August 09, 2015

酋長,蘇迪勒

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今日是立秋,是好不容易出現在週末的父親節,是莫拉克八八風災六週年,也是13號颱風蘇迪勒登陸的日子。

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Day2

肥胖又執拗的蘇迪勒,沒有橫衝直撞,按著預報的既定路徑,穩當猛力的直撲而來,清晨4點40分在花蓮秀林登陸,遇上中央山脈的高峻地形後,稍微被撞暈了,上午11點就從雲林台西出海,在台灣海峽上稍微扭了一下腰,又照著它原來的路徑揚長而去。留下了全台灣400萬戶大規模停電,數量龐大的路樹折斷,在機場動彈不得的10幾萬旅客和辛苦待命的機組員,各類詭譎的大小不一的災害,和各家電視台快累爆了的氣象主播們。題外話,播報颱風新聞可以別再學CNN那一套嗎?惟恐天下不亂的恐嚇式報導和像是演舞台劇般的誇張報導,看了就不舒服。

去年幾乎沒感受到颱風的威力,所以想起了前年在潭墘的嘉鄉築藝2.0,十天的活動遇上了兩個颱風康納和玉兔,也真是夠嗆的了。這兩天老P去嘉義市青年公共事務培力營的講課和工作坊,又遇到蘇迪勒也來參加,讓今日原訂的鰲鼓溼地行程完全去不了,聽說學員們被狂風暴雨給關在青旅的地下室進行討論,很掃興,暑假期間的活動就是有颱風這個很大的不確定因子,算是老天爺的另一項考驗。

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昨夜,颱風登陸前,相信全台灣的人都沒睡好吧,好久沒有遇過這樣的風雨了,尤其睡在嘉義的鄰路透天房子裡,不像大樓住家有氣密窗,玻璃窗簡直快被風給吹破了,好不容易淺淺的睡著了,一下被外面風聲吵醒,一下又被風吹起的雜物碰撞聲嚇醒,每醒來一次就看著時間,怎麼才兩點,怎麼才三點,好不容易捱到了六點,大概颱風眼靠近,風雨暫歇,才真正睡著,呼。老P笑說車子一整年都放在地下室的車位裡,竟然在最危險的颱風夜停在路邊,還好,早上只發現保險桿被散落物稍微碰撞,無大礙。半夜的小插曲,昨日中午在工作坊吃了一個雞肉飯便當的老P,颱風夜一直跑廁所,拉了好幾次,只有吃三口的我,竟也拉了兩次,隔天才發現學員們有五位送醫打點滴了,嚇。

下午三點的工作坊在嘉義市,雖然全國都停班停課,但是文化局的營隊沒辦法中途喊停,學員們在旅館裡很安全,但是老師就得冒著危險出門了,開上82號東西向,我的天啊,簡直像是在開障礙賽闖關,幾隻羽毛被淋得溼答答的斑鳩,幾乎躺在路上飛不起來,不知道野生動物們,在這樣惡劣的天候中,是怎麼度過的。颱風出境後,換吹西南風,風雨又逐漸增強,開在幾乎沒車的快速道路上,心裡其實忐忑不安。嘉義市幾乎沒有店家營業,只有在風雨中搖搖欲墜的招牌和全倒半倒的路樹,老P把我丟在一家甜點店後,就去他的工作坊了。

真的很感激這時候仍開門營業的芙甜點店,讓我可以在狂風驟雨中安心等待兩個半小時,否則就得去沒有靈魂的麥當勞了。我點了一塊檸檬塔、喝了一壺法式伯爵,看著落地窗外霧白的風雨街道。店裡原本的兩桌客人一會兒就走了,一直到關店,就只有我一個人,熱情的老闆還多請我吃了一塊蛋糕,原來,今天應該放颱風假的,但是因為不少人訂了父親節蛋糕,還是得來開店讓客人取貨,只見店員們忙著電話聯繫訂貨客人的取貨時間。

