉間的生活步調,真是讓只能被困在都市裡的我羨慕到下巴都要掉了,連要在住家附近找個可以不用開車就能好好散個步的地點和路段,都困難重重。

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接著,繼續往170縣道的西邊行去,右轉161縣道,下一個目標「龜仔港」,又是個也沒有龜、也沒有港的小村莊,繞了村莊的前前後後,都沒找到一塊明顯的路牌,只有在新名稱順安里的下方標示了小小字的龜仔港,顯然這個村子的人不太喜愛這個舊地名?! 倒是家家戶戶的門牌都還是這個名稱,很安靜的村莊,有個戴著耳機騎單車兜風的中年婦女、有正在曝曬的大紅辣椒、有被大樹整個包覆的古厝,陰森的讓人不敢直視。

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沿著161縣道南下,過了鄉鎮的界線,從朴子跨到布袋,來到了另一個我想了很久卻一直沒到過的小村莊「考試潭」,不知道村莊裡的子弟,是否真的都很會考試,這個名稱想起來壓力就斗大。剛剛沿途也不停的在尋找各個村莊的五營將軍,但一來到考試潭,我倆大叫一聲「哇!!!」趕緊路邊停車,村莊口迎賓的這一幕,實在太吸睛,當然有我要找的「考試潭」三個字,後方則是一處傳統三合院落為背景,比考試潭三個字更吸引我的則是北營將軍。

第一次見到彈頭型的五營將軍,大部分村莊的五營將軍都是預鑄的小廟宇造型,造型差異不大,而考試潭的彈頭五營,用磚砌成,糊上水泥,上面的字樣是刻畫的,隨著時間久遠,模模糊糊,尺寸也比一般的五營廟更迷你,這下更讓我對尋找五營的興致越來越高了。

我猜過往個村莊的五營應該都像這樣各有特色,隨著時代推移至今,集資買一座預鑄的小廟,方便許多,也就不復見各自的特色了。繼續拍考試潭的南營將軍時,161縣道上出現了一位身穿全白色蕾絲裝,紮著馬尾,踩著一部阿公巡田水的古早腳踏車,只是她的腳踏車整部漆成了亮紅色,跟周遭的農田三合院實在太對比,一派優雅地正在農路上放風,好詭譎。

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幾乎夕陽黃昏了,沿著161轉172,經過了遊客不多也不少的漁市,來到布袋港。十幾年沒來過布袋,印象已經模模糊糊,傍晚時分,連續四艘從馬公開回來的大船,載著端午假期去澎湖玩耍的遊客歸來,在沒有絢爛夕陽的港邊,也結束了我們的端午連假。

回程在7-11的布鹽門市借了WC,這可真是個用心妝點的特色門市。

ps.端午隔天的大豪雨,希望沒有毀了農民辛苦一季的稻作,老天爺就是愛捉弄善良的人啊。

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由 mrs.turtle 發表於 June 6, 2014 08:56 PM
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chanyuan 發表於 September 14, 2017 12:40 PM

周先生您好!

好感動啊~
也很開心不列顛旅人能在你們的旅途中幫上點小忙
被您這麼一提
又懷念起英國的一切了

非常謝謝您這麼的支持和演講邀約
我確認暑假行程後
會再以e-mail與您聯繫
請稍後~

也謝謝您對於台灣風土民情的提點
我會努力去巡查探訪一番的

mrs.turtle 發表於 June 14, 2014 08:27 PM

德朵夫人..妳好!
妳有興趣追尋南部這些近海的聚落民情與信仰..也許從明鄭時代以降去思考..會比較知其大局而演變至今零落的風貌..還有當年諸多平埔族即由此被時勢所迫與移台的漢軍與漢民混居..有些民情比較特別..例如農家鄉民的警覺性也比北部為高..幾年前我們曾做菱角鳥/水雉/的觀察記錄..經常在鹽水柳營下營佳里一帶走訪..經由前輩的告知也才有恍然大悟的明白!
退休後..我們曾在英國.愛爾蘭.申根以免簽方式居遊3年..在英國我們以妳的"不列顛旅人"為依歸..有較深度的在山峰區+湖區遊覽健行..有妳的書英文不好的我們才對英國這些特殊的景區文化..有所認識!例如飾井節.查茲渥斯的賽馬...我們都去拍照觀察..
我們8月還要去德國.英國..不知妳是否可以讓我們邀請在7月底做一場演講..分享妳的"不列顛旅-情"? 我們在台北市圖三民分館的影像展上..很誠摯卻也無助的在此留言..希望妳會看到!謝謝..我的手機是 0911-163498 電郵ajoe5488@yahoo.com.tw 周耀爵

Ajoe 發表於 June 14, 2014 11:13 AM

德朵夫人..妳好!
妳有興趣追尋南部這些近海的聚落民情與信仰..也許從明鄭時代以降去思考..會比較知其大局而演變至今零落的風貌..還有當年諸多平埔族即由此被時勢所迫與移台的漢軍與漢民混居..有些民情比較特別..例如農家鄉民的警覺性也比北部為高..幾年前我們曾做菱角鳥/水雉/的觀察記錄..經常在鹽水柳營下營佳里一帶走訪..經由前輩的告知也才有恍然大悟的明白!
退休後..我們曾在英國.愛爾蘭.申根以免簽方式居遊3年..在英國我們以妳的"不列顛旅人"為依歸..有較深度的在山峰區+湖區遊覽健行..有妳的書英文不好的我們才對英國這些特殊的景區文化..有所認識!例如飾井節.查茲渥斯的賽馬...我們都去拍照觀察..
我們8月還要去德國.英國..不知妳是否可以讓我們邀請在7月底做一場演講..分享妳的"不列顛旅-情"? 我們在台北市圖三民分館的影像展上..很誠摯卻也無助的在此留言..希望妳會看到!謝謝..我的手機是 0911-163498 電郵ajoe5488@yahoo.com.tw 周耀爵

Ajoe 發表於 June 14, 2014 11:13 AM

德朵夫人..妳好!
妳有興趣追尋南部這些近海的聚落民情與信仰..也許從明鄭時代以降去思考..會比較知其大局而演變至今零落的風貌..還有當年諸多平埔族即由此被時勢所迫與移台的漢軍與漢民混居..有些民情比較特別..例如農家鄉民的警覺性也比北部為高..幾年前我們曾做菱角鳥/水雉/的觀察記錄..經常在鹽水柳營下營佳里一帶走訪..經由前輩的告知也才有恍然大悟的明白!
退休後..我們曾在英國.愛爾蘭.申根以免簽方式居遊3年..在英國我們以妳的"不列顛旅人"為依歸..有較深度的在山峰區+湖區遊覽健行..有妳的書英文不好的我們才對英國這些特殊的景區文化..有所認識!例如飾井節.查茲渥斯的賽馬...我們都去拍照觀察..
我們8月還要去德國.英國..不知妳是否可以讓我們邀請在7月底做一場演講..分享妳的"不列顛旅-情"? 我們在台北市圖三民分館的影像展上..很誠摯卻也無助的在此留言..希望妳會看到!謝謝..我的手機是 0911-163498 電郵ajoe5488@yahoo.com.tw 周耀爵

Ajoe 發表於 June 14, 2014 11:08 AM
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