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坐在店裡看著窗外,雨讓風被看得見,隨著風一波一波,一下一團一團,一下一絲一絲,這時候的雨不是直直下,而是斜著下,或是橫著下,紅綠燈、招牌在風雨中不斷的搖搖晃晃。傍晚五點多,風雨依舊強大,天色越來越昏暗,店裡偶爾出現了冒雨來拿蛋糕的客人,開店營業,不管是甚麼類型的店,都是一件辛苦的事,幾乎天天被綁在店裡,不能隨興的要開不開。芙甜點的口味細膩不甜膩,應該買一條蛋糕捲回來試試的,昨天的森咖啡和今天的芙甜點,如果結合在一起,那就完美了。

強烈的風雨洗滌沖刷大地,在自然生態中是必要之惡,就像是森林大火那樣,有一種清除作用,只是,地球表面上的人類和他們衍生出來的財產,絕不允許任何損失,所以得嚴加防範。

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5點40分,風雨仍強,活動結束後的老P繞過來載我,甜點店也準備打烊了,因為根本沒有客人嘛。市區裡的店家幾乎都沒開,晚餐到底該怎麼辦,風雨正大也不好開上高速公路北上,決定繞到林聰明砂鍋魚頭碰碰運氣,看到風雨中開店的燈光,眼淚都快掉下來了,趕緊路邊隨意停車,先進去飽餐一頓再說,坐在店裡吃東西,不時還能感受到飄進來的風雨。一邊持續關注著颱風眼怎麼不趕快遠離,一直在外海逗留,讓我們騎虎難下。

吃完後,又再等了一會兒,風雨有變小的趨勢,決定出發吧。往高速公路的北港路上,被封鎖線封了兩段,因為路樹橫躺在車道上,車子閃著黃燈在沒有任何警示的逆向車道上行駛,而且路燈全熄了。路旁麥當勞和肯德基的得來速,加起來應該有40部車子正在排隊,颱風夜啊。

駛上了路燈也熄滅的嘉義交流道,國道上沒幾部車,好奇異的景象,外面溫度只有22.5度C。龜速的以80-90公里時速從嘉義北上,仍可感受到陣陣風勢,整條漆黑的國道上,在反方向的南下車道的黃色大燈中,雨水被風狂吹的好像蒸氣白煙,雖是黑夜,仍可察覺是黑壓低沉的烏雲壟罩,顯然我們還在蘇迪勒600公里的暴風直徑裡。

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Day1

時間回到前一天,颱風來襲前,天氣異常悶熱,6日晚間中央氣象局早已發布海上陸上颱風警報,全台只有宜蘭、花蓮停班停課,嘉義上午的天氣確實是晴朗炎熱無風無雨。

一早六點半就起床,很愛睏的9點鐘已經出現在嘉義市文化中心,老P早上要講一堂課,還禁止我去旁聽,我只好自己去附近晃晃等候,其實,我是為了隔天的鰲鼓濕地才一起來的,萬萬沒想到,蘇迪勒來攪局。我在複製的很假裝的檜町,等著森咖啡十點開門營業。

森咖啡相較於園區裡俗味的民俗文化村氣氛,算是低調的品味,很不好發現的招牌,幾乎被隔壁近藤教練家給淹沒了,一拉開木門,裡面的空間簡單雅致,沒有奇怪多餘矯情浮濫的裝飾,只有簡單的木桌椅和三位煮咖啡的年輕人,以及一位比我還早進來的阿伯,我點了一杯阿里山咖啡,一會兒,手沖黑咖啡用純白的咖啡杯端來,光用看的就知道應該不錯,喝下一口也的確好喝。

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我坐在陽光比較烈的東側,日式的大面落地格子窗,窗外的綠意映照進來,是個書寫和閱讀的角落,我愉快地坐在那裡近兩個小時。後來陸續進來的客人,點的都是最夯的冰鑽咖啡和宇治金時刨冰。空間的營造,確實能改變人的行為,在這家小小的森咖啡裡,進門來的客人們都保持著安安靜靜,和外面園區的氣氛截然不同。這就是我之前說,芙甜點的甜點如果能加上森咖啡的咖啡,就完美了。

前兩天的小強三兄弟墾丁行的疲累感,就在安靜的喝下這杯阿里山咖啡後,感覺好一點了。這些天不斷的整理行李、收拾行李、洗曬衣服,竟也會疲乏,昨天傍晚在中港路看到一位嬌小的拾荒老婦,在路邊翻找垃圾桶,然後強迫症似的精細的分類著她滿車的回收物,突然驚恐的感覺,我好像也快變成那樣了。

這些年來,每每滿懷著希望到訪某地,但是台灣的東西南北各個角落,不管是城市,不管是鄉間,旅遊變得越來越沒品質,住宿只有俗不可耐的昂貴非法民宿,吃更是只有漂亮擺盤的不像食物的食物,稍微有一點點品質的,就得所費不貲,品質指的不是那種沒有靈魂的高級旅館或昂貴餐館,而是有溫度有人味的,幾乎已經找不著了。可是,大家似乎都消費的很開心,而且越沒有品質的地方,大家越趨之若鶩。所到之處,不管假日非假日,只要有一點點知名度的地方,滿滿的人,而且不僅台灣人,現在中國人、香港人也來加速我們的沒品質。

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於是,我越來越宅了,好慘。

我在森咖啡裡讀著隨身帶的小書《純旅行》,其中有段導言文字,讓心情漸漸平靜:「而最重要的是,閒遊,或許該說是『真正的』旅遊,喚醒了我們內心的詩人和哲人。我們全都是哲學家,只是現代生活眾多的憂慮讓我們忘卻了這個事實,我們追求讓我們分心的事物以擺脫痛苦,而不敢正面迎上前去。如我的朋友潘尼所說的,你吃了止痛藥,疼痛依舊在,只是你感覺不到。我們全都以酒精、藥物、情愛、紙牌、不同的癮頭、假日、奢華的飯店和旅行『經驗』,在我們的痛處敷上石膏,為的是讓我們承受它。可是閒遊者卻拒絕使用這樣的狗皮藥膏,而展開探索靈魂的旅程,就算他在旅程裡看到地獄,他也欣然接受,因為他同樣也會看到天堂。而在漫長而艱難的攀爬之後,景色將會是無與倫比。」

想在這個島上當個閒遊者,似乎有點困難。

由 mrs.turtle 發表於 August 9, 2015 03:56 PM
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wanglili 發表於 July 25, 2017 10:03 AM

This also is a sign of a genuine online shop and a web address may be available to find the opticians they are teamed with.

ray ban black wayfarer 發表於 July 11, 2017 07:01 PM

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nike huarache 發表於 October 9, 2016 07:47 AM

Diego,
挖咧~那是香蕉蛋糕啊

mrs.turtle 發表於 September 15, 2015 12:35 PM

先不管颱風了
妳那個夾了好幾層的三明治是夾綠豆嗎

Diego 發表於 August 15, 2015 05:12 PM

Adonis,
尤其是依開店沒有客人時
氣氛真的很不錯~

Paochen,
哇~真的好久不見啊
還住在德國嗎?!
台灣近年來的改變真的是讓人很惶恐
不管甚麼事都喜歡一窩蜂
開店也一窩蜂
當然倒店也一窩蜂
沒有自己的拼命模仿
不知甚麼時候我們才能發自內心的真誠的開始面對自己和生活
希望我的心不要被這些惱人的事物一直磨磨磨~磨光了

mrs.turtle 發表於 August 14, 2015 12:38 AM

Hallo Turtle, wie geht's dir? 很久沒來這打聲招呼呀

妳這些年走訪台灣各地的感觸,某種程度上也說出了我的心聲...

每次回台灣與家人到不同地方度短假,就強烈懷念起從前來的時候

雖然過去可能在記憶中被美化了,可為什麼不能至少有一些地方

讓人不要那麼失望呢? :(

Paochen 發表於 August 11, 2015 04:39 AM

真好,又看到夫人的文章。
好有氛圍的一家店。

Adonis 發表於 August 11, 2015 12:58 AM
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